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Now what the hell is wrong... Holy %#@^%$#@%@%^@%^ It runs!


meltboy1

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89 GP 5spd

I know some of you know my situation, but as a refresher, I pulled the motor and tranny to do the clutch job and TO bearing, and the first time I messed up and bent the clutch fork.

 

I got the fork bent back and reinstalled it

 

So I dropped the motor and tranny back in today and everything seemed to be ok, I started it up and I can't shift into gears.. If i try to start it in gear with the clutch pushed the car starts to move as if I am in gear with no clutch, and when I start in neutral and push in the clutch, I can't shift into gears at all, it's almost as if the clutch isn't working. I don't know what I could have done wrong this time, it just doesn't make sense, what could I have done wrong?

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for some reason the pressure plate isn't releasing the clutch disk. can you have someone push in the clutch pedal while you look at what is going on in the bell housing through the inspection plate. car does not need to be running to do this

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Ok I can do that tomorrow, what exactly would I be looking for?

 

Also I was hearing a clicking sound from the tranny that sounded similar to what it sounded like before I even did any work to it, like... well this was my pressure plate before the job...

 

width=800 height=533http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/Meltboy1/Grand%20Prix/Tranny%20project/DSC01066.jpg[/img]

 

Ya, pretty shot which would explain why I couldn't shift and was getting all that noise, but now I don't know why I am getting the noise...

 

 

And this is what I bought....

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RACING-STAGE-2-CLUTCH-87-92-BERETTA-GT-GTU-2-8L-3-1L_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem400032177088QQitemZ400032177088QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

I crossed referenced clutch set part numbers before I bought this and they were the same on the GPs and Berettas so I figured this wouldn't be the problem, I fucked up and bought shit didn't I?...

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After reading up on a bunch of posts, I am starting to think it is my clutch slave cylinder. It seems to make sense that maybe it is not engaging fully...

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After reading up on a bunch of posts, I am starting to think it is my clutch slave cylinder. It seems to make sense that maybe it is not engaging fully...

 

That is indeed possible. When you push the clutch pedal, does it feel like it is doing something, or does it feel to easy to push?

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After reading up on a bunch of posts, I am starting to think it is my clutch slave cylinder. It seems to make sense that maybe it is not engaging fully...

 

That is indeed possible. When you push the clutch pedal, does it feel like it is doing something, or does it feel to easy to push?

 

No there is resistance, it definately feels like it is doing something, it feels just as before I had any problems. I am starting to lean towards the clutch fork was too weak after being bent and bent back and is probably just Fd, but I am trying to explor as many other options as possible before pulling the whole thing out again.

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Well, if you feel resistance, then it is definitely doing something. I think you are right in thinking it is either the fork or the slave cylinder. The slave is easy to check; you just need to make sure it is extending as far as it is supposed to. I don't know the measurement, but hopefully someone who has it can jump in.

 

If the slave is not extending fully, then your problem is hydraulics. If it is fully extending, then the issue is with the fork or t.o. / clutch /p.p. assembly.

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ya, I can't imagine I coulda messed up the pp or clutch assembly, that's all pretty straight forward, bolt up the flywheel, use the clutch alignment tool, bolt the pressure plate on 21 lbs, wiggle the alignment tool a little to make sure it's all good while tightening in a criss cross pattern and pull the tool out. I put the TO bearing on the right way this time... lol and threw it all back together.

 

Also I held on the slave while my friend pushed the clutch repeatadly and I could feel it working.

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From what you describe, it does sound as though you got it all together properly. So that would leave the fork or the hydraulics.

 

BTW, I did just go looking through my Haynes manual, and apparently the travel of the slave push rod is listed. With the pedal to the floor, you should have two inches of extension on the slave pushrod.

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ok well how do I check that, I was under the impression that I was not supposed to push the clutch pedal in while the slave is disconnected from other posts I have read?

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visual inspection bro, you should be able to diagnose this easily, and by the look of your other clutch either you ride the clutch alot or the slave cyl and or master was already going out before. slave cyl and master should be replaced at the same time to avoid major aggrevation.

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hmm... well how do I go about changing them, are they a pain? I tried searching but couldn't find a thread? Cuz it would make sense that if a bad slave caused the damage it could be why it isn't working now. I am damn close to just giving up on this car... ><

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best thing I can suggest right now is to get someone else to push the clutch while you watch the throwout action from the inspection hole and see if the slave cyl and TO fork are actually doing their jobs.

 

Don't give up, I know how frustrating getting a clutch to work right is.

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Usually if your slave cylinder is messed up you can pump the clutch several times and the symptoms will lessen or dissapear. My 91 sometimes was hard to put into first at a stop sign, but if I pumped the clutch 2 or 3 times it went into gear fine. They are alot easier to replace than pulling the motor and trans again.

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if you can do a motor swap, install a clutch, fight with the SOB for days and even weeks then changing the master and slave will be a walk in the park. but first get a helper and visually inspect it one more time!!!!!!!!

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yeah, i changed all this in my acura, but I started the other way. I saw the master was leaking (pulled the carpet back and it was wet around the rod that connected to the pedal) and so I replaced both the master and the slave. Should be easy in the GP too, from what I have seen.

 

I then had to replace my clutch cause I popped one of the springs out.

 

I'd say check to see if the master is leaking by looking for wetness by the rod inside on the firewall. If there is, the master is bad. I'd then replace both of them.

 

If I had time this week, I'd drive up and help you, but it's not looking like that is the case until atleast sunday.

 

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if you can do a motor swap, install a clutch, fight with the SOB for days and even weeks then changing the master and slave will be a walk in the park. but first get a helper and visually inspect it one more time!!!!!!!!

 

 

lol ya, I suppose you are right, and try months, I started this whole thing back in Feb... lol but with school and looking for work and getting helpers, time is the only thing that's against me. I am about to just buy my mom's old regal off her and drive that around so I can stop putting so many miles on my TGP til I get this done. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get some time in it, and thank's floyd... lol I wouldn't expect you to drive all the way up here for a total stranger anyway... :P I got people just takes time.

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Ok so I think I found the problem today, I will have to wait to post pics since I left my camera at my gf's place. But I was playin around with it again today, I and I noticed that when I got back I had no fluid at all in my clutch resevoir anymore, WTF right? So I inspect the line closely and I notice a nice little hole right before where the line hooks up to the slave where it bolts onto the tranny, my guess is that was a pinhole before allowing air into the line and with all the playing with it it made the whole bigger and noticeable. I see there is a little tiny metal ring type thing attached to the end where the line goes in, Can I pop that out and just replace the line that goes to it?

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What you should do...

find a NAPA most will make custom lines

the master and slave are held in by little roll pins that you can knock out with a small nail (after you take out the small cotter pin

 

you can buy replacement fittings from summit that allow you to attatch different line to it

 

get a general idea of how long the line ought to be, goto napa with parts, ask them to make you a custom line for it.

 

you might want to PM or otherwise contact gutless supreme (tony) or patgizz (pat) I know tony had the same thing done on his 5 speeded TSTE.

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no parts store will make that line, factory only dude. but you should be able to get a new factory replacement from a parts store brand new(comes with o-rings) for about $40-$50. if you can get a new one cheaper let me know from where. several years ago this was a GM only part. gravity bleed it first then bleed like your brakes until all the air is out. sucks cuz you'll probally need your "helper" again :lol:

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