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Oil Filter Poll


Dannymik

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I use a Fram, (yes, I said Fram) 3980 with Castrol GTX 10W30. Runs me like $13 an oil change, and the oil looks BRAND NEW each time I change it, even after 3K miles.

 

Edit: I paid $3500 in Feb of 2000 for my car. It had 62K on the clock at the time and was/is in PRISTINE condition.

 

Robby

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K&N Oil Filters @ about $10.00 apiece. $10 for Maxlife 10w30. And my car origionally cost me $4800 :) and then the tranny died and cost me $1800 to rebuild :( and my car leaks a quart of oil every 3000 miles :roll:

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hey thats funny my car now has a nice oil leak too. drips all down the side of the tranny trickeling close to or over the starter and then to the ground. wonderful :roll:

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I use a Fram Xtra-Guard filter on my Daily driver, with Quaker state high mileage oil. I use K&N Filters on both my TGP and my 99 GT, with Amsoil Synthetic. That's about $5 a quart. Good thing I don't change it often :lol:

 

Ah..my bad, I forgot to add the cost of my cars.

 

I paid $0 for my Truck....122k 4 years ago.....126k now

I paid $700 for my 90 TGP.....95k 6 months ago....96k now

I paid $3,000 for my 90 LE.....78k 2 years ago.....122k now

I paid $11,500 for my 99 GT.....39k 11 months ago.....45k now

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Wal-mart SuperTech oil filter and SuperTech 10W30!

 

I spent $0 to buy my 89 Cutlass.

I spent $2000 to buy my 90 TGP.

I spent $3000 to buy my 94 Cutlass convertible.

 

You don't wanna know how much I paid for my truck. :(

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Wal-mart SuperTech oil filter and SuperTech 10W30!

 

I spent $0 to buy my 89 Cutlass.

I spent $2000 to buy my 90 TGP.

I spent $3000 to buy my 94 Cutlass convertible.

 

You don't wanna know how much I paid for my truck. :(

 

im guessing 35,000

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...and the oil looks BRAND NEW each time I change it...

 

The following is copied from the Quaker State website...

 

Myth #2

 

If the oil turns dark or black quickly, it's no good.

You can tell the condition of oil by the look, smell or color of it.

Dirty (black) motor oil means the oil is breaking down.

 

Fact

A common misconception is that high quality motor oil should come out of an engine looking clean at the time of an oil change. Nothing could be further from the truth. If the oil is doing its job of cleaning the engine, then it should be dirty when it is drained. Quaker State® motor oil will start looking dirty a short time after it is put to use. In the case of diesel engines, the oil will look dirty within a few hours of operation. These are signs that the motor oil is doing its job of keeping soot, dirt, and other combustion contaminants in suspension to be carried to the filter or removed from the crankcase when the oil is changed. Quaker State® motor oils have been formulated to hold these contaminants in suspension until they can be removed with an oil and filter change.

 

Just lettin' ya know...

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Fram and Valvoline.

 

I paid $6000 for the GTP (83K miles) $900 on the 5 speed (Includes lots of new stuff). $2000 on my Cutlass (166K miles) and have had less problems with it than the GTP

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Fram X2 filters, Quaker State 5W30 full synthetic.

 

4500 for my baby. 1100 to fix the air condition at time of purchase. had 188k kms at time of purchase, now at 241, after 2 years of driving 6 months of the year. (I drive a lot for work)

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and then the tranny died and cost me $1800 to rebuild :( and my car leaks a quart of oil every 3000 miles :roll:

 

well, i dont have the leakage problem, but i did have a tranny go out and $1800 it was as well to have rebuilt - which i think is bullshit, but thats just me - but i generally use fram filters cuz the little machine that tells me the one i need tells me about air filters and everything else, so its all right there... lol, but the filters are generally about $5.00 and about $30 for Mobil1 5W30.

 

and my car was $2500 2 years ago, and since, not counting the tranny, i have about $4000 into total, including the car itself. - and that includes the hack job on the wires and all the extra holes and wiring left in the car from when it was a cop car. On the plus side, i pulled the cover off the spare and there was 2 serpentine belts and 2 oil filters and a bunch of other misc shit for the car.

 

my car has a history of breaking belts though so those being in there saved me a little bit on price of new belts.

 

- Justin

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1990 Turbo Grand Prix (Turbo 3.1)- $1,500 in December of 2002 w/105,000 miles on it, and in pretty good condition. It now has 111,000 miles on it and still has the same oil & filter. The oil was changed the day before we bought the car (the guy said so, and it was VERY clean), and is now due for a change, but I can't tell you what oil or filter we used because like I said we didn't do it yet.

 

1993 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight (3800)- $2,200 in April of 2002 w/103,000 miles on it, and in PERFECT condition. Bought it from an old man who had just bought a new Cadillac. We use AC-Delco PF-47 Filter w/normal Valvoline 10W-30 Oil.

Currently has 115,000 miles.

 

1995 Chevrolet Beretta Z26 (3100)- $4,000 in April of 2002 w/75,000 miles on it. We use AC-Delco PF-47 Filter w/normal Valvoline 10w-30 oil.

Currently has 88,000 miles.

 

2000 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi (SC 3800)- $29,XXX (GM discount) in August of 2000 (brand new) w/~50 miles on it. We use AC-Delco PF-47 Filter w/Valvoline Dura-Blend 10W-30 oil.

Currently has 81,500 miles.

 

2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (SC 3800)- $24,200 (GM discount & $2000 cash back) in January of 2002 (brand new) w/~120 miles on it. We use AC-Delco PF-47 Filter w/Valvoline Dura-Blend 10W-30 oil. (We have in the past used the PF-52 filter, but it is difficult to fit in the limited space, so we don't normally use it)

Currently has 20,200 miles.

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Shawn, not to stray off topic but why don't you tell us a bit more about your truck. GM's C/K-Series trucks kick ass. The only other truck I'd buy would be a Ford F-150 with a Triton V-8. But I prefer the GMCs with the Vortec 6000.

 

Wal-mart SuperTech oil filter and SuperTech 10W30!

 

I spent $0 to buy my 89 Cutlass.

I spent $2000 to buy my 90 TGP.

I spent $3000 to buy my 94 Cutlass convertible.

 

You don't wanna know how much I paid for my truck. :(

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Well, I forgot to add my info so here it is:

 

'91 Regal GS Sedan

3800 TPI V-6 Engine, THM 4T60 Transmission, both original

FE3 Suspension, 16 inch wheels/tires, floor mounted shifter, full gauges

All options except ABS, CD, Leather and Sunroof

Currently 182,000km

Purchased December '99 at $7,700CDN with 135,000km

 

Problem Areas:

Turn Signal Switch $300 (done at GM dealer)

Floor-mounted shift plate $100 (purchased new part from auto recycler)

Redtek A/C Refrigerant* $0 (done at a previous employer's shop)

* A/C still has a minor leak so I'll have to refill it again soon.

 

To Do List:

New Tires

New Front Struts/Rear Shocks

Bodywork (rust on both front fenders around wheel arches)

New Paint

New Muffler

New Rear Bumper Frame (actual bumper is rusted)

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im about to start doing my own..and ill be using the products that my dad used, and recomends

 

NAPA Gold filters (made by Wix)

NAPA Premium Oil (Made by valvoline)

 

And...i paid $4200 in april 2002 for my Cutlass. It was for sale, from my Uncle's company he owns for $5500. It had 109,000 miles (all highway, went all OVER VA). Now has 121,8xx miles

 

jon

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Shawn, not to stray off topic but why don't you tell us a bit more about your truck. GM's C/K-Series trucks kick ass. The only other truck I'd buy would be a Ford F-150 with a Triton V-8. But I prefer the GMCs with the Vortec 6000.

 

It's really nothing special, just a 99 Chevy Silverado, 4x4 extended cab.

I paid $11k for it April '02. It's got the puny 4.8L V8, but at least it's a V8! It's a base model (never again will I buy a base model). It had manual windows, manual locks. I dismantled and removed the dash and managed to yank the dash harness complete without cutting, and I bought a new full power dash harness from a fully loaded Z71 and put it into my truck. I did the same with the door harnesses. Not 1 single wire cut, it's as factory as it can be. Now my truck has:

- Power Windows

- Power Locks

- Factory Keyless Entry

- Factory foglights

- Factory Power/Heated Mirrors

- Factory Autodimming rearview mirror with compass & temp

- Factory Deluxe door trim panels from an LS

- Heated Rear Window

- Euro clear corners

- Euro clear headlights

- Pioneer DEH-P7400MP plays MP3 CD's

 

I'm planning to dechrome the whole thing (except the wheels). I already have new color-keyed mirrors with the turn signals, autodimming, and power folding to put in it, and painted door handles. I'd like to put a 6.0L and leather seats in it too.

 

My truck has 115k miles on it now, but I haven't even had the slightest little problem or glitch with it, GM definitely builds a good truck.

 

My favorite truck in terms of LOOKS is actually the 2001 Ford F-150 Supercab Harley Davidson Edition. I love the aerodynamic look of the 97-03 F-150's, but I had to have extended cab (Ford calls 'em Supercab), and they did just HORRIBLE in the offset crash test while Silverado did okay. I found a crashed F-150 at the JY that looked EXACTLY like the crash test photos (really bad) so I know they all collapse in offset collisions. They also have quality problems like the door sheetmetal cracks. I figured it was a lot smarter to get the Chevy!

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i am usin right now a napa silver filter about 5 bucks and quaker state high milege oil about 12 bucks for a 10 quart. and i have no oil leaks

 

 

and i bought my car in feb. 01 with 146xxx miles on it and it now has 151xxx miles

 

problems

 

of course the oil pump gasket

starter went out

altenator

whole new ignition system

 

and i just got the new paint job so i have about 5 grand into my car and if the engine goes i am gettin a 3100 to put in it since my moms 98 lumina has one and they are nice good runnin engines

 

 

Jeremy

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I don't really like sport trucks, but that's just me. To me any truck that isn't an extended cab is ugly, and I absolutely hate flare-side trucks. Trucks are supposed to be 8-cylinder monsters with four wheel drive. Hey, it's good you got all three. Extended cab, V-8 and 4x4, you simply can't go wrong. The F-150 is a great looking truck when you get up to the higher models, the base models look like ass.

 

It's cool how you added power everything to your ride, although it must have been quite a bit of work. Also, it's good you got a '99. The new Chevy Silverados with the triangular front end looks like shit. Really, it does. Damn thing looks like those new Sunfires with a triangular "Saturn" like front end. Sheeeeeeit! What the hell were GM's designers thinking?

 

It's really nothing special, just a 99 Chevy Silverado, 4x4 extended cab.

I paid $11k for it April '02. It's got the puny 4.8L V8, but at least it's a V8! It's a base model (never again will I buy a base model). It had manual windows, manual locks. I dismantled and removed the dash and managed to yank the dash harness complete without cutting, and I bought a new full power dash harness from a fully loaded Z71 and put it into my truck. I did the same with the door harnesses. Not 1 single wire cut, it's as factory as it can be. Now my truck has:

- Power Windows

- Power Locks

- Factory Keyless Entry

- Factory foglights

- Factory Power/Heated Mirrors

- Factory Autodimming rearview mirror with compass & temp

- Factory Deluxe door trim panels from an LS

- Heated Rear Window

- Euro clear corners

- Euro clear headlights

- Pioneer DEH-P7400MP plays MP3 CD's

 

I'm planning to dechrome the whole thing (except the wheels). I already have new color-keyed mirrors with the turn signals, autodimming, and power folding to put in it, and painted door handles. I'd like to put a 6.0L and leather seats in it too.

 

My truck has 115k miles on it now, but I haven't even had the slightest little problem or glitch with it, GM definitely builds a good truck.

 

My favorite truck in terms of LOOKS is actually the 2001 Ford F-150 Supercab Harley Davidson Edition. I love the aerodynamic look of the 97-03 F-150's, but I had to have extended cab (Ford calls 'em Supercab), and they did just HORRIBLE in the offset crash test while Silverado did okay. I found a crashed F-150 at the JY that looked EXACTLY like the crash test photos (really bad) so I know they all collapse in offset collisions. They also have quality problems like the door sheetmetal cracks. I figured it was a lot smarter to get the Chevy!

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