New Cam Hold Down tools?

[fleetwoodguy79]

Was reading on 60degreev6.com about some new cam tools that are supposedly being made to make the alternate cam timing proceedure much easier. Are these available yet? What is the easiest way of measuring the 13* retard if these arent yet available? Thanks!

[kiwi133]

Don't know how useful this is but there are 30 teeth on the cogs so every tooth is 12 degrees. Maybe you could reset your tensioner and just jump the exaust cams over one, takeing care not to let any thing else move.

That should be pretty easy.

[Vegeta]

I need to edit that, because the company that was making them decided to make 1 and not sell them to anyone else. I wouldn't jump it over a tooth, cause if that is your only strategy, you are in for a hard time.

[fleetwoodguy79]

Well thats pretty lame of that company. Are they just planning on selling it themselves? Wasn't it your design? Hmm, maybe I could make my own... how did you do it? Thanks for the reply Ben.

[toastemcutlass]

they tell you on that site how to make your own tool and it works great i have used mine twice so far, once to retard the exhaust cam and just last week when i did the head gaskets

[toastemcutlass]

The specs for my home made tools = 1/2" x 1/2" x 6" key stock with 5/16" hole in center. Bolts are M8 x 1.25 x 50mm, two washers are needed on each. Sorry about the dark pics, flash was not working for some reason.

 

 

 

 

this is how i made mine, you get the key stock from ace hardware and use number eight bolts, its really easy.

 

 

 

as for the exhaust timing

 

 

doing the exhaust timing goes like this

 

first get the number two cylinder to tdc and put the cam tool on( you will know your at tdc when the make on the crankshaft lines up with the mark on the motor) and tighten down(not too tight or youll bend the tool) then get a, i beleive 15mm socket and break the cog bolts loose and tap the insides of them with a hammer to disengage them.

 

then turn motor over bye hand( socket wrench on crank shaft) clock wise all the way around until the flat side on the cams are facing up, this is tdc for cylinder #1

 

put other tool on the back cams and break them loose and tap with hammer

 

next move crank shaft clockwise until the crankshaft mark lines up with the 13 degree mark

 

there you take off the cam hold down tool and tighten the exhaust cam

 

turn counter clock wise till the tdc and tighten the intake cam

 

next keep turning counter clock wise all the way to the 13 degree mark, take off the cam hold down tool on the front cams and thighten the exhaust cam

 

finally go back to tdc and tighten the intake cam.

 

Sorry i wrote so much but hopefully it helpes better then 60 degrees disciption.

[Vegeta]

I don't start on the front, so are you sure the number 2 cylinder is at TDC for the cam flats up on the front bank? I would have thought you would want it to be the number 4 piston, since its the other piston at TDC with the number 1 piston.

 

I didnt design the hold down, I just came up with the timing with my friend jon. I saw his design and it is super simple. Its a flat bar with a 6.5 degree angle cut out of the one side. You need 2 made, specific to each bank to make it work (or it will advance 13 degrees on the other bank).

 

I need to measure this small block nico gave me. Its bad ass and allows to measure the cams true flat with any timing. Not as fast as the bar but useful for tuning modded engines to different timing.

[GrandPrix34]

ok, so how do i describe all that to the mechanic?

 

T-belt needs to be changed since it messed up....how can i describe to the mechanic the procdure???

[toastemcutlass]

i think its the #2 cylinder, its the one all the way to the left when your looking at it.

 

i know this way works so thats the way i told you, why dont you want to start at the front cams?

 

incase you where wondering about the gains, my car runs in 90 degree weather like it does or better then it does in 40 degree weather. which is good for me cause my car was a dog on hot days.