SmoothSteve3 Posted January 28, 2009 Report Posted January 28, 2009 Has anyone done a write up or have any crucial suggesstions for this job? -Steve Quote
1990lumina Posted January 29, 2009 Report Posted January 29, 2009 How bad is it leaking? My 3.1 used to seep around the gasket and eventually make a big mess all over the pan. I just cracked the pan bolts a touch to tighten them more and it's stopped competely. Quote
AL Posted January 29, 2009 Report Posted January 29, 2009 Its easy, Remove the Starter and the bolts to the oil pan... Easy... Quote
paulo57509 Posted January 29, 2009 Report Posted January 29, 2009 Its easy, Remove the Starter and the bolts to the oil pan... Easy... Serious? Quote
BXX Posted January 29, 2009 Report Posted January 29, 2009 Its easy, Remove the Starter and the bolts to the oil pan... Easy... Serious? no the engine cradle is in your way from getting the pan clear of the pickup and crank Quote
GP1138 Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 Its easy, Remove the Starter and the bolts to the oil pan... Easy... Serious? no the engine cradle is in your way from getting the pan clear of the pickup and crank I was waiting for this. Big Al, you're incorrect here. Bob is correct, the cradle needs to come out. It sucks. Quote
1990lumina Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 Either out or lowered considerably. Quote
AL Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 I did this on a 3.1 Cavalier, which is where I got my info from. I didnt think about the different cradles... They are correct, I am wrong. Sorry for the misleading info. Quote
SmoothSteve3 Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Posted February 2, 2009 Great...looking forward to it I'll try tightening the bolts to see if that helps any. Otherwise, looks like I'm SOL and preparing for another long repair. Quote
pitzel Posted May 3, 2015 Report Posted May 3, 2015 (edited) Doing this repair right now w/a new Fel Pro gasket. What a giant pain in the butt. I am following the manual. So far only big 'oops' is that I broke a bolt on the transmission mount which has to be detached from the subframe below lowering. So off to the parts store to buy a new transmission mount. Also, removing the tensioner makes life easier. Much easier. Don't even think of attempting if you don't have a well stocked toolbox, impact gun, etc. I'm using, for better or worse, the Harbor Freight support bar. Edited May 3, 2015 by pitzel Quote
pitzel Posted May 5, 2015 Report Posted May 5, 2015 Make sure you have a good air impact (the cheapie Harbor Freight 240 ft lbs can't do sh*t when it comes to installing the front subframe bolts, although it worked great for loosening the bolts). And a very healthy assortment of both 3/8 and 1/2" extensions. Both a 1/2" torque wrench (20-100+ foot pounds) and a 3/8" inch pounds torque wrench required. 6 jackstands, preferably the 6 ton variety. Deep sockets and shallow sockets, particularly in 10mm, 13mm, 15mm sizes. An angling ratchet definitely helps one's cause, as do wobble extensions. At least one floor jack. And a good selection of random scrap lumber to use to jack the transmission if needed. Fel-Pro includes some screw-in retaining clips in their gasket kit. They don't work in this application (not even the right thread size, and they'd actually obstruct things!). Witness marks are your friend if you have any questions on how to put things back together. I feel like I've been to hell and back on this job. Quote
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