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Coilovers, Adj Mounts, Solid Cradle Bushings, UPDATE 3/25 Design Done!!!!


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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Yes, it's an old thread....

I've been seeing adjustable plates on Amazon and Ebay for just under $100, but they're for other cars. Has anybody explored the concept of making adapter plates to install plates that are more readily available in?

Here's a couple, but there's quite a few inexpensive ones out there.

 

http://www.amazon.com/maXpeedingrods-Performance-Suspension-Adjustable-Coilover/dp/B00Z6CKL5Q/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1434343141&sr=1-9&keywords=Caster+Camber+Plate&refinements=p_36%3A1253495011

 

http://www.amazon.com/BlackPath-Porsche-Camber-Caster-Adjustment/dp/B00TJAN824/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1434343141&sr=1-1&keywords=Caster+Camber+Plate&refinements=p_36%3A1253495011

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Yes, it's an old thread....

I've been seeing adjustable plates on Amazon and Ebay for just under $100, but they're for other cars. Has anybody explored the concept of making adapter plates to install plates that are more readily available in?

Here's a couple, but there's quite a few inexpensive ones out there.

 

http://www.amazon.com/maXpeedingrods-Performance-Suspension-Adjustable-Coilover/dp/B00Z6CKL5Q/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1434343141&sr=1-9&keywords=Caster+Camber+Plate&refinements=p_36%3A1253495011

 

http://www.amazon.com/BlackPath-Porsche-Camber-Caster-Adjustment/dp/B00TJAN824/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1434343141&sr=1-1&keywords=Caster+Camber+Plate&refinements=p_36%3A1253495011

 

Would be nice to have something like this for W-bodies.

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  • 3 months later...

i made 5 sets of these for the 1st and 2nd gen W's (just wont work with the oem 1st gen strut bars)

 

one set is going on smurfette (BrianG's "non TGP" baby) and another is going on the Turbo regal.

 

figured id finally show someone did this....

craploads of camber adjustment (strut tower trimming required for last 20% of travel) this also to give more coilover to tire clearance and more neg camber gain under compression.

caster adjustment via the swashplate, limited but now you dont have to move the subframe to change alignment.

 

3/8ths 6061

1/4" 304 stainless

.075 steel horseshoe

fk bearings -12W monoball and chromoly cup

all metric m10x1.5/m8x1.25 hardware and threads

 

turned out badass....i was gonna get brians anodized blue since she doesnt have enough blue on 'er

 

alot of this stuff is directly related to making parts for the 442 lol

 

enjoy

 

20150911_223040_zpsusm9o32k.jpg

 

mounted up

20150913_175316_zpsmrgyty76.jpg

 

up 'er skirt shot

20150913_175336_zpstmz88d7x.jpg

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i doubt id start making and selling em. no one wants to pay more than ebay prices for shit like this....and i made em as a "full retard" thing....no expenses spared as far as strength and design. with the TR being lowered i wanted to raise the strut rod mounting point for more compression travel before he hits the koni bumpstops

 

its about 16-18$ just in the hardware fer each pair

 

ill let you two fight to the death for a set though

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lol hard to tell

 

its 63$ plus tax n free shipping from summit for the FK stainless teflon bearings and chromoly cups...can probably find similar cheaper but i dont build crap

bolts/washers/nuts break down to about 18$ each (why the hell did i keep metric....oh yeah cause only our primary engine fasteners are SAE....)

 

plates arent bad. this stuff is all from drops ive been saving (fuck i dont wanna know pricing on 1/4" 304 or 3/8ths 6061)

i only have my time into cutting, clean/debur, threading, and cleaning with a finishing pad.

 

tig the 3 swashplate to tower bolts to the horseshoe and the cup into the 304 my co worker lays nice beads for the cups so im sure he'd want cash for that...or cases of beer

 

(bearing install is just toss in it and the C clip)

i figured on masking the plates and painting the cups black to keep em from rusting

 

the fella i know that does anodizing would do the 8 plates for 60 as just an etch/natural anodize

 

on the TR ill probably just clear coat em lol

 

then i also need to WJ plates and stands so 1st gen guys would be able to make their own crossbar for a tower bar to replace the "closed top" oem 1st gen bars

 

 

full boogie would probably pop 200$.... lol aint no one gonna pay that even for a top shelf item that fixes the issues with coilovers and looks purdy

 

i sold the scratched plates (a full setup, if assembled right only the tires would see em) n some extra 8mm and 10mm stainless washers to a suspension nut on GPF for 75

 

he can get all his own hardware/welding and i dont have to do anything other than deburr everything and thread/prep and package (he's lucky washers come in packs of 50/100 and i have tons extra lol)

 

i was looking at a plate that would be able to use the 4 bolt mustang mounts, but yeah, thats just as expensive if not more lol

 

this is just another in my long line of custom parts that i only make a few of lol

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i guess i kinda just skew towards the big dogs.

but all my work on the first iteration of the 442's suspension as well as the TR leads me to believe the guys at 500+ whp dont like how loose the frontend feels as everything deflects and induces a toe out condition

 

plus.... 'cause racecar

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waterjetting the top plates is easy, i already have the pattern just gotta dig out 1/8th inch steel. i wanted a solid two bolt bar mount....none of this heim joint garbage that allows shit to parallelogram instead of resisting it. 

 

if you have someone that can tig the stainless to the chromoly cups and do 12-18 tack welds on the bolts to horseshoe bracket id give ya a helluva deal on all the plates and hardware just minus the cups, bearings and welding

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its the FK bearings -12W (wide race) cups and stainless bearings. 12 each cup and 20 each bearing. im machining bushings but a sheetmetal "shim" made from a slitted piece of 3/4od tube gives the highest shaft installed height if the cup is also mounted up high in the stainless plate. that really helps the lowered guys out.

 

i sold a blemished set without the top strut bar plates for 75, bolts/washers/nuts are 18-20 on top of that (all metric, zinc, stainless and the silver oem type armor plating, 10.9 on 10mm and 12.9 on the m8), no anodizing or anything.

 

first setup is for getting the TR on the road so youll see a current hardware pic im sure

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Cool, lmk, I'm interested in all the machined parts. Coating isn't necessary, neither is the tpo plate since I feel confident I can handle making 2 rings with 3 holes in them and welding the fstb to them. When you're ready I have months, still need to assemble the rear and working towards a MAJOR drivetrain rework.

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  • 4 weeks later...

i only have 4 sets. dont know if ill make another batch. shits time consuming and expensive

 

by the time om done with the custom strut rod to uniball bushings id have to sell a pair at $250+ to even earn a pittance for my work

 

if i had the monoball cups machined out of stainless instead of off the shelf chromoly it'd be even more.

 

i just dont see GP guys wanting to drop coin to solve a minor issue on most builds...

 

only you and another fella are interested in the last pair...not exactly high demand lol

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You'd be surprised what people would pay. The love for our cars, runs deep. I would most definitely purchase a set. At this point I'd probably have a panic attack if my gp got wrecked, lol I'm serious too.

 

Edit: To add, my god those look amazing!

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yeah but these arent a must-have item.

its just for the big dogs who are looking to change the OEM geometry to compromise for something.

in our case the TR's 16x10 Weld XP draglites and 11" slicks would hit the coilover spring/adjuster. by laying the strut back. we regain that room while still having the ride height/corner balance adjustment. it also means more finite alignment adjustments for certain track conditions/.desires.

 

by eliminated the rubber bushing we reduce the deflection and the alignment changes that result from deformation under power.

 

for the 250$ this thing "saves" us money

 

for someone like BrianG....his 1st gen gp "smurfette" is one of my favorites besides the 442 and some of the other insane people that go nuts with the 1st gen W's

for him its more of a wedding present for finding a broad that hasn't made him sell me any of his TGP's for cheep....plus he's one of a few people i can figure on doing the 2nd gen suspension swap....so i can sell him the parts we cant use on the 442 lol

 

if im going to make anything that really helps the W body world it would be 2nd gen LBJ swap LCA's and an OE 3 bolt pattern roll center correcting LBJ via monoball/pins.

 

fixing the roll center on the lowered W's (2nd gen swapped 1st,and 2nd gen, as well as all you 1.5 hermaph's) would do far more for handling than the CC plates

 

1st gen guys can just shim the LBJ down off the oe knuckle to fix it...one thing the 1st gen has over the 2nd gen suspension

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