GrandPrix34 Posted August 31, 2003 Report Share Posted August 31, 2003 i searched the threads, but none was wat i was looking for... at 12 coming home, my car just died at 50...headlights, radio, etc working fine, nothing dimming... so i pulled the car over and shut everything off...then i tried to start her up and the car turns as though it just needs a kick in the kanakers to get it going but nothing...the car just turns and turns as long as you can hold the key.... cant be the starter cuz the car is turning fine...i'm thinking either fuel pump though i can kinda smell that rotten egg smell, so im thinking something with the ignition...i was about to curse the alternator but the volts were at 13 and the car just died.... HELP! I WORK AT 2 PM AND THE CAR IS AT SOME REMOTE UNBUILDED BANK!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted August 31, 2003 Report Share Posted August 31, 2003 I would tow the car first to your home that way you have all the tools and time to work with your car and not to mention safety. Narrow down the problem. Use a spark tester and connect it to the spark plug wires to see if you have sparks. (narrows down to ignition problem). Remove your intake air duct and spay a starting fluid in the throttle body while trying to start it. (narrows down to fuel problem). If you are doing it yourself then get a remote starter switch and make sure that ignition key is in the Bulb Test position just before the start position and then connect the remote starter switch to the starter. Get a fuel pressure gauge to test for fuel pressure. Check the fuses in the engine bay and check the fuses inside the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegp Posted August 31, 2003 Report Share Posted August 31, 2003 at 12 coming home, my car just died at 50...headlights, radio, etc working fine, nothing dimming... so i pulled the car over and shut everything off...then i tried to start her up and the car turns as though it just needs a kick in the kanakers to get it going but nothing...the car just turns and turns as long as you can hold the key.... Mine did almost the same thing. On my way to work going 65 mph, engine just shut off. Luckily I was a 1/4 mile away from an exit, so I just coasted off the highway (blew through stop sign) to a restaurant. The car wouldn't start. The next day, It started right up, but I had it towed anyway. It would start as long as the engine was cold. As soon as the engine would heat up, it would die again and not start. It was the crank position sensor. Test for spark. If none, it could be that or maybe the module. The crank position sensor is cheap (<$20), but a bitch to get at. The module is expensive (dealer - $200; aftermarket - $90; I think). You can take yours to an auto parts store and they can test it. If you have spark, test for fuel pressure. You can usually rent or borrow a guage from an auto parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted August 31, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2003 wat is this magical "module" you speak of? j/k were is the module and wat is it? IS it were the coils connect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted August 31, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2003 well i went wit my dad to check out the car... using the screwdriver, we found out there is sparks...second, all fuses are good. My dad mentioned something about a fuel pump reset switch or relay reset switch, or something like that, anyone know wat he is talking about? Second, on the electrical panel, we checked all the relays out....turns out the relays for both fans, ac condenser and fuel pump are all EXACTLY the same...they all have the same printing on them and they all follow the same electrical pattern.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted August 31, 2003 Report Share Posted August 31, 2003 wat is this magical "module" you speak of? j/kwere is the module and wat is it? IS it were the coils connect The Ignition Module (located underneath the front exhaust manifold) conrtols all spark timing. Follow your plug wires to it, it's easy to find; hard to remove from the block. Curious: secondary timing belt still intacted right? :shock: - Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted August 31, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2003 so i got "pulled" home...:-( :-( VVVVVVVVVVVVVV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted August 31, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2003 it wasnt getting any current but before we pulled her home, it was just 'barely' getting there...my dad was testing it using that thing in the picture (mulimeter??) p.s. - and NO Shawn's not my dad, i borrowed his pic to show wat i am talking about... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted September 1, 2003 Report Share Posted September 1, 2003 The picture shows empty where the arrows describes about the fuel pump relay. I thought that the fuel pump relay and fuel pump fuse is on the other side strut tower (left front strut tower which is next to the battery positive terminal). First, turn the ignition switch to ON (don't start) and find out if you hear the fuel pump is actually working (a brief whirring noise). If you don't hear a whirring noise then goto step A. If you hear a whirring noise then go to step B. Step A: Turn off the Ignition Swith to OFF. Check the fuel pump fuse and replace it if it is blown and if the fuel pump fuse is fine then apply a 12 volt to the fuel pump test terminal and listen for the fuel pump running. (The fuel pump test terminal is located just below the fuel pump relay/fuse and it just dangling by itself). If the pump makes noise (whirring noise) then check the fuel pump relay. (Just replace it with the Secondary AC relay terporarily to test it). If the pump does not makes noise (whirring noise) then there is an open circuit between the relay and fuel pump. Get a fuel pressure gauge and connect it at the schrader valve on the fuel rails and turn the Ignition switch to ON. The fuel pressure should hold stead and the reading should be between 40 to 47 PSI. If the fuel pressure is not within the specified specs then try replacing the fuel filter first and see if that works then if not then probably it is the fuel pump itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted September 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2003 Curious: secondary timing belt still intacted right? well, guess wat...it IS still intact, but as it turns out, it looks as though the tensior took a shit or something cuz the belt is frayed to shit but its still all in one piece... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandPrix34 Posted September 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2003 looks like i found a big ass piece of the problem... THE TIMING BELT!! everybody, thanks a whole lot for all your input and support!! Slade, thanks cuz as it turns out, the fuel pump relay ALSO took a shit cuz we can now hear the fuel pump working by switching relays....the prob is sometimes it gets current and soemtimes it doesnt so somewere along the electrical aspects of the fuel delivery sytem, a circuit is heating up and remaing open or something... grrr to be honest wit you guys, im actually very excite about this!! When i saw the belt torn to shit i thought FUCK YEAH, 13* retard!!! Thing is, my dad is probably gonna wanna take it to the mechanic....so how can i tell the mechanic to change the timing to 13* retard.... Just in case your wondering, i am ALL UP for the challenge of changing this baby, matter fact, i'll even WALK to autozone and buy all the stuff i need, but my dad really does like the car so he wants a "professional" to do it....anyone wanna fly down here and give me a hand :-) j/k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted September 1, 2003 Report Share Posted September 1, 2003 THE TIMING BELT!! everybody, thanks a whole lot for all your input and support!! Slade, thanks cuz as it turns out, the fuel pump relay ALSO took a shit cuz we can now hear the fuel pump working by switching relays....the prob is sometimes it gets current and soemtimes it doesnt so somewere along the electrical aspects of the fuel delivery sytem, a circuit is heating up and remaing open or something... I KNEW IT! :shock: Sorry to hear that... Glad to hear you have a positive attitude about it. Let us know how it turns out! - Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.