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Posted

So I've done quite a bit of maintenance on the regal's suspension. I replaced the shocks and struts with KYB GR2's, the rear strut mounts, fitted both front and rear sway bars (addco rear) with Energy Suspension greased poly bushings, and now I'm ordering a pair of front strut mounts (which are 182,700 miles old) because they're making clunking noises when I go over big potholes similar to the way the rear mounts were. RockAuto had the KYB mounts for $26 and 5% discount, came out to $55 shipped.

 

In any case, even after I replaced the rear strut mounts in the regal, I still have some metallic clanking noises when I go over big bumps, and that's aside from the creaking in the rear right of the car that I suspect is coming from the trailing arms. Any idea what that clanking noise could still be?

Posted

Poss Monoleaf Tip Pads?

 

The rear monoleaf is a lowered Flex-A-Form custom made leaf installed at 140,000 miles, but I'll check on those pads anyway just in case.

Posted

Your Regal isn't the only 1st Gen with a RSTB btw...  :nono:

 

Yeah but its the only 1st gen *Regal* with a RSTB. I know this because nobody else aside from AWeb would be crazy enough (or awesome enough) to cut me my own mount (regal lid hinges have less clearance than other w-bodies).

 

IMG_0652.jpg

Posted

Poss Monoleaf Tip Pads?

Update: I just checked the tips of the monoleaf. On the left side, the pad is worn in half, and on the right side (which is the one making the most noise), there isn't a pad at all!

 

Where do I get this part?

Posted

I made a homemade one for other cars. Couldn't he have as well?

 

Could have, but to date I certainly haven't seen a single other 1st gen regal with a RSTB.

 

ZeroDCX said my regal isn't the only 1st gen with a RSTB. To my knowledge though it is the only 1st gen Regal with a RSTB. IF he has one, I want a photo of it. :biggrin:

 

Then I'll change my sig to 1 of 1 1st Gen Regal Coupes with RSTB. :biggrin:

Posted

napa sells the pads. there is a thread on here with the part number.

 

Already got them. Moog pads ordered to arrive tomorrow via Advance Auto, $22 for the pair. Hopefully that fixes more of my noise issues. I'm not sure how much more can be done with this car to remove suspension noise aside from lateral links and trialing arms, but those don't even make noise do they?

Posted

Then photos you shall have!!!

IMG_0055.jpg

IMG_0002.jpg

IMG_0023.jpg

IMG_0022.jpg

IMG_0027.jpg

IMG_0028.jpg

 

Looks like you better change that quote to "1 of 2 w-body 1st gen Regals..." or " 1 of 1 w-body 1st gen Regal Coupes ..." :willynilly: I'm just messing with ya man. The Rear STB is thanks to AWeb80 of course.

Posted

Then photos you shall have!!!

IMG_0055.jpg

IMG_0002.jpg

IMG_0023.jpg

IMG_0022.jpg

IMG_0027.jpg

IMG_0028.jpg

 

Looks like you better change that quote to "1 of 2 w-body 1st gen Regals..." or " 1 of 1 w-body 1st gen Regal Coupes ..."  :willynilly: I'm just messing with ya man. The Rear STB is thanks to AWeb80 of course.

 

Oh you lucky bastard. My regal conveniently has a latch system that won't work with Aweb's standard mounts. Here, check this out:

 

IMG_0596.jpg

 

I still don't know why GM had to make mine different.

Posted

Wow ... that's completely different. How're your mounts designed? Isn't that similar to the Lumina's setup? I believe they had to get special mounts as well.

Posted

Wow ... that's completely different. How're your mounts designed? Isn't that similar to the Lumina's setup? I believe they had to get special mounts as well.

 

Very similar to the Lumina setup.

Posted

Wow ... that's completely different. How're your mounts designed? Isn't that similar to the Lumina's setup? I believe they had to get special mounts as well.

 

Very similar to the Lumina setup.

 

except my current design works w/ both lumina hinge styles now.....woot

Posted

So I contacted Flex-A-Form regarding the pads on the leaf, and they charged me $4 each plus $5 shipping. Not too bad, so I bought those as well and will see which ones fit better.

Posted

One more thing I need to know.

I've got an audible humming/vibrating noise coming out of the front right wheel when and only when I take a large left turn. You can't hear it on right turns. Any idea what the cause of this is? Its been happening for quite a while now.

Posted

Possibly the wheel bearing.

 

could you elaborate a bit? Would it be difficult to replace? Expensive?

Posted

It's not too horrible. The wheel bearing/hub assembly will come out as a whole unit, along with the ABS sensor.

Posted

It's not too horrible. The wheel bearing/hub assembly will come out as a whole unit, along with the ABS sensor.

 

So what would need to be replaced exactly, and how much would it cost me in parts? Is this a safety issue if I don't do it? Remember, it only makes the noise when I'm turning to the left. Otherwise it doesn't make a sound.

Posted

Well, if it is infact a bad wheel bearing, rockauto.com has a Timken Bearing and Hub Assembly for $58.79 before the 5% discount. Timken is THE brand you want to get. And just happens to be the cheapest also!

 

You can check verify that it is the wheel bearing by jacking the car up on that wheel, put it on a stand, and grab the wheel at 6-12 to rock back and forth, and at 3-9. If you have movement all around when rocking the wheel, it's generally a bad bearing. If only at 3 and 9, bad tie rod end. If only at 6 and 12, bad balljoint.

Posted

Well, if it is infact a bad wheel bearing, rockauto.com has a Timken Bearing and Hub Assembly for $58.79 before the 5% discount. Timken is THE brand you want to get. And just happens to be the cheapest also!

 

You can check verify that it is the wheel bearing by jacking the car up on that wheel, put it on a stand, and grab the wheel at 6-12 to rock back and forth, and at 3-9. If you have movement all around when rocking the wheel, it's generally a bad bearing. If only at 3 and 9, bad tie rod end. If only at 6 and 12, bad balljoint.

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.

Posted

Well, if it is infact a bad wheel bearing, rockauto.com has a Timken Bearing and Hub Assembly for $58.79 before the 5% discount. Timken is THE brand you want to get. And just happens to be the cheapest also!

 

You can check verify that it is the wheel bearing by jacking the car up on that wheel, put it on a stand, and grab the wheel at 6-12 to rock back and forth, and at 3-9. If you have movement all around when rocking the wheel, it's generally a bad bearing. If only at 3 and 9, bad tie rod end. If only at 6 and 12, bad balljoint.

 

This should be fairly easy then. Ball joints and tie rots were replaced not more than two years ago. Thanks for the tips. I'll check it out tonight when I replace the leaf spring pads and front shock mounts. It feels pretty good having a 183,000 mile Regal that drives and functions like new.

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