Dark Ride Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 If you need to replace the injectors, the C302 Yellowtop injectors from five0motorsports website are direct plug and play. The description for them says 19 lb/hr, but with our fuel pressure, they run about 22 lb/hr. I have a set in my TGP and they work great. You can also find them on ebay rather inexpensively. x2, I forgot about those, quite a few of the TGP guys run those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 or it could simply be the EGR tube has a crack in it. usually you can actually hear the exhaust leak back there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 OK I have just finished pulling the fuel rail is there any way to test or tell which injectors are bad or good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Here are some pics of each of them, it looks as one was previously replaced with a different injector. 123 1 2 3 4 5 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Fuel Rail #1 Â Fuel Rail #2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww88/PhatMpk/DSC03370.jpg http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww88/PhatMpk/DSC03367.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Ohm out each injector and tell us the numbers you are getting on each injector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 1-12.3 2-14.7 3-12.5 4-12.5 5-12.3 6-9.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 1-12.3 2-14.7 3-12.5 4-12.5 5-12.3 6-9.5 Â #6 needs to be replaced. The one that has already been replaced on the rail must be #2 you listed there. It is a Ford yellow top injector(the same style most of us eventually replace all our injectors with). Ebay is the cheapest place for a brand new set of them, I can give you a link to the ebay store/seller that sells them cheaper than anyone else if you want. Ebay is probably also your best bet for a single yellow top injector if you just want to replace the one that's bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Perfect Thanks for all the help everyone. Finished replacing my bad injector and my back plugs and wires, now just need to patch a few vacuum leaks, seal my gaskets n its ready for a test run should be done tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Ive already upgraded my brake rotors, both front wheel bearings are new, new pads so I should be set for awhile. My ABS went bad on my car about a year ago. Well our cars were guinea pigs for having the master cyclinder and ABS unit intergrated so impossible to find a replacement ABS with a Master cyclinder had to install a basic Non-ABS braking system into my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 All I need now is a set of four Kumhos and a set of shocks, after i get it smogged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 I always use K & N oil filter on my car they are the best you can get for your buck, the anti-drain back valve is always in perfect condition rather than using Fram they just dont collect as much gunk but work when u need them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Just finished putting everything back together shes runs a like a champ now thanks again all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Hey all well I replaced my map sensor but I am still having the idling issue now. It will jump from 750 to 1000 rpms just like before but there is no smoke when starting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I am leaning towards a major vaccum leak does anyone know how to diagnose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Took it out for a test drive, runs like crap with this new map sensor switching back to the GM one, but it starts like a champ but wont idle for a damn!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 tgp map sensors are 2 bar if u used a map sensor out of another gp thats non turbo its a 3 bar and will not work.. whatever you put in it has to be 2 bar.. or else u will get what your getting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishman517 Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 The map sensors are two atmosphere to be able to read pressure as well as vacuum, I beleive most of your problems are the craked cross-over or a leaking EGR tube/valve. The reason your car is running rich, the O2 thinks it is lean and fattens up the injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted August 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 We put a fuel pressure gauge onto the fuel rail, and it was running 42 lbs. of pressure while starting. While running it would drop down to about 34 lbs of pressure, and after shutting the car off the pressure would drop straight to zero. We replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and it would start and hold pressure fine, but when I would run it over 3,000 rpms it would start to bog out instead of giving more power. We then replaced the fuel filter, and now it runs absolutey perfect thanks to a GP Sorensen fuel pressure regulator, and a Fram fuel filter. We replaced the rear shocks, all new plugs and wires all around, replaced the upper intake manifold gasket, patched the leaking EGR Valve, also replaced the oil pump drive shaft O-ring so no more oil leaking, all new kuhmo tires,then adjust the vacuum modulator, and it passed smog. Now its running like its suppose to. Thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted September 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2009 Replaced the fuel filter, and the following day it would still have the same symptoms, the fuel is getting starved from the low fuel pressure that the pump it pushing. Removed the fuel lines from the fuel sending unit and there was no pressure at all, so now im replacing the fuel pump and strainer which is done now its much harder putting all the lines back on than there was taking off always fun spent about 4-hours so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted September 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Replaced the new fuel pump and new fuel strainer runs much better now at lower speeds but still having the car lose power at higher rpms, thinking the spark plugs gaps are to big at .45?? I had previously had the exhaust crossover welded back together where it had a large crack underneath it, but looked fine from the top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 Yes, if you're running more than stock boost, you can gap the plugs to .30" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatMpk Posted September 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 Regapped the plugs to .30 and replaced the EGR Valve gasket and still no improvement, it wants to runs the turbo perfect up to about 0 Psi, but it doesnt want to give any positive boost while accelerating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.