19Cutlass94 Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 and needless to say there not FFP coilovers anymore, there Jason coilovers Anyone else have problems with their coilovers? Im hoping this is the last time I do this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 How are you rebuilding coilovers?? Struts just blow or are the mounts crap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 If its stuts blowing out, the main reason it due to how the upper part of the spring seats. Under compression, which causes a camber change, the lower part of the spring stays perpendicular to the strut rod as it should, but the upper part of the spring doesnt since its parrellel with the seat at the mount which never changes angle under a camber change. This causes the spring to actually bind on one side (its not compressing properly) and this puts sideloading force on the strut rod. In the end,this wears the hell outta the seals on the strut and your spring rate does things it shouldnt since its not compressing parrellel as it should Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 One strut is good and one is bad. The top bushings are toast. and I wanted to raise it up, but the adjuster and sleeve are like welded together so I just bought new shit. and I wanted a heavier spring rate as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 So what are you looking to do? make new upper bushings/mounts? what spring rates are you going with? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Im going with a 300lb spring rather than the 250lb. I have the new bushings for the top ( which i have to cut ) but why do they wear so damn fast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Why did you have to rebuild them the first time? That sucks though man, let us know how it goes and take pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Im going with a 300lb spring rather than the 250lb. I have the new bushings for the top ( which i have to cut ) but why do they wear so damn fast? I have QA1 300lb springs on mine. They ride pretty good actually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Im going with a 300lb spring rather than the 250lb. I have the new bushings for the top ( which i have to cut ) but why do they wear so damn fast? I have QA1 300lb springs on mine. They ride pretty good actually Thats what spring I ordered, QA1. I thought the 250lb was pretty soft. So lets hope the 300lb is better. Why did you have to rebuild them the first time? That sucks though man, let us know how it goes and take pics! I had to rebuild them the first time because the bushings on the top broke. Like actually spilt and tore off the mount. So now I have all brand new bushings on the top, although I just found out I ordered the wron bushing for the top mount where the spring sits so I just had to order another one. Looks like my car will be down for atleast a week now.. That and I had to adjust my sway bar cuz it moved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 I have 300 on the rear and 350 on the front, you should be happy with the change. Is it just the poly part of the mount that is wearing out? I haven't experienced any fast wear on the held designed mounts... Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 yeah its the poly. The one side is crushed so bad the spring is almost touching the aluminum mount. The mounts themselves are in good shape, other than being dirty. I duno what it is about the poly bushings that FFP used, but it seems like they wore out quick and from what Ive read everyone has had a problem with em. I think the Held are MUCH better designed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern8tion9l Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 dude you have the worst luck with these things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 your not kidding. Most of the problem was the sway bar though. Now thats fixed. And since the CO's are out, I might as well fix whats wrong with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 your not kidding. Most of the problem was the sway bar though. Now thats fixed. And since the CO's are out, I might as well fix whats wrong with them. Gen 1.5 22mm sway bar is the way to go, thats what im running. Since your going that far with your suspension, you really should install some Gen 2 adjustable lateral links. Once installed, the Gen 1.5 bar is a cake walk (i.e. bolt in) and after alignment (camber adjust to bring it back positive) you are left with a wider track the proper way. No more crappy borderline unsafe wheel spacers and the wheel looks much better pushed farther out of the wheel well. I have coilovers, 300lb springs, Gen 1.5 22mm bar, Gen 2 lateral links with GMPP trailing arms and a RSTB and it all works fine, handles awsome, and looks much better than the wheel sunk clear in the wheel well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 The problem with the sway bar is that it was rubbing and wasnt centered. I dont have the money for lateral links. I have more important things to spend money on than those. BTW, my 7/8" sway bar measures 22.225mm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 The problem with the sway bar is that it was rubbing and wasnt centered. I dont have the money for lateral links. I have more important things to spend money on than those. BTW, my 7/8" sway bar measures 22.225mm... The Gen 1.5 bar is 7/8", appx 22mm smartass I can get you a set of the lateral links cheap. I got mine from pull a part, and, well, I ended up paying $17 for the set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc v6 Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 LOL helds are better. Thats a good one. Seriously if your mounts are blowing, shoot me a PM. I can build you a custom set for cheap with a spherical bearing in them so they dont blow the shock. Also they will be all metal no rubber to go out. like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 LOL helds are better. Thats a good one. Seriously if your mounts are blowing, shoot me a PM. I can build you a custom set for cheap with a spherical bearing in them so they dont blow the shock. Also they will be all metal no rubber to go out. like this. You have the right idea, the upper spring seat stays perpendicular to the strut rod so the spring compresses in a linear fashion. I would love a set like that Mark, but I need the control arms first, and first things first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2008 Do I have to drop the rear subframe to get lateral links in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted December 21, 2008 Report Share Posted December 21, 2008 Do I have to drop the rear subframe to get lateral links in? Yup, Its 4 bolts. Its a cake walk. I did in in my garage with the rear end jacked up. Just remember the 2 10mm screws for the brake line clips up top. A wrench makes easy work of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 Ill check it out sometime soon. I just wanna get this thing together. Im tired of looking at it on jackstands... Although now with less then a 1/4 tank of gas would be a good time to change the fuel pump. The last week half the time it wont prime.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted December 22, 2008 Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 Whats the thrust rating on those bearings? If its stuts blowing out, the main reason it due to how the upper part of the spring seats. Under compression, which causes a camber change, the lower part of the spring stays perpendicular to the strut rod as it should, but the upper part of the spring doesnt since its parrellel with the seat at the mount which never changes angle under a camber change. This causes the spring to actually bind on one side (its not compressing properly) and this puts sideloading force on the strut rod. In the end,this wears the hell outta the seals on the strut and your spring rate does things it shouldnt since its not compressing parrellel as it should Dont forget about the stock mount sideloading the strut, In my coilovers (TDC) the upper spring perch is sitting on the stock mount. So while the spring doesnt add any side loads, it still has the same side loads that a stock design has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted December 26, 2008 Report Share Posted December 26, 2008 I'm thinking about getting some 300 lb springs too... when I rebuild mine next summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted January 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 So two weeks later I still dont have my bushings and Im still looking at my car on jackstands... I had to hone out the sleeves since they were a tad too small, got the new springs, Im raising the the back of the car up about 3/4" since it kinda looks like the back sits lower, but basically just waiting on those bushings.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc v6 Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Off topic. MR32a, the bearings are rated at 16,900 lbs radial. Also they are lined with PTFE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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