Hows this for for a set up idea

[fatboy]

I am friends with all the shop owners in town. well, just the custom car audio shops.

 

they are all into my car and system and like to see the stuff they sold to me installed in a unique way. and will sell me at their cost basically so I send others to shop there in return. then the salesmen take it from there.

 

I do all my own work, but still I will bs with them an pick their brains. I won't stand around and annoy them or get in their way, but we all meet up and go out drinking at the bars after the spl comps. lately its been a pretty big deal in the summertime, we got local rap artists doing shows too. I love the town I live in.

 

you must be a bad ass installer , and must have a nice install , i would like to see your car "pics.".and how high you hit in spl.

[J]

well like i said before i would rather have a shop do it right the first time and not worry about problems later on down the road!!!! and like also i said before the guy i talked to who works there said he will get me some deals on what i want!!!!!

 

all this together will run me around 430bucks brand new

 

ok...online stores, not even eBay, that deck is $75, Punch P1462C are $45, Punch P1692C are $45 for a total of $165, plus shipping. You would have those to your door for under $200

 

Compare that $200 to the $430 they want....do you still think the guy you know that works there is getting you a good deal?

 

The install is a completely cake job, all three items can be done in well less then an hour and require only the knowledge of matching colors....I would honestly trust my three old to match up the colors of the wiring....hardly worth the extra $230-250 difference, IMHO of course. If I were going to spend $430 on a HU and speakers I would end up with a much better deck, and definitely nicer speakers then some entry level 2ways....

werd

[xtremerevolution]

Might I add you're in for a huge disappointment if you plan to power those speakers with that head unit. Head units are not designed to power aftermarket speakers, and they fail pretty miserably at it the moment you even remotely raise the volume. The distortion rises very fast the moment you increase your bass level, and even with a remotely higher volume.

 

Buy it online, and for the price you're paying to get it done at the shop, you can buy an amp and wiring kit, and you'd still come out cheaper.

 

Your head unit for $80:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18558

 

Your front speakers for $50:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17104

 

Your rear speakers for $54:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17107

 

That comes out to $182 shipped. Seriously...

 

 

Hifonics amp for $140:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16333

 

Amp install kit: $20

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19124

 

I mean these are rough estimates, and you could definitely use a better head unit if you wanted the RCA outputs for the amp (since the one you chose only has one), but the whole point here is, for the price you're about to pay, you could get a much better system if you did it yourself.

[pontiacmaniac94]

if you are really all that worried about having problems with the stupid thing, why dont you just take your time, and do it right the first time. believe me, i like it better when i KNOW it was put in right, because I did it. i mean, i understand the whole lazy thing, but still, if you want it done right, do it yourself.

[Addicted2bass]

Might I add you're in for a huge disappointment if you plan to power those speakers with that head unit. Head units are not designed to power aftermarket speakers, and they fail pretty miserably at it the moment you even remotely raise the volume. The distortion rises very fast the moment you increase your bass level, and even with a remotely higher volume.

 

Buy it online, and for the price you're paying to get it done at the shop, you can buy an amp and wiring kit, and you'd still come out cheaper.

 

Your head unit for $80:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18558

 

Your front speakers for $50:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17104

 

Your rear speakers for $54:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17107

 

That comes out to $182 shipped. Seriously...

 

 

Hifonics amp for $140:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16333

 

Amp install kit: $20

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19124

 

I mean these are rough estimates, and you could definitely use a better head unit if you wanted the RCA outputs for the amp (since the one you chose only has one), but the whole point here is, for the price you're about to pay, you could get a much better system if you did it yourself.

Those speakers will be fine off the radio only. Hell the fronts are only 30W RMS!! Those arent gonna last to long off an amp. If you were putting in better speakers then i would suggest an amp, but those will sound fine off the HU.

 

[fatboy]

i believe in doing things yourself , but just because you do it yourself it means it's done right . the trick is if you let someone do work in your car , you need to make sure is a person with good reputation. i agree with addicte2bass , if your not sure about you doing it right take it to a shop and support your local shops.they have to eat also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[xtremerevolution]

Might I add you're in for a huge disappointment if you plan to power those speakers with that head unit. Head units are not designed to power aftermarket speakers, and they fail pretty miserably at it the moment you even remotely raise the volume. The distortion rises very fast the moment you increase your bass level, and even with a remotely higher volume.

 

Buy it online, and for the price you're paying to get it done at the shop, you can buy an amp and wiring kit, and you'd still come out cheaper.

 

Your head unit for $80:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18558

 

Your front speakers for $50:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17104

 

Your rear speakers for $54:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17107

 

That comes out to $182 shipped. Seriously...

 

 

Hifonics amp for $140:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16333

 

Amp install kit: $20

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19124

 

I mean these are rough estimates, and you could definitely use a better head unit if you wanted the RCA outputs for the amp (since the one you chose only has one), but the whole point here is, for the price you're about to pay, you could get a much better system if you did it yourself.

Those speakers will be fine off the radio only. Hell the fronts are only 30W RMS!! Those arent gonna last to long off an amp. If you were putting in better speakers then i would suggest an amp, but those will sound fine off the HU.

 

 

You really think so? That head unit will output 22W RMS x 4, and the rears are rated for 75W RMS.

 

IIRC its always best to overpower speakers than to underpower them. I'm willing to bet he'll hit serious distortion once he raises the bass and volume a little bit. The 86db sensitivity doesn't help anything either.

[fatboy]

is not always best to overpower speakers than underpower them , you simply have to know how to make what you have work the best .What you don't want is distortion and the most power you get out that h/u is 13-15 watts rms. if the 86db sensitivity

on those speakers is correct it just means that it'll take more power to get'em to play higher decibels ,but your head unit should play them o.k just not too loud ,but also they might have less distortion than a speaker with a higher sensitivity at the same volume.

 

i bring the point again is good to do things yourself , but if you don't know let someone that know more than you do it, a shop carry products that they are familiar with and will match your system better. a internet store carry a massive amount of products and if you don't know what you buying the end result might be disappointing.

[Addicted2bass]

Might I add you're in for a huge disappointment if you plan to power those speakers with that head unit. Head units are not designed to power aftermarket speakers, and they fail pretty miserably at it the moment you even remotely raise the volume. The distortion rises very fast the moment you increase your bass level, and even with a remotely higher volume.

 

Buy it online, and for the price you're paying to get it done at the shop, you can buy an amp and wiring kit, and you'd still come out cheaper.

 

Your head unit for $80:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18558

 

Your front speakers for $50:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17104

 

Your rear speakers for $54:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17107

 

That comes out to $182 shipped. Seriously...

 

 

Hifonics amp for $140:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16333

 

Amp install kit: $20

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19124

 

I mean these are rough estimates, and you could definitely use a better head unit if you wanted the RCA outputs for the amp (since the one you chose only has one), but the whole point here is, for the price you're about to pay, you could get a much better system if you did it yourself.

Those speakers will be fine off the radio only. Hell the fronts are only 30W RMS!! Those arent gonna last to long off an amp. If you were putting in better speakers then i would suggest an amp, but those will sound fine off the HU.

 

 

You really think so? That head unit will output 22W RMS x 4, and the rears are rated for 75W RMS.

 

IIRC its always best to overpower speakers than to underpower them. I'm willing to bet he'll hit serious distortion once he raises the bass and volume a little bit. The 86db sensitivity doesn't help anything either.

 

Its really a lose/lose situation with those speaker sizes. Theres really no 4x6 out there that is gonna benefit much from being put on an amp. Infinity makes a fairly beefy plate speaker, but its still a small speaker. The 6x9s could be amped, but with them being in the back it just wouldnt sound right and IMO it would be a waste to amp the 4x6s. In a car like that the only way you are gonna get good sound from the front stage is by putting some 6.5" speakers in the door. Im in the process if replacing the 4x6s in my doors with a 6.5" component set. The mids will be going in the 4x6 location, me and one of the guys i work with have already made up new brackets he just has to fiberglass them. Then im taking out the dash 4x6s and putting the tweeters up there. These will be run off a 75x2 amp. Honestly if your serious about good sound this is the only way to go. Ive fit 6.5" comp speakers in the doors of most cars ive owned including a 93 Lumina, so it can be done.

[xtremerevolution]

Might I add you're in for a huge disappointment if you plan to power those speakers with that head unit. Head units are not designed to power aftermarket speakers, and they fail pretty miserably at it the moment you even remotely raise the volume. The distortion rises very fast the moment you increase your bass level, and even with a remotely higher volume.

 

Buy it online, and for the price you're paying to get it done at the shop, you can buy an amp and wiring kit, and you'd still come out cheaper.

 

Your head unit for $80:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18558

 

Your front speakers for $50:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17104

 

Your rear speakers for $54:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17107

 

That comes out to $182 shipped. Seriously...

 

 

Hifonics amp for $140:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16333

 

Amp install kit: $20

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19124

 

I mean these are rough estimates, and you could definitely use a better head unit if you wanted the RCA outputs for the amp (since the one you chose only has one), but the whole point here is, for the price you're about to pay, you could get a much better system if you did it yourself.

Those speakers will be fine off the radio only. Hell the fronts are only 30W RMS!! Those arent gonna last to long off an amp. If you were putting in better speakers then i would suggest an amp, but those will sound fine off the HU.

 

 

You really think so? That head unit will output 22W RMS x 4, and the rears are rated for 75W RMS.

 

IIRC its always best to overpower speakers than to underpower them. I'm willing to bet he'll hit serious distortion once he raises the bass and volume a little bit. The 86db sensitivity doesn't help anything either.

 

Its really a lose/lose situation with those speaker sizes. Theres really no 4x6 out there that is gonna benefit much from being put on an amp. Infinity makes a fairly beefy plate speaker, but its still a small speaker. The 6x9s could be amped, but with them being in the back it just wouldnt sound right and IMO it would be a waste to amp the 4x6s. In a car like that the only way you are gonna get good sound from the front stage is by putting some 6.5" speakers in the door. Im in the process if replacing the 4x6s in my doors with a 6.5" component set. The mids will be going in the 4x6 location, me and one of the guys i work with have already made up new brackets he just has to fiberglass them. Then im taking out the dash 4x6s and putting the tweeters up there. These will be run off a 75x2 amp. Honestly if your serious about good sound this is the only way to go. Ive fit 6.5" comp speakers in the doors of most cars ive owned including a 93 Lumina, so it can be done.

 

Why wouldn't 5.25" comp speakers work? They fit perfectly well in my Regal.

[Garrett Powered]

you have nothing to benefit by going to 6 inch speakers in the door. the only thing you will gain is a hacked up door panel.

 

you are not trying to get more bass out of small speakers anyway. what you want from them is better highs and mids. I have seen so many people get caught up with this type of thinking. If you want more bass, then get a subwoofer. if you want better mids and highs then get 3-way components and place them in the factory enclosures and dont be hackin. tweeters in the dash, 4" mids in the doors and 6" mid bass drivers behind the seats or in the package shelf or something. the 6" mid bass are going to put out some good sound though if they are in sealed enclosures but they don't need to be in the doors, I have seen a trunk pass-thru enclosure built between the two back buckets that looked pretty good.... but the bass can come from anywhere because it is non-directional unlike highs that travel linear and define stereo imaging.

[Addicted2bass]

A 5.25" speaker is still a round speaker, while the 4x6 is oval so i would still have to make up a bracket. There are pretty much no good 4x6 speakers out there, and no comp sets that im aware of. The door panel will not be hacked, except some of the inner plastic, but it will look factory. Im just looking for good mids and highs because the bass overpowers the fronts and the 6x9s in the back are pretty much useless with the subs back there.

[fatboy]

you have nothing to benefit by going to 6 inch speakers in the door. the only thing you will gain is a hacked up door panel.

 

you are not trying to get more bass out of small speakers anyway. what you want from them is better highs and mids. I have seen so many people get caught up with this type of thinking. If you want more bass, then get a subwoofer. if you want better mids and highs then get 3-way components and place them in the factory enclosures and dont be hackin. tweeters in the dash, 4" mids in the doors and 6" mid bass drivers behind the seats or in the package shelf or something. the 6" mid bass are going to put out some good sound though if they are in sealed enclosures but they don't need to be in the doors, I have seen a trunk pass-thru enclosure built between the two back buckets that looked pretty good.... but the bass can come from anywhere because it is non-directional unlike highs that travel linear and define stereo imaging.

 

i still would like to see pics of your install.

 

come on , you can do put 6.5 speakers in the doors and make 'em look good . you talk about stereo imaging and and linearity ,but if you place your tweeter in the dash and the 6.5 behind the seat you lose all that and besides they might look more hacked than being in the doors.

[fatboy]

A 5.25" speaker is still a round speaker, while the 4x6 is oval so i would still have to make up a bracket. There are pretty much no good 4x6 speakers out there, and no comp sets that im aware of. The door panel will not be hacked, except some of the inner plastic, but it will look factory. Im just looking for good mids and highs because the bass overpowers the fronts and the 6x9s in the back are pretty much useless with the subs back there.

 

i have use different combinations on installs in this cars and found that if you want good sound with a simple install you can use

a 6.5 2 way component set on the doors or tweeters in the A-pillars. and you are right the 6x9 in the back are almost useless.

[xtremerevolution]

A 5.25" speaker is still a round speaker, while the 4x6 is oval so i would still have to make up a bracket. There are pretty much no good 4x6 speakers out there, and no comp sets that im aware of. The door panel will not be hacked, except some of the inner plastic, but it will look factory. Im just looking for good mids and highs because the bass overpowers the fronts and the 6x9s in the back are pretty much useless with the subs back there.

 

i have use different combinations on installs in this cars and found that if you want good sound with a simple install you can use

a 6.5 2 way component set on the doors or tweeters in the A-pillars. and you are right the 6x9 in the back are almost useless.

 

I beg to differ. I invite you to fade the sound in my car from both front and rear to the front entirely. You will find that there is an immense difference in sound, at least with the speakers I'm using.

[fatboy]

i don't disagree , if you have and like running back speakers you should have complete control of your system , but i agree with anyone that find backspeakers useless simply cause i don't like to use them in a car unless i use them for multimeadia porposes.i have heard good systems using back speakers ,but they are mostly used for fill.

[xtremerevolution]

i don't disagree , if you have and like running back speakers you should have complete control of your system , but i agree with anyone that find backspeakers useless simply cause i don't like to use them in a car unless i use them for multimeadia porposes.i have heard good systems using back speakers ,but they are mostly used for fill.

 

I'd say it really depends on the speaker you're using. By the same logic, you can get rid of the fronts if you don't have components and say that they're just for fill, and just replace them with tweeters. That fill makes a pretty big difference when you don't have it. The whole sound system just seems to be lacking something.

[Garrett Powered]

you have nothing to benefit by going to 6 inch speakers in the door. the only thing you will gain is a hacked up door panel.

 

you are not trying to get more bass out of small speakers anyway. what you want from them is better highs and mids. I have seen so many people get caught up with this type of thinking. If you want more bass, then get a subwoofer. if you want better mids and highs then get 3-way components and place them in the factory enclosures and dont be hackin. tweeters in the dash, 4" mids in the doors and 6" mid bass drivers behind the seats or in the package shelf or something. the 6" mid bass are going to put out some good sound though if they are in sealed enclosures but they don't need to be in the doors, I have seen a trunk pass-thru enclosure built between the two back buckets that looked pretty good.... but the bass can come from anywhere because it is non-directional unlike highs that travel linear and define stereo imaging.

 

i still would like to see pics of your install.

 

come on , you can do put 6.5 speakers in the doors and make 'em look good . you talk about stereo imaging and and linearity ,but if you place your tweeter in the dash and the 6.5 behind the seat you lose all that and besides they might look more hacked than being in the doors.

 

no, I am talking about placing the tweets in the dash for ultimate linearity. bouncing off the windshield and directly at your face.

 

the 6 is crossed over eliminating all the highs and is nondirectional, so they could even be in the trunk in a sealed enclosure. they could be subs almost. the 3-way components I have use 4" mids that go in the doors with no hacking. you could almost just use these jl components I got to run a whole car stereo with just one full range amp if you did not care about rear fill at all.

[GP1138]

i don't disagree , if you have and like running back speakers you should have complete control of your system , but i agree with anyone that find backspeakers useless simply cause i don't like to use them in a car unless i use them for multimeadia porposes.i have heard good systems using back speakers ,but they are mostly used for fill.

 

I use my back speakers through my Pioneer headunit for bass. It has a setting that allows me to use them as subwoofers. Similarly, I have the highs routed to the front, so neither is working harder than they have to. It sounds really good this way.

[Addicted2bass]

If you dont have subs then rear speakers are pretty much a must, a 6x9 speaker will give you some bass. Although its really nothing after you've had a sub. If you do have a sub though the rear speakers become little more then rear fill. Think about it, when you go to a concert you dont face away from the stage do you? Music sounds best when its coming from in front of you, not from behind. unless you have a surround sound system in your car there isnt much point in amping the rears. Not to mention the fact that if you have subs in the trunk you arent gonna get good sound out of rear deck speakers anyway. The bass back there will distort any sound those rears are putting out. So why muddy up the sound of your front stage by amping a already distorted speaker?

Again this mainly aimed at cars with subs. If you dont have subs its not a bad idea to amp the rears, as it ill mean getting a little more bass out of them

 

 

 

[fatboy]

thank you !!!!!!! thats is a better explanation.

[Garrett Powered]

Not to mention the fact that if you have subs in the trunk you arent gonna get good sound out of rear deck speakers anyway. The bass back there will distort any sound those rears are putting out. So why muddy up the sound of your front stage by amping a already distorted speaker?

Again this mainly aimed at cars with subs. If you dont have subs its not a bad idea to amp the rears, as it ill mean getting a little more bass out of them

 

 

 

 

Because with most head units you can cross over the 6x9s so they only put out highs. or you can build fiberglass enclosures for 5 inch components and have some real clear mid bass back there. this is what I have done and amped the rears with a huge amount of power. you cant even tell they are back there except the tweeters on the corners. then you see stock 6x9 grilles.

[ZacksZ34]

ok im gonna go with some subs and a amp pretty soon i looked and listened to a rockford 200watt amp wired up to 2 12inch pioneer sub(not the walmart ones either) and the really slam if i get this exact set up where would be a good place to mount the amp?????

[kwk39018]

back of the box or next to it on the floor.

[Addicted2bass]

back of the box or next to it on the floor.

 

X2

 

Back of the box will work fine for you. I like putting them on the backs of fold down seats as well. But im pretty sure the Z34s didnt have that.