Robby1870 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Recently I've bee having "weak" starts. Battery has a full charge, starter acts like its getting intermittent power during starting, slow spinning, seeming to "skip" a little. This past weekend I was at Kroger and was going to leave. Tried to start, did the "slow, weak" start thing. Tried this a couple of more times, finally when I turned the key, nothing happened. So I banged on the top of the column, that didn't change it. Then I shook the wheel back and forth a couple of times, and it started right up. Obviously I'm losing connection somewhere. My question is, is this the ignition switch or the lock cylinder? I'm starting to think it's probably the ignition switch. I've never done more to the steering column that replacing the turn signal switch and dropping the two upper bolts to have access to fix the low/high headlight switch. I searched for some info, but haven't found much. Basically, how hard is replacing both the ignition switch and lock cylinder? Also, any other special tools besides a steering wheel puller? Any help is welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 not hard. BUT... you can replace the ignition switch by dropping the column without even opening it. (no need to re-key) just pull all 4 bolts and lower the column to access the switch. are you certain it is not a weak starter? I just picked up 2 reduction gear starters from the J/Y for my cars... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 The starter is a gear reduction unit, about a year old now. When it acted up on the weekend after I shook the wheel back it forth it started normal, at "full speed". Same thing this morning, really weak initial start, shook the wheel, started fine. The weak thing doesn't always happen, but it's getting more and more common. So this is definitely an ignition switch problem? The only time I've had a lock cylinder fail, it completely froze and wouldn't release the key. I just want to make sure I replace the right thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Sounds like the switch to me. If your lucky, maybe externally one of the connections is loose. However, it could be internal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 That's a good point, Chris. Could even be just gunk or debris in the switch. Or maybe it's a similar issue I have with the brake lights where you have to jiggle the wiring harness above the glove box for the DIC sender unit to make them work sometimes. The worst part is of all 3 types of ignition switches (M/T, A/T with console shift, A/T with column shift) mine is the most expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 The starter is a gear reduction unit, about a year old now. When it acted up on the weekend after I shook the wheel back it forth it started normal, at "full speed". Same thing this morning, really weak initial start, shook the wheel, started fine. The weak thing doesn't always happen, but it's getting more and more common. So this is definitely an ignition switch problem? The only time I've had a lock cylinder fail, it completely froze and wouldn't release the key. I just want to make sure I replace the right thing. ok! as for the key freezing... if the key would not rotate back to the release position, it is not a problem with the key linkage, but a problem with the release mechanism. most likely you need lubricant at the shifter in the console. one more thought... when the car is hard to start, have you tried shifting to neutral to eliminate the possibility of it being the Neutral Start Switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 The starter is a gear reduction unit, about a year old now. When it acted up on the weekend after I shook the wheel back it forth it started normal, at "full speed". Same thing this morning, really weak initial start, shook the wheel, started fine. The weak thing doesn't always happen, but it's getting more and more common. So this is definitely an ignition switch problem? The only time I've had a lock cylinder fail, it completely froze and wouldn't release the key. I just want to make sure I replace the right thing. ok! as for the key freezing... if the key would not rotate back to the release position, it is not a problem with the key linkage, but a problem with the release mechanism. most likely you need lubricant at the shifter in the console. one more thought... when the car is hard to start, have you tried shifting to neutral to eliminate the possibility of it being the Neutral Start Switch? Haven't tried that, but I replaced the P/N switch less than a year ago. Also, my shift interlock cable is disconnected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 ok! can you describe what the key bind issue was? and just to make sure, this is not a push to release manual key cylinder, is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 ok! can you describe what the key bind issue was? and just to make sure, this is not a push to release manual key cylinder, is it? That key bind issue was on a different car. I was just referencing that as a way to show how lock cylinders have failed on me before, trying to justify to myself that the problem is the ignition switch. No, this is not a manual key cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 ok! can you describe what the key bind issue was? and just to make sure, this is not a push to release manual key cylinder, is it? That key bind issue was on a different car. I was just referencing that as a way to show how lock cylinders have failed on me before, trying to justify to myself that the problem is the ignition switch. No, this is not a manual key cylinder. if you don't currently have a key bind issue just replace the ignition switch on the top of the lower column. the reason i bring up the manual release cylinders, is because they wear out and the release pin will not trigger the release mechanism if mis-aligned. (I brought it up since you had a 5 speed W, IIRC) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 ok! can you describe what the key bind issue was? and just to make sure, this is not a push to release manual key cylinder, is it? That key bind issue was on a different car. I was just referencing that as a way to show how lock cylinders have failed on me before, trying to justify to myself that the problem is the ignition switch. No, this is not a manual key cylinder. if you don't currently have a key bind issue just replace the ignition switch on the top of the lower column. the reason i bring up the manual release cylinders, is because they wear out and the release pin will not trigger the release mechanism if mis-aligned. (I brought it up since you had a 5 speed W, IIRC) Yeah, I used to. I sold the guts out of it and just recently took the shell to the scrap yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Well, car wouldn't start when I tried to leave work today. I fumbled with connections, AUX, starter, etc, sometimes it was closer to starting, others farther away. So, I got a ride to the parts store from a friend to get a carb float for my Toyota and he dropped me off at home. I'm about to start rebuilding the carb on the truck. Not sure what I will do about the car yet, it's still at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2009 I replaced the Ignition Starter Switch today and.....no change. I guess next I'll replace the starter then completely give up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Clean your battery connections if you havent already... And clean the connections to the starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lb79theone Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Do you need to re-key if you get a stock replacement locking cyloinder and ignition switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Do you need to re-key if you get a stock replacement locking cyloinder and ignition switch? The lock cylinder activates the ignition switch.....they are two separate parts. You would need a new ignition key with a new lock cylinder. I believe most replacement lock cylinders come with a key in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lb79theone Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Ah, ok. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Okay, finished putting the new starter in today. Now, it just cranks and cranks, won't start. You know how there is a normal time between hitting start with the key to it actually starting? Well after that time it sputters once or twice then won't start, just keeps spinning. Here is what I think. The ICM controls spark up to what, 400rpm?, basically during starting. I feel like if I ever got it start it would run fine, so I think the problem is ICM/coils. However, I'm not sure I even want to fuck with it. There's a creek and work that looks like it needs an STE in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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