88red4cyl Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 So my oil pump drive seal is leaking on my 95 3100 Lumina... I've been reading up trying to figure out how to accomplish this... I know you have to take off the air box and tb.. The thing that has me troubled is this c-clamp that I've read about.. On mine, all I can see is a circle that is raised up a bit when I look down at it from above... I don't see anything that resembles a c-clamp (at least what I think of as a c-clamp)... I was wondering if anyone had any pics of what it is supposed to look like... I was also wondering if anyone had any tips for me on how to do the job. Thanks guys! -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterchief362 Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I just recently did this on my 3100 95 CS... and, I personally found it easiest yet to take off the plenum along with the TB... then you will have easier access to the clamp holding the oil pump drive down, and this clamp resembles the shape of a C. Also, I removed the fuel lines from the fuel rails, then access to the drive is pretty much 100% clear. Once removed, mine slid right out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Add new o-ring (and RTV sealant I used too for a better seal) and slide it back in. Some claim it an be tough to get the drive back into the block, but I had no trouble at all. Lucky placement maybe?... Oh, and, be aware that when you put it back together, your idle may be high. Mine was 2500-2800 once done, but a good drive to reset the IAC should fix that. (If you even have that problem like I did) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I just recently did this on my 3100 95 CS... and, I personally found it easiest yet to take off the plenum along with the TB... then you will have easier access to the clamp holding the oil pump drive down, and this clamp resembles the shape of a C. Also, I removed the fuel lines from the fuel rails, then access to the drive is pretty much 100% clear. Once removed, mine slid right out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Add new o-ring (and RTV sealant I used too for a better seal) and slide it back in. Some claim it an be tough to get the drive back into the block, but I had no trouble at all. Lucky placement maybe?... Oh, and, be aware that when you put it back together, your idle may be high. Mine was 2500-2800 once done, but a good drive to reset the IAC should fix that. (If you even have that problem like I did) Where is the c-clamp located at though? Does it go around the drive underneath the top part of something? I don't see anything that even resembles a c-clamp down there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterchief362 Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Yeah, It goes around under the top round part you see from the top. Once you have it torn down, It will become visible. Sorry dude, I didn't take any pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Maybe someone else will have pics? I am really a visual type learner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterchief362 Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I am the same. Someone is bound to have pics... theres more than two 3100 owners on this site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 The bolt goes through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Thanks Jay!! That really doesn't look too hard now that I see it... That link you gave me the other day http://www.gmperformancetuning.com/forums/41063-post7.html said I can just pull it up a 1.2 inch or so and stretch the new ring over the top of it... Definitely sounds easy enough in theory... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 When I remove the throttle body, do I have to bleed the coolin system when I put it back together? And do I need to torque the throttle body bolts, or just tighten them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 You should be able to pull it out all the way. No need for having to stretch it over the top. It is a good idea to bleed the cooling system as well. If you don't have a torque wrench, then just snug them up tight and even, just not too tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 You should be able to pull it out all the way. No need for having to stretch it over the top. It is a good idea to bleed the cooling system as well. If you don't have a torque wrench, then just snug them up tight and even, just not too tight. I may just buy a cheaper one to do this job with... Better safe than sorry I suppose... I would want the 3/8 inch drive, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I wonder if you have to use a special o-ring or if a correct size o-ring will suffice? I am going to do mine before i start driving my cutlass again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I wonder if you have to use a special o-ring or if a correct size o-ring will suffice? I am going to do mine before i start driving my cutlass again Auto Zone sells the o-ring for 99 cents... This is for my 3100 Lumina, but I'm sure its the same on the Cutlass.. http://www.autozone.com/R,300030/vehicleId,1979001/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,2340/partType,00276/shopping/partProductDetail.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I may just buy a cheaper one to do this job with... Better safe than sorry I suppose... I would want the 3/8 inch drive, correct? That'll work just fine. And that o-ring will work for your CS, George. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I may just buy a cheaper one to do this job with... Better safe than sorry I suppose... I would want the 3/8 inch drive, correct? That'll work just fine. And that o-ring will work for your CS, George. So 3/8 is right for the tb? I always get confused between 3/8 and 1/2 and what you use them for... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 3/8th will be fine. I think the bolts are either 10 or 13 mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Thank you. I will pick it up next week. I might as well rip it all apart while it is in storage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 Auto Zone had to order the o-ring for me, so it looks like everything is going to get done on Friday.. I bought an inexpensive torque wrench from Auto Zone, and the tb gasket as well... I have a couple questions though... Is it possible to remove the tb while leaving the coolant lines intact? And if its not, I seem to remember something about a bypass? Does anyone have a part number for it from Auto Zone... I asked the guy at the store, and he didn't have any idea what I was talking about... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 You will need to disconnect the cooling lines. The "bypass" hose is just a 90 degree bent line used to go from the input right back into the output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 You will need to disconnect the cooling lines. The "bypass" hose is just a 90 degree bent line used to go from the input right back into the output. Ok... Is there a certain part made just for this application, and does it just clamp on the lines with hose clamps? What's the purpose of the coolant running into the tb anyway? Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm just trying to figure stuff out before I actually get into it on Friday... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 i could be wrong but i pulled my TB on my 94 cutlass before to clean it and i didnt think there was any lines connected to it. Maybe in other years? The only line that was in the way was the one that runs in front of the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 i could be wrong but i pulled my TB on my 94 cutlass before to clean it and i didnt think there was any lines connected to it. Maybe in other years? The only line that was in the way was the one that runs in front of the engine There's two coolant lines that attach to the back of the tb in my car... I have no clue what they are for though... Any does anybody have that part number for the bypass? I have to go to the parts store in a little bit to get the starter and o-ring, and I'd like to pick up this bypass as well... Ok, so I was wrong... There aren't any coolant lines going into my tb.. What I thought were the coolant lines are actually fuel lines ( I think)... I don't see any coolant lines at all.. Can anybody tell me where they are at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Bump.. I'm trying to get this done before dark.. So far I have the air cleaner box off, but I still don't see the coolant lines I'm supposed to remove... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 My '95 did not have coolant lines from the factory. If there's two 1/4" rubber hoses going to the BOTTOM of the TB then you have it. If not, you're scott free and the job is easier for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 My '95 did not have coolant lines from the factory. If there's two 1/4" rubber hoses going to the BOTTOM of the TB then you have it. If not, you're scott free and the job is easier for you. Do they go into the side of the tb, or the front? I'll go snap a pic in a second... I hope I don't have them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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