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Electrical/Battery re-routing to trunk


Myotis1134

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Does anyone have any thoughts on the pros vs cons of moving the battery and electrical (fuse box, ecm, etc) to the trunk?

I'm definitely going to need to move the battery out of the way for a hood-scoop/ram-air project that I've been working on, and with the battery in a larger space like the trunk, I would like to add another battery to the system for a backup maybe.

I figure that after I clean and modify the trunk to my liking, it might be a more hospitable location for the ECM and other electrical system components.

And on the subject, would it be better to re-route the wiring through the cab, or under it?

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Move the battery, leave the other crap where it belongs

 

 

I used 1/0 copper cable as you would expect. I have NO issues... In the end, my damn ancient Napa battery is still alive somehow... Kinda helps when it doesnt get 200 degrees under the hood in the summer (heat kills batteries before cold does, just some FYI) And that does remind me, I need to get a new battery soon, this one is like 9 or 10 years old :willynilly:

 

I ran the battery cable under the carpet on the drivers side... It somehow fit after some creative shoving it in... More like me swearin, "get the hell in there dammit!!!" :lol:

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The only reason I have yet to move my battery to the trunk is because the local track I race at requires a kill switch on the back bumper if you have the battery in the trunk...

 

Jamie

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I did the under carpet way, but now I think it would have been a lot better to go under the car :confused:

 

Where under the car? put it in the wrong spot and anything that gets flung up at it could damage it.

 

Jamie

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I haven't really looked into since mine is done and I'm probably not going to change it, but I saw a muscle car somewhere sometime that had the wire from under the car, like the same spot as if it was in the inside but from the outside :rolleyes: then at the trunk just did a whole and pulled the wire up to the battery, looked a lot cleaner and I would think that is easier, I'm not sure, but I would recommend looking into it to somebody that is about to do the relocation.

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Seems like there would be advantages and disadvantages to either under or through the car. Through the car, and you would have easier access to a hot wire, but it might get in the way and be hard to hide. Under the car and it's a cleaner look, but maybe gets messed up when you bottom out on a curb or some shit gets flung up.

I was looking around home depot today, and saw some really hard-core looking wire shielding in the electrical section- probably used for running it underground. Seemed like it would do a good job of protection if the line was run under the car.

I will probably end up going under, get some tough shielding and some bonding material or screw-on/rivet-on clamps to keep it as close to the body as possible.

Was looking through a summitracing magazine earlier, saw some battery brackets/boxes that would be pretty easy to secure to the trunk, might keep the battery from getting flung around when you hit the brakes.

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I went under the car after I had it inside the car. I changed it to under because I was able to run a shorter cable because I did not have to go across the engine bay and the hole in the firewall is only big enough for 4 gauge, maybe 2 without the grommet (I only use stereo cable, not welding cable). the 0 gauge wire I used was probably an inch thick and I just wire loomed it and used rubber lined steel straps to screw them in place under there kind of along side but not too close to the exhaust. attached it about every 6 inches and went through the trunk floor with a grommet for a tight fit.

 

It worked real good. I get well over 14 volts to my RV deep cycle.

 

nothing is going to fling up and hurt it I guarantee that. :wink:

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kdk_0151.jpgkdk_0154.jpg

 

here is the isolator where it starts and goes straight down and back.

 

kdk_0162.jpg

 

you don't need an isolator though unless you got two batteries. I'm thinking a capacitor where the front battery is would be a better setup than what I have. 0 gauge would be ideal but you could get away with 2 if you didn't have a couple huge ass amps to feed. you could use a regular car battery too if you don't need lots of reserve. get a deep cycle though because if you have a cap up front you will be fine. at least in theory. I have decided the extra power storage in the front of my car is unnecessary.

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got those from the hardware store.

 

Found em. The Home Depot and Lowes only had the fragile plastic or nylon ones. I ended up finding the nice metal/rubber or metal/vinyl one's on Ace Hardware's website. Plus, I get 10% of at Ace since my fiance works at another store that the owner of Ace owns as well!

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Whoever did the system wiring on my TGP ran the power wire under the car. Not sure why since its only 4 gauge. I was well done and ive never had a problem so i havent bothered re-doing it.

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