Few minor issue's with the TGP

[slick]

First set of issue's, which think are all related. Took it out for a drive today, just to keep the battery charged up, and the engine lubricated, noticed that the heater would only blow on vent. Also noticed that while sitting at stop lights, the idle would fluctuate 100-150 RPM. I'm 100% positive it is a vacuum leak somewhere. So.... where's the common leak places on these engines? The owner before Luke was RTV crazy on all of his vacuum T's and joints, so I had planned on replacing the lines, T's, and joints as it was, but I'd like to figure out where the leak is before I do it. Also, while I'm at it, are the T's and Joint's TGP specific, or just Help! brand stuff works good?

 

Second set of issue's. Come to stop at a red light, fan speed drops, headlights dim, and DIC pulses. So yeah, I already figure that I need to go ahead and upgrade the main cable's in the engine bay. While I'm at it, maybe I will go ahead and upgrade the alternator, and relocate the battery to the trunk. Any upgrades ready to bolt on?

 

Last issue really isn't an issue, except that the TGP give's me a heavier foot

[AL]

Second set of issue's. Come to stop at a red light, fan speed drops, headlights dim, and DIC pulses. So yeah, I already figure that I need to go ahead and upgrade the main cable's in the engine bay. While I'm at it, maybe I will go ahead and upgrade the alternator, and relocate the battery to the trunk.

 

Sounds more like a battery problem than an alternator problem... The alternator can charge just fine but if the battery is shot... it wont accept the charge.

[TGP5sp90]

Now slick I found my Vacuum leak at the point behind the intake manifold just right of the purge solenoid. there's a T right in that area

[GOT2B GM]

pay particular attention to the vacuum lines that run close to the turbo. The heat is hard on the lines and they get brittle and break.

[slick]

Ok guys, thanks for the tips on the lines.

 

I'm going to measure voltage across the terminals tomorrow morning, after it's been sitting more than 15 hours in the cold. Also gonna check the start-up voltage (less than 10.5 during crank = need a new battery). The cable's are almost 20 years old as well, so those will be replaced among many many things going on with the car this winter.

[Addicted To Boost]

pay particular attention to the vacuum lines that run close to the turbo. The heat is hard on the lines and they get brittle and break.

Agreed. Pay close attention to the check valve next to the turbo and the rubber T.. not unheard of them to pop off in that area.

 

Go to the JY and find a W-body and pull the entire vacuum harness off of it.. hell pull several vac harnesses! Vacuum lines and connections will break down the line, and it is nice to have extras on hand.

[Garrett Powered]

or just Help! brand stuff works good?

 

 

 

YES!!!!

 

actually I prefer vacu-tite! brand if you can still get those.

[slick]

Ok, so how many T's and coupler should I pick up from the parts store, or is there never enough? Also, our lines are 1/8" or 1/4"?

[LukeZ34]

There's a vacuum line that would pop off right under the back of the UIM. You could hear the "hissing" of the vac leak coming from that area. Happened to me a couple of times, so may want to try looking there.

[slick]

There's a vacuum line that would pop off right under the back of the UIM. You could hear the "hissing" of the vac leak coming from that area. Happened to me a couple of times, so may want to try looking there.

 

Ok, cool, I'll look there first.

[Garrett Powered]

Ok, so how many T's and coupler should I pick up from the parts store, or is there never enough? Also, our lines are 1/8" or 1/4"?

 

you answered your own question.

 

I keep a tackle box dedicated to just that purpose.

[slick]

Hah, alright, i'll just pick up the multipack.

 

But yeah, whats the oem size- 1/8" or 1/4"? Or should I just measure it the next time I'm able to get out to storage to look at the car.

[Addicted To Boost]

There are different sized vac lines on the car. You will have to measure the size of the lines you need to replace.

[slick]

Say I was going to pick up several lengths, and sizes of vacuum lines, how much of each would be enough?

 

10ft of 1/8"

5ft of 1/4"

5ft of 3/16"

 

That sound like it should cover it all?

[mfewtrail]

As for the vacuum lines, there are a several different sizes like someone else above posted. The line going to the cruise control is often shot from the heat of the turbo. Also, keep following that line down behind the battery to the vacuum reservoir. The lines break a lot behind the battery area. New "vacuum spiders"(all the main hard plastic lines under/behind the plenum) should still be available from GM to replace all the main lines. I believe Ryan(R Dubya) had a few brand new ones that he was willing to part with. You might want to check with him. My Red TGP has a new vacuum spider that I think the previous owner purchased from him.

 

EDIT: Piecing them together if they're broken would work fine if you don't want to fully replace the vac spider. I'm not sure what lengths you'll need or sizes though. It's been a long time since I pieced one together(5yrs+). Do you have access to your car now? If not, I can look at mine tomorrow and see what size most of the lines are.

[slick]

I was going to try to just replace all the hard plastic lines with the rubber vacuum lines. I've had trouble on my other W's with these lines as well, and this car in particular really rely's on it, so I wanted to swap over.

 

I'm going to go look at my car today for an hour or two, so maybe I will take a look then.

[Night Fury]

^^^Good idea^^^ I broke another one last night. Electrical tape jerry-rig FTW

[mfewtrail]

When using rubber or silicone vacuum lines to replace the vacuum spider, you're going to want to make sure that they fit very snugly. Otherwise, you'll run the risk of blowing lines off under boost. I would maybe even zip-tie the lines to make sure they won't back off under boost.

[slick]

If I do end up going this route (which maybe I will just replace the known bad or suspected bad lines), I plan on using c-clamps to hold them down in place. I would only use the double or tripple walled rubber lines, not the single lines.

[GOT2B GM]

x2 on the zipties, they work well.

 

I even did where the stock vacuum lines end with rubber couplers (ie trans modular line, MAP sensor etc)

[slick]

Alright, I'll keep it all in mind.

 

What do you guys do to keep the vacuum "block" in place, that has the 4 ports, that go's into the TB? Mine's new, but I can tell it pulls itself out a little after driving.

[GOT2B GM]

Originally they came with a plastic clip that held them into the TB, but 99% of them got brittle, broke and fell off.

 

You could give the "barbed" section of the vacuum harness a thin coat of RTV before sticking it into the TB to help hold it in.

[slick]

Anyone have a picture of this clip?

 

Went and found my vacuum leak today. Pretty much not accessble without remove brackets on the backside of the intake plenum. Also figured out where I will be mounting the vacuum block, and used my micrometer to figure out different vacuum line sized.

[slick]

Probably just going to pick this up. Took measurements this morning, and oddly enough, these are the sizes I need.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VACUUM-HOSE-3-BOXS-7-64-5-32-7-32-50-FT-EA-NEW_W0QQitemZ190262347740QQihZ009QQcategoryZ42604QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[5speedz34]

Do you really need that much vacuum hose?