Addicted To Boost Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 I just jumped my ALDL port on my 91 and I noticed that the car is setting a code 66. What is it? The car wasn't setting a Check Engine light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 My Corsica gave a code 66 once...Never did figure it out and it never came back. A/C pressure sensor circuit. As I recall, your A/C doesn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 That is correct. I guess I'll start working on the A/C next. Are there any known common places that these A/C systems leak? The P/O of this car said the A/C worked great and stopped working one day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Check to see if you have anything in the system first. The condensers and compressor are the most likely culprits for leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 I verified that the compressor does indeed work if you pull the relay and jump the pins. Are the UV dyes you can buy for the A/C system at auto parts stores any good? I don't want to ruin anything. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 GM is putting them in new cars...So no, they won't ruin anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 GM is putting them in new cars...So no, they won't ruin anything. Just cause GM is putting them in new cars doesn't mean it isn't harmful... LOLOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 True, but generally they are not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 I pulled off the low side cap and pressed on the schrader valve, yes there is a small amount of pressure, but not much.. so the leak has to be pretty small. Is there somewhere on the compressor itself where they like to leak, or just the O-rings on the A/C lines connecting to the compressor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtwmechanic Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 common for older a/c to leak at the low and high pressure valves, but i agree with everyone else, pressure the system with some dye in it and start looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Theres still R-12 in the system though. The dyes I looked at had R-134A mixed with them. What can I use here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern8tion9l Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 drain the r12 out and fill it back up with r134a. it's cheap enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtwmechanic Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 yeah alot cheaper than r-12, i would go ahead and switch it over to 134a. there was a recent post, like in the past few days about doing this properly, give it a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Do I need to replace any A/C components before doing so? I've heard of people replacing their condensors, evaporators, emulsion tubes, etc before converting to R-134A, but is this really necessary? Also, do I need to have the system vacuumed down before converting? I'm no A/C expert by any means, so any input is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Go through and replace all the o-rings, replace the orifice tube and get the retrofit kit and you should be golden after releasing all the R12... <---Not a green dick hippie, as you can tell. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Where are the o-rings in this system? Just the ones on the compressor and the ones on the firewall? Also, where is the orifice tube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Where are the o-rings in this system? Just the ones on the compressor and the ones on the firewall? Also, where is the orifice tube? There's o-rings at every connection. The ones at the compressor should be okay. The condenser, accumulator, evaporator... I'll have to look as to where the o-tube is. It;s only .99 cents, so cheap enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Awesome. I just want to make sure I hit everything while I have it apart. Will I need to have the system vacuumed down before I charge it with oil and refrigerant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Most people do...I didn't when I did this to my Blazer...And when I charged the A/C, it got down to 38* at the vents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Vacuuming the system boils out any moisture that is caught in the system. If there is any moisture present when the A/C is working it could freeze up and you'll lose efficency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Can I do it myself with a hand-operated vacuum pump, or do I need to bring it somewhere that has the machine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Can I do it myself with a hand-operated vacuum pump, or do I need to bring it somewhere that has the machine? I don't know. I've never done it with a hand pump. I assume if you have a way to hook the vacuum pump to the low side port fitting it should work after a bunch of pumps lol.. I would personally retrofit it and take it to have it recharged. Our machine at work can fill the system to within .01lbs of the proper capacity..I know when using R134A in a R12 system there is some formula to work the proper amount to put back in..it's either less or more (I'm thinking less) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Where is the orifice tube on these cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtwmechanic Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 if you will jump the a/c compressor it will literally suck the 134 in the system, you should read the A/C self service post in the general category Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 I've done it on my TGP already, so I know how to recharge it. Where is the orifice tube on these cars? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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