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Goodbye Honda; Hello Turbo Grand Prix!!!


Harleyman

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I am psyched!! I just sold our 2001 Honda Accord and will pay $3,500 (cash) for a sweet 1990 Grand Prix Turbo. The car arrives in just one week from that Liberal playground known as Oregon.

 

Despite the Grand Prix being pretty fast bone stock, I am looking for relatively low-cost performance suggestions. I may want to autocross the car on weekends in Idaho (elev. 4,800 feet). Any ideas?

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First I would heavily suggest doing a full tune-up before any performance mods.

 

Basics

Oil/filter change.

Tranny fluid/gasket/filter change.

Fuel filter/pump change.

Switch from inbox paper filter to K&N cone filter [#RU-1760].

AC Delco spark plugs gapped at 0.045 [AC Delco #R42LTS].

New fan belt.

Have GM TopEngine cleaner run through motor.

New PCV valve.

Coolant system flush.

 

After you get all that done, email Jeff Middaugh and BUY a new cross-x pipe from him for around $475, and get the rear main oil drive seal while you're at it [don't get the GM one, it costs $1,400 and it'll crack on you again]. Best investment you'll make for your car. The stock one will be cracked and will cause all kinds of headache for you and your car, and the new seal will stop the small oil leak you have. After you get the pipe installed, get a new O2 sensor.

 

Since your factory cross-x pipe was/is cracked, it probably did a number to your factory cat. I'd suggest getting a high-flow cat.

 

I'd also suggest replacing your stock worn out struts for KYB GR-2 struts from http://www.tirerack.com. Monroe Reflex are just as good, but cost a lot more. Also suggest getting new strut mounts from KYB at http://www.tirerack.com. Before you get your rear struts installed, head over to your local parts store and get two rear strut cushions to protect them from the elements.

 

The car probably has the stock rear brakes, the crap ones. Go to your mechanic and ask them to install new brass/copper rear caliper sleeves. They won't seeze up on you like the factory ones. It isn't that much, and it's much cheaper then replacing your whole rear brake system.

 

Free Mods

Ok, now that your car is running good, it's time to do some free mods!

 

Remove your whole intake set-up and clean it out real good with degreaser. Make sure the degreaser you use isn't harmful to aluminum. Wash out your intercooler with degreaser untill the water comes out clear.

Let all the parts dry FULLY.

 

While your intercooler is out, now is a good time to remove some A/C condensor fins to free up airflow to your intercooler. Don't worry, doing this won't effect your A/C's ability to cool. Grab a pair of needle noise pliers and some drinks. Between the radiator and the left side of the car, you'll see the A/C condensor.

 

Here's a how-to for this mod. http://aldridgec.home.att.net/TGP/Engine/intercooler_mod.htm

 

Cheap Mods

Stop by your local GM dealer and ask for a 98+ Buick F-Bar. This is a strut tower brace made for 98+ Buick Regal's, but it'll fit your car with a little drilling. Don't say strut tower brace, they'll look confused. Here's the parts number (#12456148). Don't use the locking washers that come with the kit, they are a pain to remove if you work on your car [which you will be]. They go for about $25.

 

You can also get 97+ Grand Prix GM Performance Parts tubular rear trailing arms. They are much stronger then the flimsy stamped steel arms you have right now. It would probably be safe to say that you might even have a bent rear trailing arm right now. They are about $40 a peice [you need two]. Parts #12498649.

 

New tires are always good too.

 

Moderate Priced Mods

If you want better off the line acceleration, get some billet aluminum dog-bone motor mounts from http://www.fastfwdperformance.com They are $120 for a set and come with polyurethance bushings. You'll feel a huge improvement when you first drive with them. They keep the motor from moving much better then stock steel ones, won't rust, and look a lot better.

 

If you feel adventuress, you can also get the underdrive pully from http://www.fastfwdperformance.com About $130 for one. You'll also need a new belt. They have results of 5whp with just the pully.

 

Now's a good time for a new exhaust. You already have a new cat by now, so now it's time to ditch that stock pipe and loose the stock mufflers. I'd suggest a 2.5" exhaust. If you want a stock like sounding exhaust with slight rumble, Dynomax SuperTurbo or Flowmaster 40series is good. If you want the world to know you're coming, get the Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers. Tips are up to you. I had my exhaust done with 2.5" dual pipe for $250 minus the cost of the mufflers, tips, and cat.

 

Hope you enjoy your new car, and if you do all the basics first, you'll be headed in the right direction!

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The cheapest bang for your buck is the K&N cone filter (or similar type).

This cone lets the turbo spool up MUUUch faster. If you are going to go autocrossing there are larger sway bars such as Addco or a Z34 front original bar. B4 you go autocrossing or high speed running, there is a strong suggestion from Jeff M. and his transmission guru friend that these trans. should be filled with 4 extra quarts of trans fluid, :shock: yes 4 extra quarts of trans fluid in order to keep things lubed around corners. Dont do a top speed 4th gear run or you'll burn out the 4th clutch quick.

 

Does your TGP have a sunroof ? If not you'll have better handling and excelleration. How about some details of your car, like color,miles,mods.

some more info is available on the another TGP forum at netavalanche.com/tgp . Don't forget the search feature.

Thanks 90TGP for reminding me to change my fan belt. :wink: And I might replace the accy. belt at the same time.

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Not bad writeup except for one thing. The exhaust cannot be a true 2.5". You need to retain the 2.25 downpipe since the flange does not allow a 2.5" pipe. I used a 3" pipe from the downpipe back til the split and it's 2.5 into the two muflers.

 

When you do the tune up you need to tilt the engine forward to get the rear three spark plugs. I used a ratcheting tiedown to force the engine forward and used the small hole in the dogbone to keep it forward while working on it.

 

Check you brake master. It's garbage hopefully it's not leaking like mine was.

 

Welcome to the land of real enthusiast.

 

Tst Tst Honda lost another one. HE HE

 

Regards Adam S.

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Wow!! Great advice!! The red car I am purchasing for $3,500 has 94,000 miles and is equipped with everything that was offered in 1990 (incl. sun roof) with the exception of the rear spoiler. It is my dad's car and he is meticulous about his autos. He ran Mobile One synthetic oil in the car since he bought it in 1992 with just 14,000 miles. The car has brand new tires from Tire Rack. This will be my main driver to and from work. My wife will drive our 2003 Chevy crew cab 4x4 pickup. The last sporty car I owned was a 1967 RS Camaro with a 1993 police interceptor LT-1 engine (B4C option) and a 4L60E transmission. This car was an absolute screamer that blew the doors off brand new Vettes. I sold it in 2000 and paid off my 1999 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic. I just sold the Harley last week and the 2001 Honda Accord this week. Lots of changes! The new toy will be a lot of fun. The Grand Prix turbo has always been a favorite of mine and I am stoked about owning one. I'll post pics when I get the car. Again, thanks everyone for the quality advice and support.

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i have a 67 camaro, not an RS though, base model. its got a built 250 straight 6. personally, my dream car is a 67 camaro RS painted hugger orange, and a big block to top it all off. thats what im gonna get when i retire

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About the only that was not mentioned was JeffM's Topgun 160 performance chip, a must heve if you want to get serious about playing with the car...

 

I was thinking the same thing.

 

HOW CAN YOU POSSIBLY FORGET THE TOPGUN CHIP IN A MOD SUGGESTION LIST???

 

my dream car is a 67 camaro RS painted hugger orange, and a big block to top it all off. thats what im gonna get when i retire

 

Thinking a little far into the future are we?

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I didn't mention the chip because I thought it would be better to get his car running in tip top shape first.

 

But anyway, Jeff Middaugh also makes and sells a chip called the TopGun chip. It will vastly increase your horsepower/torque, change your ignition and fuel maps, and greatly improve over all daily driving. It's $275 and requires a new, colder thermostat [usually 160 or 180]. I would suggest getting the chip AFTER doing the basics and the cross-x pipe to fully utilize its features.

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90TGP, you did an excellent job writing that up, and I wasn't knocking it in any way, I just thought that I would dangle the carrot in front of the horse and get him excited... I remember getting my first TGP, almost 7 years ago... and now I have 5 :yak: :yikes: :lol2: :cheers: :cheers:

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