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Leaf spring bushings


Guest RedCutlassSL

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Guest RedCutlassSL

Which one of you guys had to change the leaf spring bushings? How much are the bushings, and how much of a PITA is it to do? Thanks

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Guest RedCutlassSL

Ok, I've replaced the trailing arms and struts and mounts trying to rid of this noise. So, do you guys think I should just replace all the bushings back there? What bushings are left? Again, please leave me part numbers if you know em.

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Which one of you guys had to change the leaf spring bushings? How much are the bushings, and how much of a PITA is it to do? Thanks

 

Do you mean the pads underneath the bottom of the mono-leaf?

 

Moog part #K6544 for ~$19 at CarQuest. You only need one box.

 

Jack the car up.

 

Then compress the spring with a 10" C-clamp. While the spring is compressed,

use a 6" C-clamp to squeeze the new pad in. The c-clamp will get the pad in 80%

of the way. You will want to use a 6" extension and a hammer to get it in the rest

of the way.

 

Maybe 15 minutes per side IF you have the right size c-clamps.

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Guest TurboSedan

ack, i hate subject lines that start like this one. :? it sounds so.....demanding. besides, you get less views and that equals less replies when you don't specify what the thread is about. just my .02

joshua

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Here you go:

 

10432057 Insulator Kit $21.83

10432060 Adhesive $13.50

 

It was real easy. I changed 'em on my stepbro's Cutty. They had already worn away, so I didn't have to remove the old ones. I left the car on the ground and jacked up on the leaf with a piece of wood between the jack and spring as a cushion to prevent scratching the spring. I jacked up just high enough that there was enough gap to sand the spring ends and clean them with lacquer thinner. If you do it this way, put the sandpaper on a small flat board or something similar (i.e. paint stirring stick). You don't want to put your fingers in the gap just in case! Then I just applied the adhesive to the rubber pads and shoved them in place under the spring. I then lowered the spring and removed the jack. I let the car set for several days (no one was driving it at the time). I don't think it took longer than 15-minutes to do both sides. When my stepdad got around to driving it, he said it was like a brand new car (it was making awful noises before).

Good luck!

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Just curious, but how can trailing arms increase the performance?

 

wow, do i ever notice a difference witht those performance trailing arms!!!
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It sounded like it, up until his instructions. I'm not sure what he's doing with the C-clamps. Maybe a lot more creative than my install?

 

I was talking about those rubber pads at the tips of the spring.

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It sounded like it, up until his instructions. I'm not sure what he's doing with the C-clamps. Maybe a lot more creative than my install?

 

I was talking about those rubber pads at the tips of the spring.

 

I believe that we are talking about the same thing. I think we just had two different

ways of doing the same thing.

 

Shawn is the GM part number a poly urethane part or a rubber part? The Moog part

is a poly-urethane "Problem Solving" part. Any Moog part labeled "problem solving"

is made of poly-urethane.

 

Note: If you are replacing worn-out rubber pads with the poly-urethane pad,

expect your rear to go up a little with the new pad under the spring.

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Shawn is the GM part number a poly urethane part or a rubber part? The Moog part

is a poly-urethane "Problem Solving" part. Any Moog part labeled "problem solving"

is made of poly-urethane.

 

Rubber, I think. I believe it's the same material as OEM.

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I had my replaced on my '89 regal GS when I had the 4 struts done...big difference and the new ones from GM (supposedly) were polyurethane.

But I still have some sort of noise back there when I hit certain types of bumps! Can't get all the noises out of an olde car :)

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