cutlsp Posted August 22, 2003 Report Share Posted August 22, 2003 okay i got a couple of problems with my cutlass right now. the first thing i have to fix before i do anything else is the brakes. does any one have any tips for doing this? the pedal is extremely soft and the brakes don't work at all. i got new brake hoses and calipers on the rear but i don't know why they won't work. i need help before tomorrow other wise i'll have to pay a mechanic to fix it. i can't afford that though and i need the car by monday. please help me out here i need all the info i can get i do have the gm repair manual to it but i don't know what its describing to do on the brakes. also has anyone bored there cars 2.8 .60 over or more leaving it with the 2.8 size camshaft and push rods? and what is the maximum you can bore that 2.8 over safely? but my main concern right now is the brakes thats what i need help with asap okay thanks bye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilsdawg Posted August 22, 2003 Report Share Posted August 22, 2003 not to sound dumb--did you bleed the air out of the new lines? if yes, check for vac leak in brake booster. Or leaking fluid on or around the fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted August 22, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2003 of course i bled the air out of the new lines and check out the vac hoses on it it doesn't have any leaks. also the rear calipers aren't touching the rotors with the brake pads. i don't know how to fix that i'm sure thats the source of my problems not the brake lines them selves they are not leaking its just a pain in the ass with parking brake disc brakes. i honestly don't know how to work on parking brake disc brakes i'm more used to drum brakes :?. oh well can any one tell me how to fix the rear brakes i'm look toward phantom fe3 for help he has done this to his car i think. at least i hope he posts here if not i'll pm him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topless94style Posted August 22, 2003 Report Share Posted August 22, 2003 If one side isnt touch the disc then the slide pins might be jammed. I had that problem try takin them apart and putting a shit load of antiseize on them dotn get it on anthing but the pins though. Try bleeding the system again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted August 22, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2003 well thats not the problem neither of the pads are touching the rotors i need to know how to adjust the calipers beacause they are brand new and sunk all the way in. that is what is wrong i think not anything like the brakes hoses or any other hoses for that matter i think its the calipers themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaPaPooh Posted August 22, 2003 Report Share Posted August 22, 2003 did you bleed the lines or the lines threw the calipers cause you have a problem if you bled them they should be touching im not sure how to adjust them but i hope this helps thats all i can come up with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topless94style Posted August 23, 2003 Report Share Posted August 23, 2003 Make sure your brake fluid is full. You just might have bad calipers but i dont see how you buy 2 new ones and they both end up being bad. The only other thing i can think of is to take releave the pressure take them off and lube everything put em back on and bleed the system again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted August 23, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2003 okay thanks but i've bled the brake lines about 4 times already i special orders those parts the brake lines and the calipers i don't know but they did have a tag on them that said they need to be adjusted properly so i bet there is some sort of glue holding it in place to that bolt or they are attacted to is frozen.i don't know for sure but i'm going to try that tomorrow i think that is the problem i sure hope it is i miss my cutlass that was once a offical pace car replica. i hate not driving it i know it wants to get out of that cramped garage asap. i hope that those calipers piston assemblys are frozen to the actuator screws inside of them. well some body let me know what they think? i bet thats the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topless94style Posted August 23, 2003 Report Share Posted August 23, 2003 I bet that is the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted August 23, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2003 thats what i'm talking about i got the gm repair manual for my car so i just really looked it over and it says to leave the e-bracket off while i adjust the actuator screw on the inside of the calipers i hope it fixes them i've been with out my car for over 3 weeks as of today :dammit: i want my car back now i saw a couple of ricers that my cutlass could have easily smoked. i really hate this deal with my cars brakes :cuss: had to go out 4 weeks before college started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolt_Crank Posted August 23, 2003 Report Share Posted August 23, 2003 for awhile, I was diving my Z with brakes on 3 wheels.... 'cuz when I changed my front pads, I forgot to re-torque the torx bits down.... and one bolt fell out while I was on the road... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted August 23, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2003 okay thanks for the tip but thats not the sort of problem i'm having with my car. the problem is there is about a centimeter of space on both sides of the rotors on the rear and for some reason the front disc brakes were working before i replaced the rear brake hoses and calipers stoped working after i got done with the rear brake caliper replacement. also today i can't work on it cuss my stupid sister choose a bad apartment complex and has to move all her shit out of there before they decide to get a lock smith and take all her shit even though she isn't in debit to them. :x :cuss: :dammit: :verymad: i'm really pissed off right now i don't want to drive my truck to school it isn't as cool as my cutlass. oh well fuck it i hate being the one always voulentered for shit like this my car needs me! i don't care anymore! all i care about is my car! screw everything else! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted August 23, 2003 Report Share Posted August 23, 2003 Are you bleeding it yourself? When I bleed my car by myself, I use a one man bleeder kit. The kit contains a plastic cup connected to a clear hose and the hose is connected to a 90 degree rubber which is plugged in the bleeder screw. I usually get 2 (two) large brake fluid bottle when I am bleeding my car. The reason being is that brake fluid needs changing approx. 2 years or less. I use that bleeder kit because it is easier for me to bleed the brake system and I can see through the clear hose if there are still bubbles coming out or not. I pump the brake pedal 3-4 times slowly and check the clear hose for bubbles and continue another 3-4 pumps on the brake pedal and check the clear hose until there are not traces of bubbles in the clear hose and then I tighten the bleeder screw. Do the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Note: don't use a regular when opening or closing the bleeder screw because you will strip it. Purchase and use the right brake bleeder screw wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilsdawg Posted August 25, 2003 Report Share Posted August 25, 2003 could also have blockedge in distrubution valve inbetween the lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomFE3 Posted August 25, 2003 Report Share Posted August 25, 2003 alright sorry i havent been able to reply to this, but i havent done anything to my brakes yet, i just went to tires plus and got an estimate and to see whats wrong. im gonna go and get the parts priced at an auto parts store on tuesday (have to work tomorrow) and see what they will give them to me for. sorry i couldnt help with your brakes, ive only done brake work on the rear brakes of a mustang (drums) and thats the extent of my brake work knowledge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted August 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 okay i know i don't have any blockage in the lines thr brake fluid flows out smoothly and clean. the rear brake calipers are not work even though they are new. so how do those one man brake bleeding kits work i have one but don't know how to work it . can any body tell me how to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted August 28, 2003 Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 If you have a bleeder kit that contains a plastic reservoir, a hose, a rubber connector and a vacuum pump, I'd say just use the plastic reservoir with a hose/rubber connector and don't use the vacuum pump. Use the brake pedal instead to pump out the fluid when bleeding. Raise up the car and put 4 jackstands around the four corners of the car and remove all 4 wheels/tire. Use a brake bleeder wrench (get it from autoparts store) and never use a regular wrench to open or close the bleeder screw because regular wrench will strip it. Put the brake bleeder wrench in the bleeder screw and put/snap in the rubber connector on top of the bleeder screw. That rubber connector should be connected to the clear hose and other end of the hose is connected to the plastic reservoir. Make sure you put the plastic reservoir in higher elevation than the bleeder screw. The reason for putting the plastic reservoir higher than the bleeder screw is that when the bubbles comes out, you must let the bubbles come out going up and so preventing the bubbles from going back in the bleeder screw. Once the bleeder kit is setup, now turn the wrench to loosen the bleeder screw 1/4 increments. Try pumping the brake pedal slowly but push it as far as it will go and then check the bleeder kit hose and see if the fluid is flowing. If the brake fluid is flowing then continue pumping the brake fluid 3 times and check the bleeder kit hose again to make sure there are no more bubbles present in the hose. Tighten up the bleeder screw and take out the bleeder kit and empty it. Don't forget to top off the brake fluid master cylinder. If the brake fluid is not flowing when you pump the brake pedal then loosen the bleeder screw 1/4 turn again and try pumping the brake pedal again until the brake fluid flows through the bleeder kit hose. The reason why you don't want to loosen the bleeder screw too much is that air can get in around the bleeder screw threads and you will get air bubbles and bleeding will never get done. Bleed from Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front. Make sure you have at least 2 large bottle of brake fluid when bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaPaPooh Posted August 28, 2003 Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 in manual trans class at school i saw a pump that you could bleed from the bleeder screw to the reservoir it was a nice hand drivin pump i can't remember the name of it wait phoenix industries makes it all air in fluid goes up so there is no chance for air in the line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted August 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 :shock: oh shit thats what i have that is who made my pump :? really weird i wonder why it wont work i miss my car. anyways thanks Slade901 i now know how to fix my car where were you 3 weeks ago? i needed help back then :? but its better late then never Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted September 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2003 Good news my car's brakes are working finally after about 3 weeks. i got my fast little cutlass back i havn't run it at the strip since i rebuilt the original motor it been bored .60 over and kept the 2.8 stroke except it has a racing 2.8 camshaft and a underdrive pulley set a new cold air intake and poly Urethane dog bones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thabulldog Posted September 2, 2003 Report Share Posted September 2, 2003 ah who needs 4 wheels worth of brakes? i got the 2 front workin n the 2 rear got the infamous freeze... oh well 2 is all u need! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted September 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2003 my car can stop faster thats why i fixed all 4 brakes i'd hate to be in front of you because i'll be stopped and you would still be braking to stop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thabulldog Posted September 2, 2003 Report Share Posted September 2, 2003 Yeah but front brakes do somethin like 80% of the braking anyways so as long as u keep the fronts really good the rears only matter for backing up, i just dont back up fast so that covers me there lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted September 4, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2003 i back up really fast when i'm clear to go thats the way i have to drive in texas. also its kinda hard here ppl almost run into my car all the fuckin time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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