96GPSE Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Right now I"m working on pulling the engine on my 91 GTP. I've got a few questions for ya'll... Right now I've got the engine ready to pull as far as wiring and such, just need to figure out the tranny and exhaust. 1) Where's the best/easiest place to disconnect the exhaust? Does the DP disconnect at the two bolts I see from underneath? 2) Should I pull the tranny with the engine? If so, what all needs to come off? TIA Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 need to do a little searching there bud. http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=61326.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96GPSE Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Thanks, read that, the link starts out with the guy leaving the tranny in the car. Are you suggesting that's the easiest way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtwmechanic Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 do you want the tranny to come out or stay in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96GPSE Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Don't need the tranny out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meltboy1 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Well it really didn't seem like it would have made it a lot easier if I had left the tranny attached when I pulled mine last week. It is also a PITA to align the tranny with the engine in the car, so I would say just pull the whole thing as one. It's really your preference I suppose but there are only 2 nuts for the tranny mount, at least on my 282, and a couple extra harnesses you would have to take off. I would also just disconnect at the downpipe with the 2 spring bolts there, spray em up with some liquid wrench or whatever you got before you do, they are a little tough to get out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtwmechanic Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 disconnect exaust at dp. bell housing bolts, starter, tourqe converter to flywheel bolts(plastic cover under bell housing), support tranny, engine to tranny bracket on pass side out put housing, two nuts under front of engine for motor mount. i pull these motors complete with evry thing on them kinda tight though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtwmechanic Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 right on about those exhaust bolts, but even if they break the motor will be out with exhaust manifold to remove the broke bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w-bodys_are_the_best Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 I pulled my 3.4 and 284 out in one piece through the top in my 91 Cutlass. 3.4's suck to pull out through the top, if it was an auto I probably wouldn't have attempted it. It also helped alot that I first pulled the PMIII ABS unit out beforehand. I really got hung up on the alternator during the end of it. I ended up catching it on the harness, I checked everything out and I just have to patch one purple wire. When the new one goes in, I'm going to make sure it's up out of the way if it will reach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meltboy1 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 true, it was a tight fit with the 282, I would imagine the auto would make it much more of a tighter squeeze. As said before it's up to you but it will fit attached, just may be a little tougher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96GPSE Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Hmmm I'm thinkin I'm gonna leave the tranny in. I'm not sure how to disconnect the clutch pedal. I have to throw a new accumulator on the PMIII also and it looks like I'll still have plenty of room even with the trans still in. Can anyone tell me what's up with the DP bolts? Do you just back them out from the bottom? Whats the deal with the spring? I don't get how these guys work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtwmechanic Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 just back them out from bottom. the springs gives the actual tension to hold the two together for a seal. this allows movement, like a swivle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w-bodys_are_the_best Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 On my 91, 3.4 and 284 I could not for the life of me get on those bolts enough no matter what I did. I bought a swivel which was worthless and then ended up getting more wobble extensions, but no matter what I did I couldn't get to them. I ended up cutting them with a sawsall The studs are not going to be a problem because I was planning on putting in a used motor. Now that I am using a longblock and might need the manifolds, I can always try to heat them up and try and get them out with a vise-grips, or worst case get new or used ones. I figure I am going to get new bolts and springs along with a new donut gasket when I put it back together. The only thing I haven't figured out yet is if I couldn't get on them to loosen them, how am I going to instal them. When I did my 90 Z24 cav's downpipe, I had to get new bolts and spring because the springs will lose tension over time, and wouldn't hold my new DP good enough to seal it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtwmechanic Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 it's a bitch to get on those. i put my socket on the bolt first then sqeeze my extension through to meet it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 i have my 93 international's grenaded 3.4 engine partially disassembled. i can go no further till I disconnect the downpipe bolts. but I do agree, it can be a PITA. especially since my floor jack broke, and i need to get a new one to even attempt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96GPSE Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Well I got the DP bolts all off w/o breaking. Working on disconnecting the trans right now...I've got all of the bellhousing bolts loose. How do I disconnect the flexplate???? I see all the posts on this - 3 bolts, 120 degrees apart - rotate engine to access all of them. But as I'm turning the engine I'm not seeing a single one! It looks like there are bolts threaded into the flexplate from the trans side? I can see several bolts coming through the flexplate and can feel the head on the other side, which seems opposite. Should this process be the same on my 3.4/284 combo? Pic: (Right side of photo is towards the ground) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w-bodys_are_the_best Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 If you have a 3.4/284 combo, you need not pay attention to that step. Once you get the engine to trans bolts off, they should just pull apart. All that connects a manual trans is that the input shaft splines are "slid" into the clutch splines. A flexplate is on an automatic, flywheel is on a manual, not trying to be an ass, but that's the correct term. Once you get them apart, the clutch disc and pressure plate are bolted to the flywheel. The bolts you see are probably the clutch/pressure plate bolts going into the flywheel from the other side. I say "should" pull apart because they should, I could only get my 3.4/284 about an inch apart and no further, though this was by myself with the motor/trans pulled and unstable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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