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Factory Muffler Modification


Olds W31

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Has anyone ever did any "low dollar" modifications to the existing mufflers? I have a 94 Olds Cutlass, 3100 auto, that I installed a factory "dual" exhaust set up from a 3400 Z34 when I first bought it.

 

I have the dual tips on each muffler, only one of which is an actual exit. I was thinking of drilling thru the muffler wall to make both tips functional. I am aware that this would bypass some (all?) of the baffling, but with the converter still in place, the resonator still on, and these GIGANTIC case mufflers to lower the tone, I am just looking for a little more sound without it being obnoxious.

 

I imagined just drilling a series of 3/8" holes in the muffler wall, starting with 1 and adding if I wanted more sound or change in resonance.

 

Thoughts?

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he's right.

 

dont do it.

 

So I got one "I heard" and 1 "don't do it"....anybody actually tried it? I am not trying to be a hard/smart a$$, I just prefer empirical testing rather than "my buddies 2nd cousins' brothers' friend, he had a buddy who....."

 

I don't mind testing this, as I have done it on my Protege (factory muffler + welder + 3in pipe + 1/2" drill = lower tone with little "rice" for $8, rather than $50-100 Magnaflow). Worst case is I do it, hate it, and have to plug it...won't be the first time to try and fail....but at least I would have tried..... :razz:

 

We don't have rust in Texas....jk.

You can let it rust through. Mine got ever louder till the day it fell off

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You can let it rust through. Mine got ever louder till the day it fell off

 

True that, when I had my $40 dynomax setup on my Lumina. It sounded tons better when it had a 4" diameter rust hole in it :lol:

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My 6000 sounded kick ass when the muffler was rusting through!

 

My Ciera was 'just' reaching perfection when I got rid of it, but it had a rock or something in it that would rattle.

 

My Cutty hasn't ever ran correctly for me to know... :willynilly: :lol:

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Well, I got bored and tried it...one half inch hole allowing each non-functioning tail pipe to work.

 

At idle, just a little noticeable. At part/full throttle, the holes are too small and there is no noticeable change. At cruise, you can hear the pipes just a little. Lower, deeper, little if any resonance in my 4 door. All I can say is I will continue the experiment with the biggest hole saw I can send up the pipe and drive with a drill.... :burnout:

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I'm not trying to sound like a douchebag, (too late.... :rolleyes:) but why don't you stop being cheap and just get a different set of mufflers?

 

Drilling holes? Seriously...

 

Every look inside a muffler? Most are full of ....you guessed it....HOLES!

 

I guess when the factory perforates a piece of pipe or stamps out a "flow director" out of sheet metal that is okay...especially when they charge a HUGE markup if you every ordered a replacement...but when someone, who titles the thread "Factory Muffler Modification" and, in his very first post inquires:

Has anyone ever done any "low dollar" modifications to the existing mufflers? (with grammatical correction (done for did)

 

So, lets review. In some peoples minds we should only consider modding our vehicles if we spend money and hope that the expenditure will work (whose mufflers do I use, what case length, what method of sound entrapment/tone control (baffles, packing, direction, etc)).

 

That, to me, is not hotrodding. I have a minimal cost in this vehicle. I don't mind being labeled as "frugal"....I established in the first post that my car was originally single exhaust and I converted it to dual with factory parts....I guess I should not have done that, but instead "invested" (on a car that has so radically depreciated and will NEVER regain value, its not an "investment", but a "sunk cost") in a pair of really nice mufflers with mandrel bends, larger diameter tubing, etc.

 

Not to my way of thinking...on the 3100 cars, the bottle neck MIGHT be in the exhaust manifolds, if there existed one at all, but the tubing diameter and use of 2 mufflers eliminates most flow restrictions. It is obvious (to me, at least) that GM was interested in SOUND CONTROL on these cars. Remember, the goal is to do it as cheaply as possible. This is the mantra that drives the auto industry. GM would NEVER use mufflers with as big a case as these unless they HAD to.

 

Now, from the viewpoint of the enthusiast, who is not offended by a little "tone", if we can take what GM engineered, and for $7.00 worth of step drill bit, make it sound like $100-200 worth of Magnaflows....I would think some of the people in this forum would appreciate the "research". If you have money you want to spend on your W, great. I have kids and other priorities, and I have built enough cars and other projects to know that every dime you ever spend on a car is wasted, unless its for maintainence, and even that can be questionable.

 

Rant finished....not trying to "flame" anybody, but the point of a forum is to exchange information and ideas. If I had signed onto Flowmaster.com or Dynomax, etc, and posted this same thread, I would understand. I am just trying to bring 20+ years of automotive engineering, trial and error, and expertise to bear on, to some, what could be a cheap and simple "improvement" so that they could save or spend their hard-earned money on something more useful....

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  • 2 months later...

not to sound stupid but what are fake tips considered? I switched my cutlass to dual exhaust and i just put the cheapie mufflers on there and they are both functional and they sound good :mrgreen:

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ok that soundsretardd but iget it. So basically it is just a standard muffler with a faketailpipe welded onto the outside of the center chamber.

all i have to say is lol to that

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