Q-Ball Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Well, the driver side control arm gave me hell. I had to cut the one bolt with a grinder. Anyways its off, the car is at a friends house im a shamble of pieces. The bushings are getting pressed in as soon as a I leave. I did grab a century front sway bar, after pulling the old one off, I noticed it looks maybe 1/16 or 1/8 smaller. Even where the bolt goes through, the outer diameter is a little bit smaller too. Anyways, I just want to know that its not going to brake on me? This is my DD, and I dont take corners hard in this thing. update, see pg 2. new post. read 2nd post too. ok, i got the ball joint off, but how do you get the new one on? I couldnt slide the 3rd bolt through. It just kept hitting the knuckle. Than I tried jacking up the suspension and that just made it worse. The top rubber part of the spring slipped out, so now I need to compress the spring to get it back in place. All this god damn work for a ball joint. My Grand Prix was never this bad. But it's a 1st gen. Any idea's? Thanks So after working about 2 hours on it, I finally got it all done. The bottom nut stripped itself, so I had to use my grinder on it. Got it off. Than I couldnt budge the locking nut for the tie rod. Put some pb blaster crap on, nothing. After getting some heat on it and using all my strength I got it to budge. After that it was off. Installed the new and went to go work on the ball joint. Step 1) Raise car and support. Step 2) Remove wheel. Step 3) Remove outer tie rod.... Yeah, it's dark, I was cold so I said screw it and packed up. I dont think I will be making this mistake every again. Basically what I learned was to read all the instructions first. But, as for parts I got new rotors for all 4, new outer tie rods for both sides and new ball joints for both sides. It just needed it for the pass side to pass safety, but I thought, what the hell, I'll do both. After taking it all off to, I found the front pads crumbing off. I guess it's good I got the car with a brand new set. Still waiting on my outer tie rod for the other side and rear pads to come in. So after this, my question is, is it really different to change the front's compared to the rears? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Ok, things are worse. I think I have to drop the assembly now to fix the upper mount. It's all down and somehow the spring jumped over it. I have it compressed, but I cant push the mount back in place. Well, I just rented 2 more tools. I got the sockets to take off the hub and the hub puller. My question now is, since the ball joint is off, is there anyway i can still take off the hub? I havent broken loose the hub nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Have someone hold the brakes, or a long stick/ bar to hold 'em, unless you have the rotor and caliper off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 Well, I already put everything together... I can only get 2 bolts on for the ball joint, so it will be good enough for now. I put the caliper back on, but I left off the rotor and pads since they are garbage. I just lowered the car back on the ground and broke it loose. It was a lot more work, but now its done. Tomorrow I will try and take off the assembly and replace the upper mounts. When thats done, back to the ball joint. I think I am going to have to take the lower control arm off. I dont see any other way possible to get all 3 bolts in. I'll try and take some pics tomorrow if no one understands. I'd like to have someone else who has changed ball joints on a 2nd gen chime in. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted November 4, 2008 Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 Did you disconnect the sway bar to let the control arm swing freely? Otherwise a Balljoint removal tool is your friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 Did you disconnect the sway bar to let the control arm swing freely? Otherwise a Balljoint removal tool is your friend. In my haynes it just said to loosing it, I did. And I already have the ball joint off with the pickle fork. But removing it is a very good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted November 5, 2008 Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 I didn't read your entire post, the last part I read was "only two bolts on the balljoint, good enough for now", I was like !~!!!!!~#@! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 I didn't read your entire post, the last part I read was "only two bolts on the balljoint, good enough for now", I was like !~!!!!!~#@! Oh, that was just to lower the suspension so I could take the hub nut off. Anyways, for an update I got the whole suspension off. Now, my only problem is to remove to the top mount. It has a nut that needs to be held in postion while using the torx to unscrew it. The problem is, parts source and canadian tire dont have a tool for that. Any idea's? Ok, this would be perfect... now to find it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted November 5, 2008 Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 Vicegrips and let the hood strut do the work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 Fail. I got a new wrench but it snapped the torx inside. So, its at a autoshop now. I tried drilling it out, but it was doing anything. I was quoted 42 bucks to get it off. So not bad. We'll see how the rest goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2008 Well, I took back some parts and just bought the Monroe Quick Strut. It will be much easier and cheaper too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 Got the drivers side finally done today after work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 wait, what car are you working on here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2008 wait, what car are you working on here? 99 Buick Regal GS. I just finished everything on the drivers side tonight including the brakes. God 2nd gen rotors are so BIG! I had to go but a C Clamp for the piston. I started the passenger side but hit a wall just like on the drivers side. The outer tierod nut started spinning so I'm going to have to cut it off and grind off the rivets on the ball joint. So I might get off work early and tackle it. I'd like to take pics of the progress too, but my friends camera is awol. I even built a nice shelter out of 2 tarps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98montels Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 Around me they make a w-body strut removal tool its 70 bucks to rent at a murrays or autozone and you get every cent back after you return it. It may be to late for this info but thought I would add for the hell of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 Around me they make a w-body strut removal tool its 70 bucks to rent at a murrays or autozone and you get every cent back after you return it. It may be to late for this info but thought I would add for the hell of it That's only first-gens. While you're at you should upgrade the brakes to Intrigue style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 Around me they make a w-body strut removal tool its 70 bucks to rent at a murrays or autozone and you get every cent back after you return it. It may be to late for this info but thought I would add for the hell of it That's only first-gens. While you're at you should upgrade the brakes to Intrigue style. I just went for stock replacements. But its all finally done! All new suspension on the front (got monroe sensatrack quick strut), new ball joints and outer tie rods, rotors and pads all around 4 wheels. Only snag I ran into was busted my sway bar bolt that connects the control arm. Got a new one and new bushings. I later found out the on my pass side the sway bar is snapped, well half of it, I just put it all back together with the new bolt and bushings and its working fine for now. I might as well get the gmpp handling upgrade while I'm at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick1234 Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 when do you know to put tie rod ends on and stabilizer links on. i don't feel any play, but they look worn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 when do you know to put tie rod ends on and stabilizer links on. i don't feel any play, but they look worn. The car came with a safety to do list. It was just the right side that needed to be done, but i did both for the tie rods. As for the stabilizer links, my bolt snapped as well half of the bar came broken when I got the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSedan Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 i just spent $1500 in the last couple weeks on my Regal GS. i still have to buy the rotors (Brembo=$$$) and 2 more tires. i'm replacing the struts, strut mounts, LCAs with new balljoints/bushings, outer tierods, all 4 rotors & pads, SS braided brake hoses, all 4 tires, and all motor and trans mounts. i bought some MEVOTECH LCAs from rockauto.com, but i am not very happy with them so i'm sending them back for a refund. i went ahead and bought another set of LCAs on GM Parts Direct yesterday. can't wait to drive it again then it's getting tint and a new HU finally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 i just spent $1500 in the last couple weeks on my Regal GS. i still have to buy the rotors (Brembo=$$$) and 2 more tires. i'm replacing the struts, strut mounts, LCAs with new balljoints/bushings, outer tierods, all 4 rotors & pads, SS braided brake hoses, all 4 tires, and all motor and trans mounts. i bought some MEVOTECH LCAs from rockauto.com, but i am not very happy with them so i'm sending them back for a refund. i went ahead and bought another set of LCAs on GM Parts Direct yesterday. can't wait to drive it again then it's getting tint and a new HU finally. Wow, sounds like a lot of work. But it will be worth it in the end. I really dont plan to do anything crazy with this regal. Maybe in the future I'd buy another one and do some mods to it, but for now, I want this to be my new DD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSedan Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 same here, i don't think i'm really going to mod this car at all (ie. go-fast mods). all of this stuff i'm doing right now are things that it has needed since i bought it 2+ years ago! and i've put about 27k since then (now at 127k). it's going to be nice to drive when i'm done for sure. for a short time i had some KYB AGX struts/SSC lowering springs but the car was sooo low it was a total PITA to drive so i got rid of that stuff. how does your car ride (ride height, etc) with the Monroe Quick-Struts? i was thinking about getting them to save myself some work, but i like the ride height i have now with the GTP springs i have now. definitely lower than stock but not slammed like w/ lowering springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2008 same here, i don't think i'm really going to mod this car at all (ie. go-fast mods). all of this stuff i'm doing right now are things that it has needed since i bought it 2+ years ago! and i've put about 27k since then (now at 127k). it's going to be nice to drive when i'm done for sure. for a short time i had some KYB AGX struts/SSC lowering springs but the car was sooo low it was a total PITA to drive so i got rid of that stuff. how does your car ride (ride height, etc) with the Monroe Quick-Struts? i was thinking about getting them to save myself some work, but i like the ride height i have now with the GTP springs i have now. definitely lower than stock but not slammed like w/ lowering springs. I can get you pics once my brothers gf comes back home. She is out of town visiting her parents. I'll see if I can measure them for you in the mean time. But they do ride smooth. I LOVE IT! gah, also forgot to note I need a new front sway bar. When I took mine off it it fell apart. I'm also getting a shop to press in my control arm bushings too. I helped a friend clean out his garage, so the car will be there for about a week or so while I do the extra work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted January 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 bump, see first post with all new info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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