1996 3.4L DOHC Reliabilty

[harrydunn]

I've heard more than a few times that the 3.4L LQ1 takes more maintenance than a 3100 to keep running but if you take care of it, it will take care of you which I fully believe is the case with most engines. What kinds of things specificially require more attention on a 3.4L than the 3100 (1996, let's say) to make them a reliable engine? Are we just talking regular oil changes here? I've heard some people say to stay away from them altogether if you're looking for reliability. Just looking for a little input.

 

Thanks.

[MikeP2389]

timing belt, alternator, oring and the rest is oretty much basic maintenance.

[Crazy K]

it is not a chrysler 2.7, it does not normally grenade itself under regular use with normal maintenance.

 

Basically the issue is if you neglect any motor is will bite you in the rear. the bad thing is the LQ1 repairs and maintenance is much more costly. Timing belt and alternator are both expensive to do on this motor. Also, IIRC the 96 and 97 motor are confirmed interference motors, so if a T belt breaks, you may be screwed.

[White93z34]

a 1996 3.4 will have improved cam cogs, that help the belt wear better.

 

every 60,000 miles recommended timing belt change, you can generally go about 70,000 before having to worry though

yes, the timing belt is kinda expensive to replace. about $300ish give or take in parts.

yeah the alternator is kinda a pain in the ass, but not like they go all that often anyhow.

the o ring leak is a pain, but if you do one of the many fixes discussed here it is not very expensive to fix provided you do your own work.

oh, and the spark plugs, you have to pull the plenum to get to the rear ones, but thats not a difficult job

 

i got nearly 100,000mi out of mine before it spun a bearing at 193,000mi I kinda expected more, and we have seen plenty on this board go over the 200,000mi mark

 

all things said, getting a 3.4 over a 3100 is a no brainier for me

 

[GP1138]

The extra boost in power of the 3.4L is worth it, IMO. Much more noticeable passing power, and I think the timing job is easy as long as you follow the steps. It looks more imposing than it is, but once you remove the large intake plenum, it becomes much more manageable.

[LuckoftheGTP]

I changed the rear plugs on my Z and GTP w/out removing the plenum. It's a pain in the @ss cause its tight but a few extentions did it just fine. If you keep an eye on the oil. (both my DOHC's leak) you should be ok.

[White93z34]

I changed the rear plugs on my Z and GTP w/out removing the plenum. It's a pain in the @ss cause its tight but a few extentions did it just fine. If you keep an eye on the oil. (both my DOHC's leak) you should be ok.

 

you can do that with a 91-95 3.4 a 1996 has a different intake plenum setup

[GOT2B GM]

but removing the plenum is actually easier on a 96-97 because of the detachable throttle body.

[chadz34]

Owning and putting 40,000kms on a 96 LQ1, the engine itself is the least of the worries, more noticeable faults are in steering components and brakes.