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Looking at a 95 Grand Prix SE today


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Posted

I have one in my area for sale, and my sister's girlfriend needs a car for $1500, so I've got my eye on this one. It just went up on sale yesterday.

 

The car is a 1995 Grand Prix SE, selling for $675. LIM gasket was replaced in the last month and owner is selling because he got a new car.

 

The reason why its so cheap is as follows:

Car has 149,000 miles

Passenger side mirror is busted off

Passenger side front quarter panel is dented to hell from being side swiped

Passenger side headlight lense is missing

Clearcoat is peeling like shit

Rear end is bottoming out on bigger bumps (presumably worn leaf pads, sagging leaf, or needs new strut/strut mounts)

Rear brakes are not working too well for some strange reason. Owner said they simply aren't catching on too well. I'm guessing rotors/pads should do the trick, since my 95 regal with the same brake setup (I'm assuming), and i haven't had any such issues.

 

I'll be checking for rust, shocks conditions, heat, engine bay leaks, etc. Anything else you guys think I should look for? I'll be leaving soon to take a look at it.

Posted

i can only say check for the obvious that it runs good and all the electronics work

 

give it some open throttle and see what shes saying

 

sounds like a good deal to me, i am currently looking for a beater so i can set my vert down (no more than 1000) and its gotta be a W. ha ha i got a guy though selling a 95 lumy for a 1000 so i might pick that up.

 

anyways good luck!!

Posted

3100 or LQ1?

 

3.1. You think I'm getting anywhere near an LQ1? That's a disaster waiting to happen.

Posted

hey watch it now1 that disaster is sitting in my drive way causing enough problems without you bad mouthing it. lol :cussing:

Posted

hey watch it now1 that disaster is sitting in my drive way causing enough problems without you bad mouthing it. lol :cussing:

 

lol.

 

For her price range, I told her she needs a w-body. Her choices are either 3.8 or 3.1. She doesn't want a regal, so either a CS or a GP, and this one seems to fit the bill nicely.

Posted

yeah other then the body damage which if your handy and have any yards near you it can all be fixed it sounds like a winner to me

Posted

yeah other then the body damage which if your handy and have any yards near you it can all be fixed it sounds like a winner to me

 

How hard is it to remove that panel? I know there are plenty of junkyards near here

 

Posted

i take it your talking bout the front fender its not too bad i think ive done it to a W about a dozen times you just have to make sure you are gapped correctly

 

should be some bolts along the hood rail, connected to the bumper, and in the door jamb along with some screws and junk in the wheel well. Be careful of breaking the bolts that connect to the bumper!!!

Posted

3100 or LQ1?

 

3.1. You think I'm getting anywhere near an LQ1? That's a disaster waiting to happen.

 

Sorry, but :roll:

Posted

I removed a fender in a yard in 90 seconds... but it wasn't a reusable one. LOL!!!!

 

 

seriously, the biggest issue with helping anyone buying a car is trying to figure out if they are even going to like it. I had a girl hassle me for 6 months for a car, and though i showed her about 15 different cars, none was the right car for her.

 

on the other hand, you could always offer less, fix it and flip it.

Posted

3100 or LQ1?

 

3.1. You think I'm getting anywhere near an LQ1? That's a disaster waiting to happen.

 

Sorry, but :roll:

 

x2, people think that every damn LQ1 is unreliable. Change a belt every 60,000 miles and you're good. I've driven mine for two years without needing a single repair. None.

Posted

3100 or LQ1?

 

3.1. You think I'm getting anywhere near an LQ1? That's a disaster waiting to happen.

 

Sorry, but :roll:

 

x2, people think that every damn LQ1 is unreliable. Change a belt every 60,000 miles and you're good.

x3.
Posted

3100 or LQ1?

 

3.1. You think I'm getting anywhere near an LQ1? That's a disaster waiting to happen.

 

Sorry, but :roll:

 

x2, people think that every damn LQ1 is unreliable. Change a belt every 60,000 miles and you're good. I've driven mine for two years without needing a single repair. None.

 

Even if it was reliable, its still a shitton harder to work on than a 3100 or 3800. Everything you can do on an LQ1 takes longer. There are far more issues with these engines than there are with the 3100 or 3800, and at 149,000 miles, you'd be asking for trouble getting an LQ1.

 

I removed a fender in a yard in 90 seconds... but it wasn't a reusable one. LOL!!!!

 

 

seriously, the biggest issue with helping anyone buying a car is trying to figure out if they are even going to like it. I had a girl hassle me for 6 months for a car, and though i showed her about 15 different cars, none was the right car for her.

 

on the other hand, you could always offer less, fix it and flip it.

 

With a budget of $1500 for a car that needs to reliably take her to work and back for a while, which can take turns decently well, her options are very limited. When all you have is $1500 for a car, you generally take what you can get, and given that I know how to work on every aspect of that car and it wouldn't cost her $80+ an hour in labor to get stuff fixed, I'd think it would look like a pretty good deal for her.

Posted

3100 or LQ1?

 

3.1. You think I'm getting anywhere near an LQ1? That's a disaster waiting to happen.

 

Sorry, but :roll:

 

x2, people think that every damn LQ1 is unreliable. Change a belt every 60,000 miles and you're good. I've driven mine for two years without needing a single repair. None.

 

Even if it was reliable, its still a shitton harder to work on than a 3100 or 3800. Everything you can do on an LQ1 takes longer. There are far more issues with these engines than there are with the 3100 or 3800, and at 149,000 miles, you'd be asking for trouble getting an LQ1.

 

I disagree. The only other issue the LQ1 has is the oil pump drive seal, and I'd bet that there are 3.1's that have this issue as well. I also have found that as I work on the LQ1, that I have been misled by people on how hard it is to work on. Have you ever owned one? I can't see how they're any harder to work on than the 3800 or 3.1... sure the alternator is hard to get to, but there are bitch parts on any motor, just like the coilpacks and ICM on 3.1's and the power steering pump on 3800's. Sorry, but I still fart in your general direction on this one.

 

 

Posted

Car that takes corners well? I don't know about GP's, but the only Cutlass' that cornered worth a crap are LQ1 cars, because included in the LQ1 package came sport supsension. I'm not arguing, I'm discussing. :smile:

Posted

3100 or LQ1?

 

3.1. You think I'm getting anywhere near an LQ1? That's a disaster waiting to happen.

 

Sorry, but :roll:

 

x2, people think that every damn LQ1 is unreliable. Change a belt every 60,000 miles and you're good. I've driven mine for two years without needing a single repair. None.

 

Even if it was reliable, its still a shitton harder to work on than a 3100 or 3800. Everything you can do on an LQ1 takes longer. There are far more issues with these engines than there are with the 3100 or 3800, and at 149,000 miles, you'd be asking for trouble getting an LQ1.

 

I disagree. The only other issue the LQ1 has is the oil pump drive seal, and I'd bet that there are 3.1's that have this issue as well. I also have found that as I work on the LQ1, that I have been misled by people on how hard it is to work on. Have you ever owned one? I can't see how they're any harder to work on than the 3800 or 3.1... sure the alternator is hard to get to, but there are bitch parts on any motor, just like the coilpacks and ICM on 3.1's and the power steering pump on 3800's. Sorry, but I still fart in your general direction on this one.

 

 

 

try a thermostat or lim gaskets on a 3X00 vs the same on an lq1, and then tell me there harder to work on.

Posted

3100 or LQ1?

 

3.1. You think I'm getting anywhere near an LQ1? That's a disaster waiting to happen.

 

Sorry, but :roll:

 

x2, people think that every damn LQ1 is unreliable. Change a belt every 60,000 miles and you're good. I've driven mine for two years without needing a single repair. None.

 

Even if it was reliable, its still a shitton harder to work on than a 3100 or 3800. Everything you can do on an LQ1 takes longer. There are far more issues with these engines than there are with the 3100 or 3800, and at 149,000 miles, you'd be asking for trouble getting an LQ1.

 

I disagree. The only other issue the LQ1 has is the oil pump drive seal, and I'd bet that there are 3.1's that have this issue as well. I also have found that as I work on the LQ1, that I have been misled by people on how hard it is to work on. Have you ever owned one? I can't see how they're any harder to work on than the 3800 or 3.1... sure the alternator is hard to get to, but there are bitch parts on any motor, just like the coilpacks and ICM on 3.1's and the power steering pump on 3800's. Sorry, but I still fart in your general direction on this one.

 

 

 

try a thermostat or lim gaskets on a 3X00 vs the same on an lq1, and then tell me there harder to work on.

Agreed, I have seen you do your thermostat, And i have done mine twice now, I can tell you without a doubt the 3X00's are harded. :lol: Like john said, Every car has bitch parts. :lol:
Posted

Freakin hell man. Everyone around here bitches about how their LQ1 cars are giving them issues, so I'm following suite. Now if you want to argue against how shitty the LQ1 is or isn't, feel free to post another thread about this, but for the time being I need to know what else to look for in this car.

 

I know every car has its difficult parts, but the LQ1's engine bay looks comparatively nauseating. She needs a car that's easier to work on, and so far my 3800 has been extremely easy to work on, and I haven't heard as many people complaining about the 3100's as they have about the LQ1. There are some LQ1 loyalists around here but there are plenty of other people that think its a nightmare to work on it, so in light of that, I'm saying I wouldn't touch an LQ1. If you'd like to argue that an LQ1 is more reliable than a 3100 or 3800, be my guest, but not in this thread. I'm not going to get into a pissing argument with a couple of people who think the LQ1's are perfectly reliable cars when there are plenty of other people who would beg to differ. I'm not taking my chances, and if this GP had an LQ1 selling for $675, I wouldn't even consider it.

 

This argument shouldn't have even been started, as I clearly stated in the title that its a grand prix SE. I don't remember ever seeing a GP SE with an LQ1.

 

Car that takes corners well? I don't know about GP's, but the only Cutlass' that cornered worth a crap are LQ1 cars, because included in the LQ1 package came sport supsension. I'm not arguing, I'm discussing. :smile:

 

Keep in mind when cornering well, we're comparing this to a 97 Ford Windstar, a 97 Accord EX V6, and a 98 Camry, all of which can't take a turn worth a damn. The Accord handles like ass even with poly bushings.

Posted

Car that takes corners well? I don't know about GP's, but the only Cutlass' that cornered worth a crap are LQ1 cars, because included in the LQ1 package came sport supsension. I'm not arguing, I'm discussing. :smile:

 

Sorry, no stock w-body corners well. Although, I'll give you credit that LQ1 cars would handle better out of the rest. Since the LQ1 is such a boat anchor, that's some good weight to help stick to the corner(or just a shit ton of understeer.)

Posted

Car that takes corners well? I don't know about GP's, but the only Cutlass' that cornered worth a crap are LQ1 cars, because included in the LQ1 package came sport supsension. I'm not arguing, I'm discussing. :smile:

 

Sorry, no stock w-body corners well. Although, I'll give you credit that LQ1 cars would handle better out of the rest. Since the LQ1 is such a boat anchor, that's some good weight to help stick to the corner(or just a shit ton of understeer.)

 

Mine corners well for what it is. Sticks to the road real nice, although I wouldn't put it through any crazy turns doing 50 MPH. Just saying the steering is nice and tight.

Posted

Mine corners well for what it is. Sticks to the road real nice, although I wouldn't put it through any crazy turns doing 50 MPH. Just saying the steering is nice and tight.

 

From stock, add a front and rear STB, and decent struts, to any stock W-Body, and you have a decent handling car, IMO. I stand by this statement as well, but I add that tires and swaybar size does make a difference. I've tossed my W's around some nasty curves, and Adam autocrosses his 3100 GP pretty often. Unless you're buying a high-performance vehicle, I'd wager no car from 1995-down is going to handle well in stock form.

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