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Coilovers, Adj Mounts, Solid Cradle Bushings, UPDATE 3/25 Design Done!!!!


BXX

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Nice! Thanks, I want to put them on the top and bottoms of the spring.

 

Jamie

 

good luck with that. fhere is a reason they wont be used on my fronts and only needed on my rear coilovers until i get a new upper spring seat

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sweet! however i dont think the second gen strut mount will work with our struts.

 

One note, the upper spring seat hole may need to be drilled out to fit the strut rod snug, no bigger, 5 minutes top to drill them out.

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sweet! however i dont think the second gen strut mount will work with our struts.

 

One note, the upper spring seat hole may need to be drilled out to fit the strut rod snug, no bigger, 5 minutes top to drill them out.

 

I meant with the upper spring mount I bought to fit over the strut rod. The strut rod hole for the Gen 2 mount is maybe barely smaller, so the same thing applies. the Gen 2 mount hole can be drilled unlike the Gen 1 because its hole is made from a stamped piece of steel. The Gen 2 is more conventional and can be easily drilled out. The Gen 2 mount is better period as it will have less movement than the Gen 1 which allows plenty of movement.

 

I will be using these older mounts I have. They are still good, I took them off a 32K 03 Impala at work that blew its struts out in a dithing incident. We put on loaded struts, so I took the old units home :lol: I will also be filling the gaps in the mount with liquid urathane to prevent unwanted movement that the stock design has.

 

Jaime, the reason to not use the ES Spring Isolators is with the proper parts, noise shouldnt be an issue, plus the lip on the spring adjuster nut and upper seat arent that high. If I squeeze the isolators over these parts, there isnt much lip left that will keep the spring in place a bit more. Im gonna go ahead and heat the isolators up and squeeze them over to see if there might be an issue

 

Also, look on Summit Racing, QA1 has variable rate springs too. I will be using Hyperco which are better, double the price but still wont break anyones wallet.

 

I wanted to make another note. We are using incorrect spring rates. Even with a single rate spring, if we had the correct one, we wouldnt have springs that come unseated while jacking up the car. Ever notice how Mustang coilover kits have 120-170lb springs on them :wink:

 

What we have and are using work fine, but we are left with the nuisance of the spring unseating. No big deal, but gimme some time, and the issue will be worked out. Y'all can thank me later :lol:

 

-Bob

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sweet! however i dont think the second gen strut mount will work with our struts.

 

One note, the upper spring seat hole may need to be drilled out to fit the strut rod snug, no bigger, 5 minutes top to drill them out.

 

Sorry didnt read.. But still, the second gens threaded rod on top of the strut is longer than the first gen.

 

Second gen on the left, first gen on the right

 

02-19-09_1131.jpg

 

And heres a pic showing the peice of the second gens mount that the threaded rod goes through.. Even if its drilled its too big, theres not enough threads poking out.

 

02-19-09_1132.jpg

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I have 2 bearing assemblies. 1 for each side

 

Chris, ever heard of a tapered hole??? It not real hard to figure out. Drill it out to the size of the threaded part of the rod, then countersink it to match the larger portion of the rod..

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Any chance you could take pics while modifying those parts for the front? would help out the people interested in making their own coil overs.

 

Jamie

 

If I have a camera with me. The car will be on a lift at my work while I do pretty much everthing, including replacing the cradle and rack, so time will be of the essence. If I get a spare set of front strut assys then yeah, I will have time and take pics

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i scored some front strut assemblies at the yard today. took them to work and tore them down. i only had enough time to get off 1 of the assys brackets....

 

airhammer ftw!!!!

 

gonna go back and finish the other one tomorrow and i will be all set to get them assembled monday when my new sleeves come in

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front knuckle assys are now finished. Went back to work to get them done, had another 1/2 hour in them. Not bad at all.. except I slipped with my air hammer and hit my finger.. Hurts like hell and bled like crazy but I didnt stop until I had them finished :lol: yeah, I know im insane

 

The OE struts were still in the knuckles, so I kept one of the strut rods (if youve seen the OEs, you would understand) so I can get the Gen2 mount drilled and ready. New sleeves will be in Monday. So hopefully by next weekend, everything will be done and she will be slammed... im EXCITED!!! :burnout: :mrgreen:

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Ok, heres an update...

 

Gen2 stock mounts will work fine, but!!! You will need a 5/8" and a 1" drill bit (i.e. appx $50 for both)

 

You must drill out the Gen2's mount hole for the strut rod to the 5/8" being careful not to bind it up (it can destroy the mount) and keep it cool (or it will destroy the rubber holding it). Use some lube or the like. After that is done, you will need to drill appx halfway through that with the 1" bit. That will countersink it and allow the Gen1 strut to fit in. The upper spring seat holes will need to be drilled to the 1" also.

 

If you decide to use the Gen2 strut mounts, I recommend using something like liquid urathane to reinforce and stiffen the mount up for best results and longevity..

 

Heres the shit kicker now. I know they will work and work much much better than the Gen1 mounts, but I wont be going that route. Im gonna be patient and put forth the work to make adjustable upper strut mounts. Having easy camber and caster adjustment will be nice. Plus, they will almost more than likely be designed with sperical bearings.

 

I have the design I want done, just have to get final measurements, implement them correctly, and have it drafted up by my father to like a CAD file so I can have the parts laser cut or however. I need to find a place in my area or anywhere almost to do it.

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