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Oil Pressure Senders


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Posted

Is the sender that comes directly out of the oil filter housing for the idiot light on the '95 3.4?

 

Is this the same location used for the oil pressure sender on pre '95s with a full gauge cluster?

 

Thanks, Tom

Posted

Is the sender that comes directly out of the oil filter housing for the idiot light on the '95 3.4?

 

Is this the same location used for the oil pressure sender on pre '95s with a full gauge cluster?

 

Thanks, Tom

 

yes. if you are talking about the low pressure light.

 

unless you are talking about the low oil level light, which is on the pan.

Posted

Is that where you would tap into for an after market oil pressure gauge?

 

Jamie

Posted

I guess, what I'm trying to find out is, where is the oil pressure sender on the 3.4 if the car has a full gauge cluster (oil pressure gauge)?

 

Thanks again, Tom

Posted

I believe the sensor near the oil filter is the one that drives the oil pressure gauge. At least on my '92 that the one. Not 100% on the '95, but I'd suspect it to be the same.

Posted

the oil pressure sending unit(cars with the oil pressure gauge) about 2.5 inches long and gives signal to run the fuel pump and gauge. Located right near the oil filter and knock sensor, Do not get confused knock sensor is 1 wire and the oil pressure sender is 3 wire

 

the oil pressure dummy sender (for cars with just the oil pressure light and for some like the cutlass with the oil pressure gauge ) same concept as above but only 1 or so inches long and just basically just shows same pressure when running. same location as above and still has 3 wires.

 

If you wanted to change the fuel pressure sending unit for an aftermarket gauge that runs by fluid pressure i do not know how you could make it work

Posted

the oil pressure sending unit(cars with the oil pressure gauge) about 2.5 inches long and gives signal to run the fuel pump and gauge. Located right near the oil filter and knock sensor, Do not get confused knock sensor is 1 wire and the oil pressure sender is 3 wire

 

the oil pressure dummy sender (for cars with just the oil pressure light and for some like the cutlass with the oil pressure gauge ) same concept as above but only 1 or so inches long and just basically just shows same pressure when running. same location as above and still has 3 wires.

 

If you wanted to change the fuel pressure sending unit for an aftermarket gauge that runs by fluid pressure i do not know how you could make it work

 

That's what I needed to know. Thanks much, Tom

Posted

:cool:

When i sitched my cutlass to the UB3 i had to change mine from the dummy sender to the actual sender

Posted

:cool:

When i sitched my cutlass to the UB3 i had to change mine from the dummy sender to the actual sender

 

Was it a 3.4, and do you have a part number for the sender?

 

Thanks, Tom

Posted

it is a 3100. I believe the part number is PS 245 SMP brand

 

Would the 3.4 use the same, and sorry if this is a dumb question, but what is SMP?

 

Thanks for the help and patience, Tom

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Tom, I just looked up what sender your '95 uses, and it is the exact same switch style sender that my car came with, as discussed in my recent thread. Based on that info, you should be able to substitute the same real sender that I did. I don't know if you'll have to clip the same resistor as I did, or exactly what you plant of doing for a gauge, but here is the actual part you'd need:

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Switch-ACDelco_3964566-P_417_R|GRPSESWAMS_297903890___

Posted

Tom, I just looked up what sender your '95 uses, and it is the exact same switch style sender that my car came with, as discussed in my recent thread. Based on that info, you should be able to substitute the same real sender that I did. I don't know if you'll have to clip the same resistor as I did, or exactly what you plant of doing for a gauge, but here is the actual part you'd need:

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Switch-ACDelco_3964566-P_417_R|GRPSESWAMS_297903890___

 

That's the ticket, and AC Delco to boot :high5: I fabricated an oil pressure gauge I cut out of a Regal full gauge cluster. It has values (numbers) which, I believe, means it's an actual gauge versus the later High-Low gauge which is a dummy gauge. At least that's what I gather from recent threads on the subject. I hope that's right after all the work and effort put into fabricating the gauge :lol:

 

Thanks much, Tom

Posted

Tom, I just looked up what sender your '95 uses, and it is the exact same switch style sender that my car came with, as discussed in my recent thread. Based on that info, you should be able to substitute the same real sender that I did. I don't know if you'll have to clip the same resistor as I did, or exactly what you plant of doing for a gauge, but here is the actual part you'd need:

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Switch-ACDelco_3964566-P_417_R|GRPSESWAMS_297903890___

 

That's the ticket, and AC Delco to boot :high5: I fabricated an oil pressure gauge I cut out of a Regal full gauge cluster. It has values (numbers) which, I believe, means it's an actual gauge versus the later High-Low gauge which is a dummy gauge. At least that's what I gather from recent threads on the subject. I hope that's right after all the work and effort put into fabricating the gauge :lol:

 

Thanks much, Tom

this the idea you PMed me about? I have been tempted to try something related.....

Posted

Tom, I just looked up what sender your '95 uses, and it is the exact same switch style sender that my car came with, as discussed in my recent thread. Based on that info, you should be able to substitute the same real sender that I did. I don't know if you'll have to clip the same resistor as I did, or exactly what you plant of doing for a gauge, but here is the actual part you'd need:

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Switch-ACDelco_3964566-P_417_R|GRPSESWAMS_297903890___

 

That's the ticket, and AC Delco to boot :high5: I fabricated an oil pressure gauge I cut out of a Regal full gauge cluster. It has values (numbers) which, I believe, means it's an actual gauge versus the later High-Low gauge which is a dummy gauge. At least that's what I gather from recent threads on the subject. I hope that's right after all the work and effort put into fabricating the gauge :lol:

 

Thanks much, Tom

this the idea you PMed me about? I have been tempted to try something related.....

 

Yes it is. And for what it's worth, I also fabricated a volt gauge cut from the same Regal cluster so I can have full gauges.:cool: Do you know if I'm right about the numbered versus H-L gauges?

 

Tom

Posted

the H-L versus numbered gauge is the same gauage with different markings. HOW THEY ARE CONTROLLED... is what differs

 

It is presumed that GM removed the numbered markings because the gauges were not that accurate... and people complained. And as they did this they also stopped using real senders to give the gauge readings. They used the shorter "switch" which would peg the gauge at full anytime there was more than 4PSI of pressure... and then added a resistor to the wiring harness that jumpers two of the wires together such that the "FULL" mark was resistance modified to be about 5/8ths of the way up the gauge.

 

 

so... whether you have a h-l of numbered gauge, either will work as long as you remove the resistor from the under hood harness (if present!) and use a "SENDER" (longer) and not the "SWITCH" (shorter)

 

 

 

I do not think the 95 has a resistor in the harness, but I could be wrong.

I also do not know if the current "oil" light will work properly or not if you try pulling a sender in it's place (SAY, I SHOULD TRY THAT!)

 

Posted

I am not really conserned about the light, altho it would be nice if it could work to. As long as the gauge works, mission accomplished. Once I'm finished with molding the gauge pods into the cluster bezel, I'll work on the wiring. Thanks for clearing up the difference in the 2 gauges.

 

Tom

Posted

I am not really conserned about the light, altho it would be nice if it could work to. As long as the gauge works, mission accomplished. Once I'm finished with molding the gauge pods into the cluster bezel, I'll work on the wiring. Thanks for clearing up the difference in the 2 gauges.

 

Tom

share what you have done when you can! :twisted:

Posted

I've taken pics of the whole process so far, but unfortunayely I can't post at this time. I just had to take a 5% pay cut so my wife has us on a pretty tight budget at this time. I'm registered on Photo Bucket, but only for the free service. I've tryed posting from there to here, but no can do. I guess I have to be a paying subscriber to do that. Hell, I've been on here for almost a year and haven't even posted pics of my vert yet :redface: When funds are available tho, I've got tons of pics to post.

 

Tom

Posted

what are you doing when you try to upload pics. because you dont have to be a paying subscriber on photobucket to post pics

Posted

I really don't have a clue. :dunno: Hoping someone can bring a laptop to the next Northern IL meet and walk me thru it :dunce: That's about the only way I'll get it cause trying to explain it here as was tryed B4 just didn't work. :dunce: :dunce:

 

Tom

Posted

let me give it a shot. i will post pics of what im doing

Posted

Getting "this photo or video has been moved or deleted" when I click on it. Thanks for trying tho. Just as well cause my eyes are starting to burn, so it's bed time for Bonzo. Maybe we can try this at a later date when I'm fresh and in the What Ever section.

 

Tom

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