Coilovers, Adj Mounts, Solid Cradle Bushings, UPDATE 3/25 Design Done!!!!

[BXX]

Well, let me address this..

 

BMW uses a strut design like some Japanese and Ford Vehicle which require adjustable upper strut mounts to change camber/caster.

 

Our rears are camber adjusted via either cam bolts or just slotting the struts... Therefore we dont need out CO kits to adjust our angles, our vehicle can already do that.

 

Now in the fronts, Caster/Camber should first be corrected via a cradle shift. If shifting the cradle cant correct camber, then elongating the upper strut mounting holes is the PROPER method.

 

Oh, and if a cradle shift cant correct the caster (as in the cradle is aligned right but caster is still out) then you fucked up a suspension component.

 

Once again, no need for adjustable mounts!

 

Tell the Beemer snobs to fuck off, swallow a granade and die. Just laugh when you say your homemade COs help your big boat outhandle their expensive sports sedans

 

Yes, as you can tell, I have Beemers and their snobby ass owners.. Hell, my CS has more options than most beemers come with

[Andrew]

those comments prolly came from guys who wasted a bunch of money!

 

BTW, what are your thoughts on using progressive rate springs instead of the single rate you are running?

[slick]

The progressive rate will probably give a bit better ride quality.

[AWeb80]

Bob, you should design some camber plates for the front....

 

 

I"ve been mulling the idea, just have no idea on where to start w/ a design.

[BXX]

those comments prolly came from guys who wasted a bunch of money!

 

BTW, what are your thoughts on using progressive rate springs instead of the single rate you are running?

 

I want progressive rate springs, but for $38/ea and shipped to my door in 10 hours from Summitracing, these will work fine until i fine tune everything, including spring rate.

[BXX]

Bob, you should design some camber plates for the front....

 

 

I"ve been mulling the idea, just have no idea on where to start w/ a design.

 

I know, I already have the design in my head.. Just one step at a time. It will adjust caster too, especially since I will be running non-stock alignment settings..

 

After the rear is done tomorrow (COs, longer lateral links, 95 Z34 7/8" sway bar) I will start work on the fronts. I already have the knuckles stripped down, just need to grind some things off, order sleeves and nuts. Install struts, figure out what length and rate spring I wanna go with, and then fab the mounts up. I have a sweet idea that stock mounts can be used...well, they arent stock on our cars

 

 

[gpchris]

Let me know how that monte bar fits!

[BXX]

Let me know how that monte bar fits!

 

I will if Ken comes down early enough with the hardware and mounts.. im offering him a good 282 for the hardware, mounts, front 3.4 bar and mounts..

[BXX]

Alright guys, heres your step by step, minus pics until I have time to upload them'

 

This is for removing the struts, sway bar, rear subframe, and lateral links!!!

 

All bolt sizes are for my 96 CS, the only difference from other years will be the strut to knuckle bolts!!!

 

For simplicity, the rear subframe will also be called the cradle

 

You will need a 2 foot breaker bar!! I also used a 20" 1/2 drive ratchet, a 18" 3/8 drive flex head ratchet, and ratcheting wrenches. You will need a nice prybar, possibly a flat blade screwdriver (You will know when it will come handy) and either a thin punch or a 10" long 1/4 drive extension to punch out the strut knuckle bolts. Use a good hammer, any wood working hammer will not be sufficiant!!

 

-Jack up car, support on jack stands

-Remove wheels (rear, duh!)

-Lower exhaust system. Remove hangers from the catalytic coverter clear to the rear

-Using 18mm wrench, remove caliper bracket bolts and remove assembly, support with something

-Remove rotor off hub, set aside

-Using a 15/16" deepwell, loosen but dont remove trailing arm to knuckle nut

-Using 21mm socket, loosed lateral link to knuckle bolts 3 turns

-Using 15/16" deepwell, remove strut to knuckle bolts. Hammer bolts outta knuckle

-Remove sway bar brackets and bushing if needed

-Using 15mm socket, extension, remove upper strut mount bolts

-Push down strut a bit, pull top outta vehicle and remove strut assembly

-Now, remove trailing arm bolt

-Being very careful, push on the upper part of the knuckle, rotating it until the spring comes out of knuckle and unloads. BE VERY CAREFUL!!! Im not responsible if you damage or hurt yourself. This is a shortcut!!

-Using 21mm socket, hold knuckle assembly and remove knuckle from lateral links, set aside

-Do these steps to the other side

-If you are removing the sway bar, use a 15mm socket and a 15mm wrench and remove sway bar bracket to body bolts.

-Remove sway bar from vehicle

-Using a 10mm wrench, remove the 2 tabs holding the brake line on the top of the subframe. BE CAREFUL!! Be prepared to install a new brake line if you arent too careful

-Using a 15mm deepwell socket, start removing the subframe bolts.

-Once all 4 are broke loose and turned out about 3-4 turns. Start removing all the bolts

-Cradle should stay put, you will need to shake it side to side and pry it a bit and it will drop out quickly

-Slide cradle from underneath the car

-Using 10mm socket, remove the 4 bolts that hold the spring bushings retainers in place. CAREFUL, 1 side will still be under very slight tension, but the brace will only pop up a couple inches when the bolts are removed all tension will be released from the spring

-Slide spring out of the cradle

-Using 21mm wrench and 21mm socket, remove all lateral link bolts and remove links if installing new ones

-Your cradle is now stripped.

 

If you are installing new lateral links like I did, the longer ones go in the rear of the cradle. If using the newer generation ones like me, the adjuster goes towards the knuckle!!

 

Installation is the reverse or removal!! Nothing really tricky here, except putting up the rear subframe. Make sure new lateral links are installed and torqued before putting the cradle back in!!!

 

I will post some pics when I get a chance. Im too tired right now to wait 2 hours while it uploads to photobucket (I haz a slow 'puter )

[gpchris]

monte bar?

[J]

sounds great, great info

[BXX]

monte bar?

 

Yup, I installed one that is specific to a 95 Z34. Even then, there are smaller bars that year, but most should be the 7/8" Its soooo fawking huge compared to the stock and a FE3 rear bar!!! This damn thing is a monster and it apprears there should be no rubbing issues, other than the brake hose, but barely. Just bend the hose bracket a bit and then it wont rub at all..

[Venom]

Nice write up man. Cant wait to do this in the spring.

[BXX]

Nice write up man. Cant wait to do this in the spring.

 

Sweet!! You know who to get ahold of to help ya

 

Yeah, 2 slammed CS are better than 1 slammed CS!!!

[gpchris]

Does the bar have to be compressed before installing? Or does it fit without having to compress it? I have the same bar, I know! Its amazingly huge compared to the factory one, Isnt factory like 1/2"? Its kinda weird my gtp has a 5/8"ish bar from the factory.....

[Venom]

Ive had that idea for awhile, but the head gasket thing has set me back on time and money. What I thought about doing was making my own lateral links but Im sure the cost and time of making them myself outweighs getting a set from the yard.

 

I think you should just start another topic with a write-up from your other posts and have a mod immediately lock it and mark it as a sticky in the FAQ section.

[BXX]

Does the bar have to be compressed before installing? Or does it fit without having to compress it? I have the same bar, I know! Its amazingly huge compared to the factory one, Isnt factory like 1/2"? Its kinda weird my gtp has a 5/8"ish bar from the factory.....

 

It really doesnt on mine, but remember, I am running lateral links that are longer than stock. Im using Gen2 adjustable lateral links from a 01 Impala. Therefore the knuckle, when I camber it correctly, is actually pushed out about 1/2-3/4" compared to stock.. Hehe, best way to space the rear wheels out without using potentially dangerous wheel spacers

[BXX]

Ive had that idea for awhile, but the head gasket thing has set me back on time and money. What I thought about doing was making my own lateral links but Im sure the cost and time of making them myself outweighs getting a set from the yard.

 

I think you should just start another topic with a write-up from your other posts and have a mod immediately lock it and mark it as a sticky in the FAQ section.

 

Yeah, im gonna redo a complete write up with all the pics and have them sticky it... I just kind wanted to jot everything down while it was still fresh in my memory as far as bolt sizes and tools needed..

[BXX]

Well, I was able to get my car on the rack this afternoon and align it..

 

Much better!! The front toe was a bit off, and I still have a caster/camber issue up front. I gotta do a cradle shift, but that will wait until I put my 3.4 bar in it.

 

The rear end on the other hand :eek: Yeah, it needed help badly..

 

Oh, and on another note, my wheels are now spaced out a nice amount. As in, they stick outta the top of the fender maybe 1/8"... WOOT!!! for not needing wheel spacers

 

Oh, and here were my fucked up specs and what it now is.. Red is outta range

 

LF RF

 

Actual Before Spec Range Actual Before Spec Range

 

Camber .7 .6 .2 - 1.2 .2 .3 .2 - 1.2

Caster 2.5 2.5 1.5 - 2.5 2.0 2.0 1.5 - 2.5

Toe(inches) .01 .07 -.05 - .05 .02 .12 -.05 - .05

 

Actual Before Spec Range

Cross Camber .6 .3 -.8 - .8

Cross Caster .5 .5 -.8 - .8

Total Toe(inches) .04 .19 -.10 - .10

 

 

LR RR

Actual Before Spec Range Actual Before Spec Range

 

Camber -.01 .08 -.4 - .6 -.01 -1.8 -.4 - .6

Toe(inches) .02 -.05 -.10 - .05 .00 -.06 -.10 - .05

 

Actual Before Spec Range

 

Total Toe(inches) .02 -.10 -.20 - .10

Thrust Angle .02 .01 -.15 - .15

[BXX]

Oh, and hopefully this weekend, I will be starting on a better design strut mount.. Stil uses a stock one, just with minor modification... And this one WONT allow the spring to unload and shift outta place

[BXX]

Sorry, havent uploaded the pics yet, i gotta transfer a lot from my phone from when my actual camera batteries died

 

i wish I could do a direct connect from my phone to the computer, but i gotta do a pix message to my email first..

[CRONER]

looks good,

 

glad to see another with the coilovers.

 

Have fun with that car!

[92supreme]

Nice Setup what spring rate is ideal? I am looking to remove the mono leaf spring. I like how the height is adjustible and would like to have somthing like this for the front does anybody know if the front is possible??

 

[BXX]

Nice Setup what spring rate is ideal? I am looking to remove the mono leaf spring. I like how the height is adjustible and would like to have somthing like this for the front does anybody know if the front is possible??

 

 

 

For a street car, a variable rate would be best so the spring can be preloaded a bit so it will always stay in place before its lowered onto the ground.

 

Im using 300lb 12" springs, so is Jaime, and 19cutlass94 (sorry, forgot your name) is using 250lb last I heard.

 

The 300lb is nice, especially if people are in the back seat, the rear really wont sag, but it is quite still. Avoid potholes like they are they plague, the 250lb will be a bit nicer for a daily on rougher roads, and 200 would be somewhat close to stock.

 

Still, so far, I have had ZERO issues and love them, and everything else done to my rear suspension.

[carkhz316]

This is badASS! Not to sound dumb, but is the for sure replacement for the monoleaf, specifically including say, my '92 Z???? Because I would love to do the same.