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Posted

On my 96 Lumina, I have a bunch of noise coming from the car over 40. It's somewhat of a howling noise, and I can't determine where it is coming from. It seems like it is coming from the front as I feel a bit of "vibration" in the steering wheel. When I turn the wheel left, the car seems to howl and I can feel this more in the wheel, then to the left it does nothing. I've rotated the tires and checked the pressures and that makes no difference.

 

I was thinking the front right wheel bearing, the left is a year old. However, it sounds like the howling may be coming from the back. I'm at a loss, explain the rear suspension to me a bit.

 

Do these cars have a tendency of having rear wheel bearings to go? How do you change them? Expense? Also, the struts are making a banging noise over large bumps, so I'm assuming that is struts/plates but does that have any effect on my issue?

 

The car is becoming frustrating to drive. Thanks for the info in advance.

Posted

the howling is definitely bearings. they are a sealed unit type so you have to replace the whole hub assembly. the rears are easier than the fronts to replace, though they arent that hard as long as you have a good breaker bar.

expense?? over $100 for a good unit, and 2 hours of your time.

Posted

On my 96 Lumina, I have a bunch of noise coming from the car over 40. It's somewhat of a howling noise, and I can't determine where it is coming from. It seems like it is coming from the front as I feel a bit of "vibration" in the steering wheel. When I turn the wheel left, the car seems to howl and I can feel this more in the wheel, then to the left it does nothing. I've rotated the tires and checked the pressures and that makes no difference.

 

I was thinking the front right wheel bearing, the left is a year old. However, it sounds like the howling may be coming from the back. I'm at a loss, explain the rear suspension to me a bit.

 

Do these cars have a tendency of having rear wheel bearings to go? How do you change them? Expense? Also, the struts are making a banging noise over large bumps, so I'm assuming that is struts/plates but does that have any effect on my issue?

 

The car is becoming frustrating to drive. Thanks for the info in advance.

So which ways does it make noise/ go away :confused?:

Posted

Front bearings are not hard, as long as you can use a breaker bar and a pickle fork. Pull out the balljoint and the hub nut, and then there are four bolts on the backside of the hub. It's easier than it looks after you get the balljoint out.

Posted

Today I bought a brand new Timken one from Parts Plus for $75, which is a better quality and better price than the one I bought for the left side a year ago. It wasn't too hard, and it was the right front hub assembly. And finally the car is super quiet again.

 

Thanks for the info guys. For a while I was second guessing myself as to if it was the rear or front but she's all set now!

Posted

Sweet. The rear struts themselves are probably rattling. I guess that would be your next thing to add on the list.

Posted

I did the rear struts on my 90, so I'm assuming it's roughly the same as that?

Posted

I did the rear struts on my 90, so I'm assuming it's roughly the same as that?

 

yes and no. Your 96 has rear springs to deal with as the 90 didnt.

Posted

Front bearings are not hard, as long as you can use a breaker bar and a pickle fork. Pull out the balljoint and the hub nut, and then there are four bolts on the backside of the hub. It's easier than it looks after you get the balljoint out.

 

Do you really need to take the balljoint out?

 

If you have ABS remember there is a sensor there, and if the car has any sort of miles on it get some PB Blaster and get ready to pound on it!

Posted

Front bearings are not hard, as long as you can use a breaker bar and a pickle fork. Pull out the balljoint and the hub nut, and then there are four bolts on the backside of the hub. It's easier than it looks after you get the balljoint out.

 

Do you really need to take the balljoint out?

 

If you have ABS remember there is a sensor there, and if the car has any sort of miles on it get some PB Blaster and get ready to pound on it!

 

I didn't need to take the balljoint out. The bolts came out easily, though you might have to pull out the ABS sensor to get to one of the bolts. The axle hammers right out, even on my 194k mile regal. I tried a gear puller with no success. Just make sure you don't hit the threads with the hammer, or you'll have one hell of a time getting that nut back on.

Posted

Front bearings are not hard, as long as you can use a breaker bar and a pickle fork. Pull out the balljoint and the hub nut, and then there are four bolts on the backside of the hub. It's easier than it looks after you get the balljoint out.

 

Do you really need to take the balljoint out?

 

If you have ABS remember there is a sensor there, and if the car has any sort of miles on it get some PB Blaster and get ready to pound on it!

 

I didn't need to take the balljoint out. The bolts came out easily, though you might have to pull out the ABS sensor to get to one of the bolts. The axle hammers right out, even on my 194k mile regal. I tried a gear puller with no success. Just make sure you don't hit the threads with the hammer, or you'll have one hell of a time getting that nut back on.

 

Thats what files are for! :lol:

 

But I just had to tap mine lightly with a wimpy hammer. I guess your car had many more miles on it than mine.

Posted

I've only ever done it with taking the balljoint out. :lol: It's probably overkill.

 

Yeah, I'd say.

Posted

Yup balljoint didn't need to come out. It was easier than I thought it would be, honestly.

Posted

Yup balljoint didn't need to come out. It was easier than I thought it would be, honestly.

 

Same thing I thought, once I stopped dicking around with that gear puller and used a hammer to get the axle out. Glad you got it figured out. :high5:

Posted

I hope you put anti-seize where it meets the knuckle they love to rust and seize to the knuckle there.

Posted

I hope you put anti-seize where it meets the knuckle they love to rust and seize to the knuckle there.

 

I've learned to anti-seize almost everything after living in NY for the 22 years of my existence.

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