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having to hold key a bit longer on cold days - LQ1


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I always intend to, but never quite do... flip the key to run, pause for a second to build a bit of fuel pressure, and then start the motor, mostly for the very first start in a day or too or more.

 

 

might see if that would make a difference?

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I always intend to, but never quite do... flip the key to run, pause for a second to build a bit of fuel pressure, and then start the motor, mostly for the very first start in a day or too or more.

 

 

might see if that would make a difference?

 

I do that...starts the same as if it was 90 out. I never have any cranking issues when it's cold.

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also an idea I have pondered...

 

I used to hear of a pre-oiler for engines, consisting of a oil line to a remote high pressure reservoir, with a seloid that powers on and off with the car. maybe if also has a one way check vale too? The idea is that when you go to start the car, the selonoid opens and release the build up pressure held in the reservoir, and gives you instance oil pressure, before cranking begins. = less resistance on start up.

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I always intend to, but never quite do... flip the key to run, pause for a second to build a bit of fuel pressure, and then start the motor, mostly for the very first start in a day or too or more.

 

 

might see if that would make a difference?

 

I do that 100% of the time.

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I always intend to, but never quite do... flip the key to run, pause for a second to build a bit of fuel pressure, and then start the motor, mostly for the very first start in a day or too or more.

 

 

might see if that would make a difference?

 

I do that 100% of the time.

x2. Wait until everything finishes priming and the chime stops until you crank it.

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My L27 usually turns over half a rotation and fires right up on warm days. Now that it's 20's 30's and 40's out it turns over 2 to 3 rotations (revolutions whatever) before it starts. And I have new plug wires.

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I always intend to, but never quite do... flip the key to run, pause for a second to build a bit of fuel pressure, and then start the motor, mostly for the very first start in a day or too or more.

 

 

might see if that would make a difference?

 

I do that 100% of the time.

x2. Wait until everything finishes priming and the chime stops until you crank it.

 

I do that sometimes, but not all of the time. My GP's fire instantly, you barely hear the starter turn the engine at all. :lol:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Mine just started doing this. After this happened the first time, I put a fresh battery in not knowing the history of the previous battery thinking that was it. I've had the car two winters and have not had this issue. I have cleaned the starter/charging wires and connections per writeup. What I've noticed is the volt meter climbs slowly to just above 8 volts. If I try to start as normal, it just dims the lights and does not turn over. All the other gauges and lights look fine. This morning, I let the car sit about 30 secs with the ign sw in the ON position and it starts. This seems to me to be some resistance, perhaps in the starter/solenoid. I'm referring to a no-crank condition until the ignition switch has been on for a longer than ususal time. Could it be the starter?

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How do you leave a power mirror on?

 

I don't know mine cranks pretty shitty I need to take some vids. I don't know what the problem has been.

 

I just wired it to the existing maplight wires. I have to change the wiring so it's switched rather than constant. I'm just too lazy to get out there and do it.

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Ok thats what I thought.

 

My car starts fine, it just sounds like the battery is going to die. I don't know what the issue is, could be the wiring from my alt, could be alot of things.

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