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Drivers side window removal and replacement - UPDATE: It jumps track. Need help!


theghoul

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Long story short, some idiot wanted my radio and broke my driverside glass to get it. Too bad we cant shoot thieves in Mich. Insurance gave me a check, but I want to try and do it myself. Thanks to the information from manic, I located a 97 CS coupe at parts galore (DONT TOUCH IT JEREMY! :) ) .

 

Is it a pain in the scrotum to R&I the window? Whats the procedure or best practice?

 

Thx

-Al

 

 

---

EDIT: I HATE WINDOWS! LiL' Help please!

 

I cant get this window to open and close right. It jumps out the rear track when I raise it.

 

I did the following:

  • Pinched both front and rear tracks to get a good fit
  • Adjusted the front track at the window halfway mark (pushed to the rear and tightened, see pic with yellow circles)
  • Checked for obstructions

 

It keeps jumping out when I raise it.

Also, notice the notch in towards the bottom of the rear of the window. Does this look right? Is this the right glass? (look at the pic with the red arrows)

 

 

 

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oh man does that suck at least they didnt cut the top to get in.

 

no its not too bad to change the window. i dont have a write up on it but if you have any ability with car work its basically self explanatory once you take the door panel off.

 

this wasnt much help but im sure there is a write up out there somewhere

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It's not hard. You basically end up rotating the glass down to get it on the track. Then you have to use the window switch to move the motor in the proper place.

 

BE CAREFUL NOT TO ENGAGE THE AUTO-DOWN IF YOU ENJOY HAVING AN ARM! I know it's probably not possible, but I had to do this same job on my old '89 GP and I accidently hit the auto-down, and I had my arm inside the door, and it pinched my arm. Just watch it when you're trying to put the glass on the track.

 

Take the door panel off and take it to the car wash and use their vacuum to get the glass out of the bottom.

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It's not hard. You basically end up rotating the glass down to get it on the track. Then you have to use the window switch to move the motor in the proper place.

 

BE CAREFUL NOT TO ENGAGE THE AUTO-DOWN IF YOU ENJOY HAVING AN ARM! I know it's probably not possible, but I had to do this same job on my old '89 GP and I accidently hit the auto-down, and I had my arm inside the door, and it pinched my arm. Just watch it when you're trying to put the glass on the track.

 

Take the door panel off and take it to the car wash and use their vacuum to get the glass out of the bottom.

 

Sweet. How does it connect to the track? bolts? glue?

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remove door panel,

 

remove both the front and rear window guides (the pieces bonded to the old glass), any glass on the track, and remove the old metal "roller" track that was bonded to the original glass. vacuum bottom of door at some point.

 

You don't actually have to move the window motor with the glass half way inserted.... but you should try to have the motor somewhere in the mid-range. once there, you have to insert the window with the front facing down at about a 45 degree angle, and get the roller track onto the roller on the window motor's arm. once on, carefully level the glass in the opening, then push down the the rear, while pulling up on the front to snap the window guides into their tracks.

 

Once new glass has snapped into the front and rear track, move window motor to check for operation.

 

another thing you may need to do is compress the front track where the the front window guide rides, because they tend to flex wider with time. it is basically a "C" channel, and you just need to massage it a bit, don't forget a bit of grease added to the track never hurts.

 

 

last but not least... Cap the M&#*(&#@(*)ker is the ass who did this. It's not a crime unless you get caught!

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Sweet. How does it connect to the track? bolts? glue?

 

The glass has guides bonded to the front and rear edges.

 

btw, it helps to have a power source to roll the j/y donor car's windows down, but a well placed crowbar can always bend a window motor. if you have some old phone cards or something, you can use them to help remove the j/y window by sliding them between the track and tabs.

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Awesome. Thanks guys.

 

Bad times make for desperate people I guess. I'm not too PO'd about the break-in. My insurance co actually gave me enough for an upgrade. Also, saving a few pennies on a $400 glass job helps as well.

 

Just bloody inconvenient, it is.

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Thanks guys, it went like clockwork.

 

They also dropped off a 93 lumina which we raped and pillage for fuel injectors and rails.

 

The glass was $14.00

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  • 1 month later...

remove door panel. to remove the switch plate(on a 95), pull it up at the inside edge(facing you)

remove metal trim at top of door.

remove rubber strip.

remove all traces of broken glass, the roller track, and both the front and rear guide strips that were bonded to the broken window. the best way to do this is to use two old phone cards and force them into the track on both sides of the guide strip where they have tabs to secure them to the door tracks... wiggle and force and eventually they should pop and come out.

 

Once everything is clean and ready for the install....

operate the window motor (hook the switch back up) and move it to a position of about 1/2 way down.

lower the new window in at a 45 degree angle with the front facing down.

guide the roller track on the glass onto the roller on the window regulator.

once you are certain you have the roller in the roller track(check check and double check!)... push down on the rear of the glass and pull up and the front.

 

next... move the window to the full up position first, then down. all good? reinstall everything.

 

 

other tips: the window track is a "C" channel. the front track sometimes opens up with use... you have a chance right now to reach in the door and squeeze it tighter so that it will hold the glass better.

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remove door panel. to remove the switch plate(on a 95), pull it up at the inside edge(facing you)

remove metal trim at top of door.

remove rubber strip.

remove all traces of broken glass, the roller track, and both the front and rear guide strips that were bonded to the broken window. the best way to do this is to use two old phone cards and force them into the track on both sides of the guide strip where they have tabs to secure them to the door tracks... wiggle and force and eventually they should pop and come out.

 

Once everything is clean and ready for the install....

operate the window motor (hook the switch back up) and move it to a position of about 1/2 way down.

lower the new window in at a 45 degree angle with the front facing down.

guide the roller track on the glass onto the roller on the window regulator.

once you are certain you have the roller in the roller track(check check and double check!)... push down on the rear of the glass and pull up and the front.

 

next... move the window to the full up position first, then down. all good? reinstall everything.

 

 

other tips: the window track is a "C" channel. the front track sometimes opens up with use... you have a chance right now to reach in the door and squeeze it tighter so that it will hold the glass better.

 

Yeah, followed that. It looks it still popbs out of the track. Look at pic above showing the rear guide strip (with the bump) Note there is a notch there. Does that look right?

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oh! DOH! in the first post. :lol:

 

I think you might have got a bad window. It's a possibility that pulling it may have damaged it. try getting another window.

 

btw... while officially glass doesn't interchange... I have yet to determine what makes the glass different... :willynilly: in fact... I'm gonna try something.... brb.

 

 

 

the notch is present on mine. the tab thing that hold the glass in near the top... and I measured it's thickness as 3/8ths of an inch.

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oh! DOH! in the first post. :lol:

 

I think you might have got a bad window. It's a possibility that pulling it may have damaged it. try getting another window.

 

btw... while officially glass doesn't interchange... I have yet to determine what makes the glass different... :willynilly: in fact... I'm gonna try something.... brb.

 

 

 

the notch is present on mine. the tab thing that hold the glass in near the top... and I measured it's thickness as 3/8ths of an inch.

 

So you think the glass is good?

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oh! DOH! in the first post. :lol:

 

I think you might have got a bad window. It's a possibility that pulling it may have damaged it. try getting another window.

 

btw... while officially glass doesn't interchange... I have yet to determine what makes the glass different... :willynilly: in fact... I'm gonna try something.... brb.

 

 

 

the notch is present on mine. the tab thing that hold the glass in near the top... and I measured it's thickness as 3/8ths of an inch.

 

So you think the glass is good?

uh.... not sure. How thick it your retaining tab that keeps popping out?

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oh! DOH! in the first post. :lol:

 

I think you might have got a bad window. It's a possibility that pulling it may have damaged it. try getting another window.

 

btw... while officially glass doesn't interchange... I have yet to determine what makes the glass different... :willynilly: in fact... I'm gonna try something.... brb.

 

 

 

the notch is present on mine. the tab thing that hold the glass in near the top... and I measured it's thickness as 3/8ths of an inch.

 

So you think the glass is good?

uh.... not sure. How thick it your retaining tab that keeps popping out?

 

Yeah, its about the same size as yours at the widest part. Its more of a wedge.

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wedge? I think pics are going to be the only way to get a good answer...... try some real closeups of yours from several angles...

 

 

I'll get pics of one of mine tomorrow...

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