Power drain

[xtremerevolution]

My buddy has a 98 Monte Carlo with a 3100 and 120,000 ish miles.

 

Long story short, the car has been sitting for a year. He recently wanted to get it running again, but discovered that the battery was dead. So he took it in to an auto place and the battery was so dead that they couldn't even get it charged again.

 

So he bought a new battery and installed it recently. I jump started him yesterday, and after 1 year of sitting, it took a while for the car to start up. Each time we'd try to start the car, it would turn over for half a second, and then you'd hear nothing but a constant repetitive loud clicking noise. This was exactly what I had heard when I was having my electrical issue on the Regal where the battery-aux terminal post was loose, and the alternator wasn't getting enough power. Not sure how, but we eventually got it to start. Today he tried to start the car again and the battery was completely dead.

 

After replacing the original battery, the guys at the auto place told him that he had a shorted wire somewhere.

 

Now I figure they're right, because I started him up yesterday, left the car on for 20 minutes, then went out for another 30 minute drive, and now the battery is dead again. However, I wouldn't know where to start to diagnose this issue. Are there any common areas that I can look at to check for shorted wires? Are there any methods through which I can check which wires might be shorted? He did mention at one point that before this, his door locks would "flicker" on and off unexpectedly. I'd imagine one of the wires for the door locks could be stripped and touching the metal.

 

Any ideas or pointers as to where I can start would be appreciated.

 

My first hints were that the "big 4" wires should probably be inspected and possibly replaced, as the car has been sitting for a year now and may have accrued corrosion and rust over time. The thing is, this still doesn't explain the battery drain, and its a brand new battery.

[kwk39018]

I had the same issue in my 94 cavy. I just pulled the door lock fuses and it never happened again.

[xtremerevolution]

Update...

 

He texted me again and noted that when we jumped it yesterday, the locks would go off when the power was added.

 

I had the same issue in my 94 cavy. I just pulled the door lock fuses and it never happened again.

 

Hmm, so the door lock fuse wasn't burned?

 

Anyway, for the time being I advise that he do the same thing. Thanks for that tip. He'll get back to me to let me know how that all went.

[kwk39018]

Fuses were fine when i pulled them.Didn't feel like tracking down the sort.Just lived without power locks.

[xtremerevolution]

Fuses were fine when i pulled them.Didn't feel like tracking down the sort.Just lived without power locks.

 

Alright, cool. He doesn't seem to be the type who would really care that the power locks don't work. Good tip.

[kwk39018]

Hope it helps.

[1990lumina]

Just wondering - but did you guys charge the new battery before jump starting and just letting the laternator charge it - it may not have charged it very much at all. It's always best to charge with a trickle charger(or any charger for that matter) rather than the alternator.

 

However, if his problem is still happening I suggest you guys connect a multimeter in series with the battery (put the voltmeter in line with one of the battery cables and the battery). Then start pulling fuses until you see a change - this is your suspect circuit.

 

Edit: I guess you can call that a parasitic draw test in case you want to read further on how it's done

[carkhz316]

Just wondering - but did you guys charge the new battery before jump starting and just letting the laternator charge it - it may not have charged it very much at all. It's always best to charge with a trickle charger(or any charger for that matter) rather than the alternator.

 

However, if his problem is still happening I suggest you guys connect a multimeter in series with the battery (put the voltmeter in line with one of the battery cables and the battery). Then start pulling fuses until you see a change - this is your suspect circuit.

 

Edit: I guess you can call that a parasitic draw test in case you want to read further on how it's done

X2 You are absolutely correct on that. "Parasitic draw test". Tips though: Make sure meter is set to AMPS, inbetween +bat post and +cable, and Do not open a door, (or have the dome light fuse pulled before this), or turn anything else on, because it will most likely blow the fuse (if equipped) in your meter as most are only rated to handle 10 Amps max.