Intersting Info I found skimming the net

[mra32]

On GMs "W" body cars (Buick Regal, Chevy Lumina, Olds Cutlass Supreme and Pontiac Grand Prix), the 1988-89 models had a factory cam for rear toe adjustment. In 1990, GM did away with the cam but left the slotted hole. Rear toe is still adjustable, but it is much easier if you install an aftermarket cam kit.

 

Front camber adjustments can also be made on these cars by repositioning the upper strut mount after elongating the three bolt holes. One aftermarket supplier makes a template that can be used as a guide to cut the holes into slots.

 

from:

 

http://www.aa1car.com/library/tr496.htm

 

I did some quick calcs and figured that the slots would have to be pretty big to make any difference in camber, like somewhere near 7/16 to 1/2 inboard to make 1 degree of difference in camber...if youre looking for changing your camber for performance reasons

[Crazy K]

TOE =/= CAMBER

 

 

Camber is adjusted at the two through bolts on the strut.

[mra32]

hah i must have skimmed over that part. It doesnt seem right that you could be able to adjust rear toe through those bolts, but I havent had the rear fully apart and in my hands yet. You also only need to make tiny adjustments in toe to make a difference though. You could probably do it with adjustable lateral links though. I dont know why you'd really want to mess with rear toe on a FWD car though, especially with such a terrible weight distribution

 

Oh and I was referring to the front suspension when I made the slot elongation comment, just to clear it up.

[Crazy K]

oh. oops, I misread that.

 

the reason why one might want some toe in the rear would be to make the car a little more aggresive.

 

See awebs latest post in memebers ride.

[jman093]

Alignment goes out after time and you might have to adjust the rear toe just to get the wheels back to straight.

 

Also, you would be surprised how much adjustment you can get in front camber using the bolts even if you don't elongate the holes, especially if you swap both of the strut bolts with the cam bolts. I align cars all the time at work and only once have I ever elongated strut bolts holes. In fact about two weeks ago at work I had to align a wrecked Buick LeSabre (H platform I think?) for out body shop that they had just repaired. Camber on the side that was hit was out two degrees and I got it in spec without elongating the holes and I know there was still room left to go further.

 

 

[AL]

If your talking about elongating the strut tower holes, thats adjusting caster, not camber...

[mra32]

If your talking about elongating the strut tower holes, thats adjusting caster, not camber...

 

depends on which direction you go...

[AL]

true, didnt think about it that way.