gpchris Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Is it ok to grease the "cone" part on the stud?? It should be as long as the bolt is tight and has a pin right? I just need to be able to easily remove them because im going to be frequently adjusting my suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Why grease them? Thats why they make never-seize or anti-seize whatever you call it, for that exact purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 They shouldnt be greased. Furthermoar, unless you overtighten the studs or let them stay on for years, they should seperate quick easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 i always grease them on mine, so rust will not form aqnd jamb everything together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 i always grease them on mine, so rust will not form aqnd jamb everything together... lol... Ken, you are obsesed with greasing everything... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutty Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 i always grease them on mine, so rust will not form aqnd jamb everything together... lol... Ken, you are obsesed with greasing everything... He just likes it lubed up for easy access!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 i always grease them on mine, so rust will not form aqnd jamb everything together... Anti-seize is probably best, but ya there is nothing wrong with greasing them nothing is going to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpchris Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 i always grease them on mine, so rust will not form aqnd jamb everything together... Anti-seize is probably best, but ya there is nothing wrong with greasing them nothing is going to happen. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 i always grease them on mine, so rust will not form aqnd jamb everything together... Anti-seize is probably best, but ya there is nothing wrong with greasing them nothing is going to happen. Thanks IMO grease will squeeze out easier.... but eitehr will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 You are using the nut on the top to pull a tapered stud into a tapered hole. The whole point of doing that is to microscopically "stretch" the hole providing a high-friction "tight" fit between steel stud and steel (or more commonly iron) hole. The manufacturer specified a certain torque; and usually you are instructed to continue tightening past that torque in order to align the slot in the nut with the hole in the stud to allow a cotter pin to be inserted. So, for instance, you tighten to 20 ft/lbs; plus whatever additional rotation is needed to align the cotter pin hole. If you grease the stud, you reduce the friction of it sliding into the tapered hole. Therefore, the taper will pull in farther; and that stretches the hole more. Go too far, and you're gonna crack the casting. Greasing the stud is NOT recommended unless instructed to do so by the manufacturer. I suppose you could do some testing to figure out how much to reduce the torque of the nut to compensate--but--it's going to be more trouble than it's worth. Better Idea: Buy a proper set of tools to pop the joint free; you won't care about "lubing" the stud/hole interface. I have a set of ball joint/tie rod end disassembly tools; they were on the "free tool loaner rack" at the local NAPA; and I liked 'em so much I bought a set for myself. The NAPA kit I bought is the same as this set sold by OTC as p/n 6295; but it costs way less through NAPA. http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/products/6295_2231.jpg Folks may tell you that a pickle fork works fine for separating ball joints and tie rod ends and such; others just beat on the iron casting with a hammer until the stud pops free. Once you use those tools above, you'll never use a pickle fork again; and I never was much for smacking the shit out of iron castings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 i've been trying to figure out where to get such a tool! I hate the pickle fork because it seems to tear up stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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