EviLette Posted October 29, 2008 Report Share Posted October 29, 2008 So she's been running a little iffy the last few days, not really sure what's going on. Just a hiccup here or there. Finally a code popped on the way home from work. The code is 13, but I don't have a service manual anymore (and don't have the money to buy one at the moment.) Anyone know what my car is trying to tell me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted October 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2008 Shit! Nevermind, I answered my own question. Disregard/delete this post. 13: Oxygen sensor voltage stays between 0.35 and 0.55 volts for 60 seconds when the TPS signal was above 4%. The engine had been running for at least 2 minutes. What the hell do I do from here? check the wiring to the oxygen sensor, or if the voltage is low is that an alternator issue? O.O Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted October 29, 2008 Report Share Posted October 29, 2008 I'd say that you should check the wire to the O2 sensor first, and make sure it didn't get damaged somewhere... If the wire is ok, then the O2 sensor probably crapped out on ya.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 I don't know where either sensor is located to check the wiring. Damnit jerk had to walk off with my service manual >.< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 The O2 sensor is located on the rear exhaust manifold, right before it connects to to the downpipe, right by the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 It's ugly. And from what I hear, If you break the wire you are fubarred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted November 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 It's ugly. And from what I hear, If you break the wire you are fubarred. Oh gawd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted November 1, 2008 Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 Its not that bad.. the wire on my TGP was melted and I ordered a specific replacement, it included a factory AC Delco wire and sensor connector. Bought it off Rockauto for a couple bucks, soldered it in, good as new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 If I can do this on a 3.4L anyone can do it. Just be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPX Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 It's ugly. And from what I hear, If you break the wire you are fubarred. Oh gawd. As I understand the worst part is getting the sensor off of the exhaust pipe. They have a tendency to "weld" into the threads and can snap them off. Then a nut needs to be welded onto the pipe. I recommend PB Blaster, the correct wrench, and patience. I let my mechanic pull mine off after struggling with it for a while and pulling my shoulder muscles (didn't realize that till the next day ). He had success (no repair necessary) and only charged $16 as the car was in getting new tires (already had my new sensor--about $60 for Bosch IIRC). Your new sensor should have the proper connector, but even so, splicing wires is not that tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted November 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 It's ugly. And from what I hear, If you break the wire you are fubarred. Oh gawd. As I understand the worst part is getting the sensor off of the exhaust pipe. They have a tendency to "weld" into the threads and can snap them off. Then a nut needs to be welded onto the pipe. I recommend PB Blaster, the correct wrench, and patience. I let my mechanic pull mine off after struggling with it for a while and pulling my shoulder muscles (didn't realize that till the next day ). He had success (no repair necessary) and only charged $16 as the car was in getting new tires (already had my new sensor--about $60 for Bosch IIRC). Your new sensor should have the proper connector, but even so, splicing wires is not that tough. With the risk involved in this particular repair, I'm going to have to take it to a shop. The only problem is that I don't know where to take it. The service engine light didn't pop on until I had the car at the shop next door checking out why my engine is still NOT solid in the mounts. All my mounts are bad, or so I was told. I wouldn't be surprised, but is he lying to me, or did the other shop f*ck up the installation? Worse yet, both? Also, one of my calipers suddenly stopped clamping down, and the new pad (this happened when new pads and rotors went in) is just kinda clinking around in the caliper. So basically, I don't know. I'm nervous as hell about what's wrong with my car, all that's wrong, but I'm afraid to take it to any shops now, because I've been having such bad luck. I've gone through three sets of motor mounts, and this will be the second set since I had a full run of new subrame bushings installed. I'm getting pretty damned irate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 If you ever feel like taking a road trip, you can bring it to my school... I will check out all the brakes and let you see them personally and check out the motor mounts... We can also do the 02 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPX Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 With the risk involved in this particular repair, I'm going to have to take it to a shop. The only problem is that I don't know where to take it. The service engine light didn't pop on until I had the car at the shop next door checking out why my engine is still NOT solid in the mounts. All my mounts are bad, or so I was told. I wouldn't be surprised, but is he lying to me, or did the other shop f*ck up the installation? Worse yet, both? Also, one of my calipers suddenly stopped clamping down, and the new pad (this happened when new pads and rotors went in) is just kinda clinking around in the caliper. So basically, I don't know. I'm nervous as hell about what's wrong with my car, all that's wrong, but I'm afraid to take it to any shops now, because I've been having such bad luck. I've gone through three sets of motor mounts, and this will be the second set since I had a full run of new subrame bushings installed. I'm getting pretty damned irate. I don't understand how your car can eat so many motor mounts. I think someone is lying to you or cheating you somehow. I'm thinking you should get 100K out of a set of motor mounts. Can someone else chime in here? I replaced ONE at 121,000. And your brakes...who put in new pads? Pads come with spring clips that when installed correctly will not allow the pads to "clink" around. And how did a caliper stop working AFTER brake work? Re-installed incorrectly? Brakes aren't really that complicated. It sounds like you are having a lot of trouble finding an honest/competent shop. If the work is beyond you, or a friend, or relative, then you might want to take Big Al up on his offer. Evi, things aren't that bad. I think someone owes you some new motor mounts. You should go back to whomever installed the last set and ask why they have failed already. And if your brakes at least worked before the rotors and pads, then they should still work now if the calipers were re-installed correctly. Was this done "professionally?" If so, the car should go back there too. You don't need a new car, just a good mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted November 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 I'll have to figure something out. I just figured since it had been a few months since the subframe was done, and shops don't warranty labor... I'm up a creek anyways. Not warrantying labor... its a good idea, but also a great way to screw people, like I've been getting screwed. I'm so sick of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 The O2 is easy to get to. I just crawled up on top of the motor, grabbed a medium vise grip, and popped it right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 o, it's right on top of the Down Pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPX Posted November 4, 2008 Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 I'll have to figure something out. I just figured since it had been a few months since the subframe was done, and shops don't warranty labor... I'm up a creek anyways. Not warrantying labor... its a good idea, but also a great way to screw people, like I've been getting screwed. I'm so sick of this. Are you sure they won't stand behind their work? Every shop I deal with does. Oh yeah, there are two O2 sensors. One before the cat and one after. Do you know which is the problem? I have a cheap code reader I got off eBay and my NAPA store figured out which one it was (bank 2--the rear most one). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted November 4, 2008 Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 only OBD II has 2 O2's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted November 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 o, it's right on top of the Down Pipe I know where it's at. I'm just afraid to risk tryijng to break that fucker loose. I can deal with that. Hell, I can deal with the caliper. What I can't deal with is the engine mount issues, and that seems to be the biggest problem right now. Also the one I've spent too fucking much money trying to fix, only its not fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Ficho Posted November 4, 2008 Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 My car threw Code 13 and showed all the symptoms you're talking about and changing the IAC fixed it. I knew that because I tried cleaning the IAC and effed it up. Either way, the IAC caused that code to show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted November 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 My car threw Code 13 and showed all the symptoms you're talking about and changing the IAC fixed it. I knew that because I tried cleaning the IAC and effed it up. Either way, the IAC caused that code to show. Idle Air Control? That's a suggestion from the ford driver sitting behind me. Refresh my memory, what is the IAC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted November 5, 2008 Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 It's In You Throttle Body. IIRC, On The Manifold Side, Behind The Flap And TPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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