Front Wheel Hubs

[xtremerevolution]

Timken makes wheel hubs for 1st gen w-bodies for $57 each IIRC. I need a new one on the front right, as it seems the bearings are shot. I figure at 191,700 miles, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it. Its been giving me a buzzing sound on the front right for a good 25,000 miles now and I've been pretty much ignoring it. I probably should fix it soon.

 

So here are my questions.

 

1.  Is this a difficult job to do?

2.  Do I need any special tools?

3.  How long would it take me to finish?

 

I completely forgot about this problem when I started on those bushings. I'm hoping the current wheel hubs will hold up just fine during my drive from Chicago to LA, since they've held up without a problem so far, and only make a noise while taking left turns.

 

Thanks for the help guys.

 

edit...just fount this:

 

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=12849.0

 

"if you can do a brake job on the front, you can change a hub. its 4 more bolts and one nut more than doing pads/rotors."

 

Can someone confirm this? About that nut, what size socket do i need to remove it?

[slick]

Nothing too hard really. Take off the wheel. Undo the giant nut that holts the CV halfshaft into the wheel bearing. Take off the breaks. Should be 3(IIRC) bolts on the back side of the hub that hold it in place. May help to turn the steering wheel to have better access to the bolts. Undo the bolts. Then the hub *should* come out (a puller may help a bit here).

 

It's been a while since I've done it, so someone here can clear up the nitty gritty.

[xtremerevolution]

Nothing too hard really. Take off the wheel. Undo the giant nut that holts the CV halfshaft into the wheel bearing. Take off the breaks. Should be 3(IIRC) bolts on the back side of the hub that hold it in place. May help to turn the steering wheel to have better access to the bolts. Undo the bolts. Then the hub *should* come out (a puller may help a bit here).

 

It's been a while since I've done it, so someone here can clear up the nitty gritty.

 

Could you elaborate on what kind of "puller" you're referring to?

[slick]

I think I had a pulley puller when I did mine.

[xtremerevolution]

I think I had a pulley puller when I did mine.

 

Do you think my w-body steering wheel puller will do the trick?

[slick]

I think I had a pulley puller when I did mine.

 

Do you think my w-body steering wheel puller will do the trick?

 

Truthfully, I can't say for sure.

[xtremerevolution]

I think I had a pulley puller when I did mine.

 

Do you think my w-body steering wheel puller will do the trick?

 

Truthfully, I can't say for sure.

 

Alright, thanks for the help man.

 

Its funny, I post here and cross my fingers hoping you'll post in reply since I know you'll know exactly what I need to do. I sincerely appreciate all the help you've given me here.

[slick]

No problem.

 

Just keep in mind, it has been a long long while since I've pulled apart any 1st gen W stuff, and when it comes to the modifications, I have minimal experience in that. So, there will be better answers!

[Crazy K]

4 bolts. 15 mm. impact socket on a breaker bar = FRIEND.

 

I never used a puller, but have used a hammer and chunk of wood to seperate the cv shaft from the wheel bearing.

[slick]

Ahh.. 4 bolts. Yeah, I vaguely remember it now, when a few of the studs broke off of my 94 GP :|

[Crazy K]

p.s. abs sensor can be ab issue too. it can be frozen to the hub.

[mra32]

Ive swapped out a hub in less than 45 minutes. I also did 2 hubs and balljoints in under 3 hours at a slow pace. I have practice with the front end though.

 

I think all you need really is the 35mm (36mm?) socket for the axle nut, and a 15mm socket for the hub bolts. Oh yeah, youre probably gonna need the T-60 to take off the brake too. I got my axle unseated from the hub by tapping it in toward the car with a regular old hammer. For some reason the hub bolts have at least like 1/2" of thread sticking out on the other side (a real pet peeve of mine with gm cars) so you might have accumulated some rust there and it might be a workout to get all 4 out, but it shouldnt be that bad.

 

phoenixz34 has a page on this that is fairly helpful. let me see if i can find it.

 

no dice on that page, but i wouldnt worry about tapping the axle with a hammer, it shouldnt take too much force to unseat it, but its not like youre going to be tapping straight into your differential, since your suspension would most likely be at full droop anyway

[xtremerevolution]

Ive swapped out a hub in less than 45 minutes. I also did 2 hubs and balljoints in under 3 hours at a slow pace. I have practice with the front end though.

 

I think all you need really is the 35mm (36mm?) socket for the axle nut, and a 15mm socket for the hub bolts. Oh yeah, youre probably gonna need the T-60 to take off the brake too. I got my axle unseated from the hub by tapping it in toward the car with a regular old hammer. For some reason the hub bolts have at least like 1/2" of thread sticking out on the other side (a real pet peeve of mine with gm cars) so you might have accumulated some rust there and it might be a workout to get all 4 out, but it shouldnt be that bad.

 

phoenixz34 has a page on this that is fairly helpful. let me see if i can find it.

 

no dice on that page, but i wouldnt worry about tapping the axle with a hammer, it shouldnt take too much force to unseat it, but its not like youre going to be tapping straight into your differential, since your suspension would most likely be at full droop anyway

 

Thanks. Got the T-60 and the breaker bar. Now I just need to figure out which socket to buy; if its the 35mm or the 36mm. I'll probably end up buying new studs anyway since I'm too lazy to hammer the old ones out, and I've already replaced all of the studs on the rear wheels.

 

Thanks for the help guys.

[mra32]

THE TIMKEN HUBS COME WITH STUDS!

 

i have a 36mm 6 point and it definitely works fine. I think other people say its 35mm. I'm not about to jack my car up and take my wheel off and measure the nut....but 36 works fine and there is nothing wrong with my axle nut having used that size a couple times.

[Crazy K]

what he said. technically a 35mm, but 36 sockets are fine. AZ and Advance loan them.

 

tip: I break the axle sockets loose with a breaker bar, but sometime it helps to install a steelie or spare tire and lower the vehicle to the ground to break it loose.

[xtremerevolution]

what he said. technically a 35mm, but 36 sockets are fine. AZ and Advance loan them.

 

tip: I break the axle sockets loose with a breaker bar, but sometime it helps to install a steelie or spare tire and lower the vehicle to the ground to break it loose.

 

Good tip, thanks. I never would have thought of that.

 

I do have a great breaker bar, and I'll probably buy the socket since I like having a plethora of tools to work on my car.

[SigEpCutlass]

Having a breaker bar makes things so much easier for certain things on these cars. I need to do this probably for 2 hubs, but I've been living with an occasional noisy wheel bearing until the next time I do the brakes.

[mra32]

i actually have a funny trick for breaking the axle nuts loose. once the car is all jacked up and i've gotten everything off until i need to take the axle nut off, i start the car up, and ram something between the seat and brake pedal to press on the brakes. Works every time. I've had to come up with some pretty wacky stuff while working on my car by myself with only basic tools in addition to the jack and jackstands i have.

 

people have also said to stick a screwdriver in the vent holes of the rotor and have it butt up against the caliper when you turn the nut. i'm not as fond of that idea

[BXX]

i actually have a funny trick for breaking the axle nuts loose. once the car is all jacked up and i've gotten everything off until i need to take the axle nut off, i start the car up, and ram something between the seat and brake pedal to press on the brakes. Works every time. I've had to come up with some pretty wacky stuff while working on my car by myself with only basic tools in addition to the jack and jackstands i have.

 

people have also said to stick a screwdriver in the vent holes of the rotor and have it butt up against the caliper when you turn the nut. i'm not as fond of that idea

 

Ive been known to use my large prybar, lock it between 2 studs and bust the nut off the axle with a 2 foot breaker bar... this is at the junkyard of course