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How do my plugs look?


cubsfan24

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I had a question on my spark plugs in my 1996 Lumina 3100. It has 146,408 miles on her and I know no history on it. I took a plug out today and I don't know what a good or bad plug looks like. How does this plug look?

http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/7679/spark1.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/9180/spark2.jpg

BTW, the car is running good right now. No lights are on I just wanted to see what your guys thought about how they looked. Thanks!

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Ok, what is the best way to get to the rear plugs? Also, are AC Delco rapidfire plugs from autozone for $4.99 each a good deal? How about plug wires? I hate to spend money when it isn't needed. Especially when the rear plugs seem to be a pain to get to.

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Ok 1 more question. In that second link you just sent, since I have the newer 3.1L engine do I tilt the engine forward with a prybar and stick the bolt back into the dog bone through the hole I drew an arrow to in this pic: http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/3110/15071674.png

 

This doesn't seem like this would be good for the engine and transmission to tilt it forward like that. Is there enough room for all of the wires/cables to move? Also, were those Delco rapidfire plugs the best bang for the buck or do you recommend spending less, more?

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ya, that is the way I normally do it to, yank it forward and stick the bolt through, just make sure to either block the back wheels or set your parking brake if it works. I also normally go with AC delco rapidfires and just whatever plug wires are the cheapest.

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That sounds great, I will probably do it in a week or two. I will be back if I have any issues :lol:. One more quick question. Can this be done with a regular ratchet, spark plug socket, and 3" and 6" extensions? I do not have any fancy swivel sockets or ratchets. Thanks for you help BTW.

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I tell you what I did on my 98 lumina /w 3100 sfi. I didn't pull the motor forward. When i got the front plug replaced i did the following:

 

I Disconnected the wires to the coil pack.

 

I removed the coil pack ( I think two bolts did it)

 

I then removed the EGR Solenoid (its right under the coil pack)

 

I literally sat my fat A$$ on top of the plenum and put the new plugs in by one hand. I did it all by feel and took my dear sweet time.

 

Put some Anti seaze on those things man, it will save you the hassel next time. I couldn't believe when i changed mine at 56,000 that the front came out with the porcelain part cracked. I even had the middle plug in the front completly brake in half :lol:. It scared the shit out of me because i thought i couldn't remove it from the block. I think the only thing saved me was the hex bolt part was not affected by it and i was able to remove it. They originally had Delcos, I put in Bosch plus platnium. I haven't had any issues with them but after what i saw with the delco's cracking and one coming apart I'll do Boschs, or NGK.

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I forgot how little room there was behind a 3.1 in a W-body. The nice thing about my H-body with a 3800 is that there is so much room in the engine bay that I can reach all the spark plugs easily :nana:

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Just did mine tonight.

 

Thing about putting the transmission in neutral and rocking it, well I left it in park. Disconnected the both dog bones and rocked the car and set the e brake when it was tilted enough.

 

Worked out well and took me less than an hour to change all 6.

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I got around and bought 6 AC Delco Rapid Fires and a $40 set of wires because they were out of the $30 set. Cost me a total of $72 :willynilly:. Rocking the engine forward was interesting but not that bad. She seems to start faster/easier with the new plugs and seems to accelerate a little smoother also. I just took it around the block. Anyways, I had a question about those plastic tubes that go around the wires that run over the manifold. That instructions that came with the wires said not to let them touch the manifold. The plastic tube thing was kinda ruined when I took the old wires out of it because it was so brittle. Is this necessary or is there some other product I can use in its place?

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Is this more of an aesthetic thing or a functional thing. Will it hurt anything to have the wires touch the manifold? I knew that stuff had a name but couldn't think of it. Learn something new everyday.

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It is functional. The reason for the loom is so your wires don't rub on the manifolds among other things, and start grounding out on them. Your wires will last longer if they aren't rubbing on your manifolds.

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I will try to salvage my stock looms because they are not that bad. They are just very brittle when you try to shove the wires into it. If I can get the wires into the loom it should work. If I can't get that to work out then I will try to find some replacement loom somewhere. Again, thanks for everyones help. :high5:

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i never used the looms after i took them off, looks better if you ask me(except for the #6 wire). mine didn't rub because of how i used the wire seperators to lift them off of the manifold.... then again i cut/crimped them myself to make sure they were the perfect length.

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