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You won't believe Me!


Artemis

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This is gonna sound weird to you guys, but this is an issue I've been having lately. For awhile now my car has been idling funny, I had those 19 codes, replaced the ECM and it still idles funny. Regardless. A few weeks ago I was sitting in my car, idling away and noticed something. As soon as I turned on my headlights, the car would idle funny (fluctuate up and down), but then if I turned them off the idle would be nicer. I thought it was very strange... but alas.

 

The past two days in a row leaving work... I started the car, let it warm up a minute or two. Then as soon as I turned on the lights it immediately died! Then struggled to start again but ran fine after it did. Any thoughts as to what could be happening here?

 

Also, I'm not sure if its relevant but I have HID headlights.

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The HID harness is plugged right into the stock one.

 

:skep:

 

you buy the HID kit to match your bulb type. So it uses your stock harness. So at the end of the stock harness you plug one end of the HID ballast in. The other end of the ballast goes to the HID bulb. No splicing or anything involved.

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Sounds like a pretty crappy setup to me. You need to get rid of that cheap crap and do it right, or don't do it at all.

 

And, while your at it, replace your alternator and battery since you have most likely strained them to the point of close to failing.

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Sounds like a pretty crappy setup to me. You need to get rid of that cheap crap and do it right, or don't do it at all.

 

And, while your at it, replace your alternator and battery since you have most likely strained them to the point of close to failing.

 

How is that a crappy setup at all? It couldn't be more simple. Are you saying its better to make your own wiring as opposed to using stock wiring thats already there? My alternator and battery are fine.

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Sounds like a pretty crappy setup to me. You need to get rid of that cheap crap and do it right, or don't do it at all.

 

And, while your at it, replace your alternator and battery since you have most likely strained them to the point of close to failing.

 

How is that a crappy setup at all? It couldn't be more simple. Are you saying its better to make your own wiring as opposed to using stock wiring thats already there? My alternator and battery are fine.

it may plug into the wiring directly. BUT IS IT OVERLOADING THE CIRCUIT?

 

and how do you know the alternator is good? just because it seems to work doesn't mean it is working correctly. In my case, it was putting out the proper voltage at like 10 amps instead of 110 or whatever it is supposed to. no alternator light was on.

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sound like your charging system is either overworked, or worn out. I had an under performing alternator do the same thing.

Bad Ground? I have seen some strange things happen on vehicles with bad electrical connections. One thing that has also cropped up has been numerous trouble codes.

X2 and X2

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Sounds like a pretty crappy setup to me. You need to get rid of that cheap crap and do it right, or don't do it at all.

 

And, while your at it, replace your alternator and battery since you have most likely strained them to the point of close to failing.

 

How is that a crappy setup at all? It couldn't be more simple. Are you saying its better to make your own wiring as opposed to using stock wiring thats already there? My alternator and battery are fine.

 

A good set of HID's will require either a seperate relay, or a powered ballast system. All the factory headlamp switch will do is tell the relay, or powered ballasts, to turn on. They will get there own power from a seperate power source, that isn't limited by the small wires that are stock in your vehicle.

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Clean and/or tighten down your AUX battery post terminal..

 

/thread

 

I check my AUX post frequently as I've had to replace it in the past. I wish that was the issue. These HIDs DO use a ballast, but its powered by the stock wiring. Either way, I've taken them out, I'll see if things change.

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The ballast/relay needs to be powered directly from the battery, with a inline fuse. Then the headlight switch only tells it to turn on or off, with no power consumption used by the poor power system that GM used.

 

It sounds like the alternator is dead. Take the car to Autozone, and have them run a ARPS test on the car. Not completely accurate, but it will give you an idea of whats going on with the alternator. They can also test the battery at the same time.

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The ballast/relay needs to be powered directly from the battery, with a inline fuse. Then the headlight switch only tells it to turn on or off, with no power consumption used by the poor power system that GM used.

 

It sounds like the alternator is dead. Take the car to Autozone, and have them run a ARPS test on the car. Not completely accurate, but it will give you an idea of whats going on with the alternator. They can also test the battery at the same time.

 

Dont have Autozone here unfortunately. This weekend I'm going to tighten all my bolts and such. Honestly I didn't know a relay was necessary but now that you guys say so, I'll grab one. For now I just removed the HIDs. See if I can get the alt tested... I really don't want it to be the alt though.

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Thanks! That will save me time when I install my HID kit when the weather gets better. I didnt sell like chopping up my wiring today :lol:

 

 

And, if the HIDs unplugged, with tight battery and altenator and ground connections, then the altenator is definately weak. Prolly blown diodes in it..

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