CSI_MuNkY Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 So I am thinking about swapping over a 96 upper and lower intake. I was going to get a 95 top end to use as a core to P&P and powder coat, but Captain Ficho found a 96 LQ1 at the wreckers, so I might as well do that. What parts do I have to get from the LQ1 to complete the swap. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 First everything I've read is that it's not good for the auto's since it takes some low end, and the auto's don't rev as high. If you decide to do it, there is a thread on 60* but it might be gone by now. Upper and lower intakes TB TB arm Airbox MAF All misc. sensors EGR and tube All vacuum lines rear valve cover might as well get the coil mount so you can relocate them up there Bolts Cruise control cable and maybe throttle cable Bypass pipe running above the front manifold and the t-stat housing. It's alot of stuff. That's everything off the top of my head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Fuel lines as well right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Ya those too. Best thing to do is disconnect the quick disconnects and take the rail and LIM as one piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Do I need the additional sensors and new MAF if I am staying with my OBD1.5? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Ok... so I understand that 96+ LQ1s pull harder and longer Is that more to do with the cylinder head design? Do you think its more work than its worth? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Do I need the additional sensors and new MAF if I am staying with my OBD1.5? Jamie The yard I pulled the set up from usually is stupid and only charged me $60 for a wheel barrow filled with "random intake parts." Are you worried you might get charged piece by piece? I'm not sure if you need the MAF I don't think it's different than the 94-95's though. I don't know of anyone who's done the swap on a 94-95 car so I really can't answer that for you. I know there was a write-up a few years back by OldSkoolGP, but it might be gone now. Ok... so I understand that 96+ LQ1s pull harder and longer Is that more to do with the cylinder head design? Do you think its more work than its worth? Jamie To be honest I can't answer that for you. I've just heard for the auto's it takes to much of the lowend out of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 I posted on 60* so hopefully OldskoolGP will see and answer I am worried about the wreckers charging me piece by piece, they suck for that around here. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Ok... so I understand that 96+ LQ1s pull harder and longer Is that more to do with the cylinder head design? Do you think its more work than its worth? Jamie Can vouch for that there is no comparison with the 96' DOHC Lumina compared to my chipped Z34. The 96 DOHC would maul any older models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 I GOT IT! Got all of it, every last piece except for the EGR (won't work with my wiring anyways) I paid $85 out the door for everything! I'm going to look in to getting it all hot dipped, then I might polish it up inside. But honestly, there isn't much there to port, so there won't be much point in porting, lol. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Ok... so I understand that 96+ LQ1s pull harder and longer Is that more to do with the cylinder head design? Do you think its more work than its worth? Jamie Can vouch for that there is no comparison with the 96' DOHC Lumina compared to my chipped Z34. The 96 DOHC would maul any older models. Not a 5speed. I GOT IT! Got all of it, every last piece except for the EGR (won't work with my wiring anyways) I paid $85 out the door for everything! I'm going to look in to getting it all hot dipped, then I might polish it up inside. But honestly, there isn't much there to port, so there won't be much point in porting, lol. Jamie Sweet what did the guys on 60 say if anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Basically the same thing everyone said here, lol EGR is going to be my big hurdle... The newer one won't work with my wiring and my old one won't bolt up, so I am going to try and machine an adapter plate in class to make mine work on the newer intake. First though, e-test (I know the car will pass as it sits, and it is good for 2 years, so I might as well, I just have to get the car running properly right, hopefully the column swap fixed my short) Then I will have the new parts hot dipped, then worry about how I am going to mount my EGR Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 We owned that top end quick time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 We owned that top end quick time. That we did! Cell phone pics Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 Cool. It's much easier to remove than the 91-95 style. Did you get all the braces for the coilpack mount? You need to also get the engine lift point brace since its different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 Cool. It's much easier to remove than the 91-95 style. Did you get all the braces for the coilpack mount? You need to also get the engine lift point brace since its different. I got the coil pack mount but not the engine lift point brace... whats different about it?? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 It has a cast nut in it that you need to bolt the brace too. There is also a brace that runs along the plastic timing belt cover that you need to get. FWIW:That engine lift point thing is probably the most torqued thing on the engine. Use lots of PB and a breaker bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 We'll grab that when we go back for the EGR tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 I'll get Fil to grab them for Wild Wing Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 "true" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 I'm gonna cut that car up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 I'm gonna cut that car up! You would! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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