Jonpro03 Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Ok, a bunch of dumb questions, but its been 3 years since I've rebuilt a 3100 and Ive gotten rusty. BTW its a 96 Prix. First the dumbest, Whats the cylinder numbers going front left to drivers side and rear left to drivers? Also I cracked the uim. (Stupid Aluminum) Front left. Do I need to replace it before going any further? I've got a OBD1 UIM laying around but the EGR doesn't match. IIRC, there's one wire that has no home. It's either the one on the passenger side thats a red, 2wire connection with I think brown and white wires or the one on the right thats a red 2wire connection that comes out by the TB/EGR wiring. One of the two goes to the evap purge sol but I cant remember which one. they both fit Lastly, I may or may not have broken a fuel line. I twisted it up pretty good and it feels like theres a hole were it was pinched. How should I replace it? I think thats it for now. Got to get this car done by Saturday and Ive been putting it off forever! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 The cylinder numbers are the following: (rear) 1,3,5 2,4,6 (front of car) How bad is the crack? If there's any crack in the chamber area then you may as well toss it. Those '96+ L82 plenums can be found very cheap. Those mystery plugs are red, correct? One of those wires is for the EVAP solenoid. The other is for the optional variable power steering. The best I could say is the plug that's dusty/dirty is the one you don't want to plug into the evap solenoid If not, by tonight I'll look up the wire colors for you to determine which is which. What part of the fuel line was pinched? The black plastic hard line? I accidentally kinked mine once but it has held up well. The only way to replace it is either the entire line (including the metal part going all the way back to the fuel filter) or do something custom with flare fittings and a custom cut line and replace the oem plastic part of the line with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonpro03 Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Thanks for answering my ?'s. The crack in the UIM isn't in the chamber, I was just concerned that it wouldn't seal well. And yeah, I pinched the black plastic. Ill be hooking up the battery today so I can fire up the fuel pump and check for leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95 vert Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 You can hit the local parts store for the fuel line. They have plastic repair kits with quick connect on one end and the other, you put it in hot water and "slide" it over your original metal line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonpro03 Posted November 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 HELP!!! This is what Ive got! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wm7ybkuvNIE Im supposed to drive this car to chicago tomorrow! What do you think it is? Will it survive a 7 hour drive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 simple question, but are you sure none of the pushrods are in the wrong spot? If an intake and exhaust pushrod are crossed, you'll bend the intake valve. To be honest, given the speed of the knocking, that almost sounds like a bottom end noise. I could be wrong. What RPM was the engine idling at in that video? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonpro03 Posted November 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 900 and it was a rough idle. The pushrods are all right. I've made the mistake of putting them in wrong and the motor wouldn't turn over by hand to attach the torque converter. Yeah that sucked. I thought it was topend too, but now im thinking spun bearing. How far will I get on a spun bearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 900 and it was a rough idle. The pushrods are all right. I've made the mistake of putting them in wrong and the motor wouldn't turn over by hand to attach the torque converter. Yeah that sucked. I thought it was topend too, but now im thinking spun bearing. How far will I get on a spun bearing? Not very far.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPX Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 900 and it was a rough idle. The pushrods are all right. I've made the mistake of putting them in wrong and the motor wouldn't turn over by hand to attach the torque converter. Yeah that sucked. I thought it was topend too, but now im thinking spun bearing. How far will I get on a spun bearing? Not very far.. My thought exactly. Mine lasted about an hour. Then there was that sickening sound and the coolant spewing and the long ride home in the tow truck. And then the $2100 bill, but now I have an LA1 with 31,000 miles on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Okay, with a 900 RPM idle, that's 15 rev's/second. I seem to hear about 7 "knocks" per second (half speed) so it's still possible it's just a valvetrain knock. Did the pushrod switch happen during this rebuild? Even though you did correct it, it's possible the valve got slightly bent or jammed when turning the motor by hand. The valves are splayed, so if they do contact the piston, it does so on an angle. If you could, try and do a compression check on all cylinders. You might be lucky and still have a good bottom end. You'd just need to get the valve replaced and seated if there's a valve problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonpro03 Posted November 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Okay, with a 900 RPM idle, that's 15 rev's/second. I seem to hear about 7 "knocks" per second (half speed) so it's still possible it's just a valvetrain knock. Did the pushrod switch happen during this rebuild? Even though you did correct it, it's possible the valve got slightly bent or jammed when turning the motor by hand. The valves are splayed, so if they do contact the piston, it does so on an angle. If you could, try and do a compression check on all cylinders. You might be lucky and still have a good bottom end. You'd just need to get the valve replaced and seated if there's a valve problem. Will do. If theres a compresion leak it will be a valvetrain problem right? I started the drive to chicago and got about 30 miles and turned around. I had a really bad power loss. I was afraid I wasn't going to make it home. Ive got a 3100 block sitting in the garage. If it is bottom end Ill start rebuilding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Okay, with a 900 RPM idle, that's 15 rev's/second. I seem to hear about 7 "knocks" per second (half speed) so it's still possible it's just a valvetrain knock. Did the pushrod switch happen during this rebuild? Even though you did correct it, it's possible the valve got slightly bent or jammed when turning the motor by hand. The valves are splayed, so if they do contact the piston, it does so on an angle. If you could, try and do a compression check on all cylinders. You might be lucky and still have a good bottom end. You'd just need to get the valve replaced and seated if there's a valve problem. Will do. If theres a compresion leak it will be a valvetrain problem right? Generally yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 900 and it was a rough idle. The pushrods are all right. I've made the mistake of putting them in wrong and the motor wouldn't turn over by hand to attach the torque converter. Yeah that sucked. I thought it was topend too, but now im thinking spun bearing. How far will I get on a spun bearing? Not very far.. Yeah, I made it about 30 miles driving with my spun bearing before it died completely. Sucks that you couldn't make it to the meet yesterday!!! But better safe than sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.