need some honest opinions

[AL]

i have had many thoughts about what i am going to do with my car... all the work will be done by me and remember that money is not an issue...

 

1. rust on the doors and rear fenders... i have debated having them converted and sanded down and smoothed out and repainted, or new doors all together and repainted... i dont know how bad the rust is because i havent taken the b4u off yet...

 

2. wheels... i have a set of torque stars that i want to paint black while leaving the lip silver and installing them and buying the longer studs and all that good stuff... or keeping the xlaces and just have them professionally redone or new xlaces

 

3. modding/swapping... i want to run high 10's... i really want to keep the 3.4 in it and mod it up (after rebuilding it) and go turbo with it but the limited aftermarket is hurting that... or 3.8 n/a/sc and modding it to reach my goal... or spend the money and do an ls1/2 six speed swap (possibly rear wheel drive)...

 

i am open to other ideas also... thanks in advance

[Addicted To Boost]

For wheels, I vote have the x-laces refinished. Torque stars are FTL

[AL]

you think there worth refurbishing?... the one pictured is probably the best looking wheel

[1990lumina]

I'd replace the doors - and check behind the rest of the cladding - there is probably rust on the rear quarters.

 

Don't think you'd break 10s with the 3.4 uless it was turbo - cheaper to swap in a 3.8 prbably.

 

Keep the x-lace but find some that are in better shape to refinish - those are pretty rough and unless you do the work yourself a wheel ship will charge you out the aass to fix those IMO.

[Z34-5speed]

IMO the only way you'll be able to get into the 10s with this is to turn in into a dragstrip only car(gut the shit out of it) with a heavily boosted L67 and slicks. If i were you i would just do the L67 swap, do a 5 speed swap, and then put on a few performance goodies and be happy running 13s with a DD.

 

Kyle

[AL]

what 5-speed bolts to a l67?

[Addicted To Boost]

I vote turbo 3.4! A boosted LQ1 would be sick. L67 has been done too many times..

[ismellrealbad]

perf - 5 spd is not the way to go for 10s. good luck and talk to people on 60degreev6 for the 3.4 route or zzp/intense for the 3.8. money not being an issue is a HUGE advantage with these cars.

 

wheels - i like the black torque star idea. if you stick with xlaces find a better set than yours to refinish. those (if they are actually yours) look just completely trashed.

 

rust- get new doors, god knows whats behind the b4u. cheaper and more reliable to paint a rust free door than to fuck with your rusty door.

 

 

ps: to answer your 5spd question click the link in my sig. again, i recommend staying auto tho for that kind of power.

[AL]

I vote turbo 3.4! A boosted LQ1 would be sick. L67 has been done too many times..

 

qtf... no comments on the ls1 or ls2... wow

 

perf - 5 spd is not the way to go for 10s. good luck and talk to people on 60degreev6 for the 3.4 route or zzp/intense for the 3.8. money not being an issue is a HUGE advantage with these cars.

 

wheels - i like the black torque star idea. if you stick with xlaces find a better set than yours to refinish. those (if they are actually yours) look just completely trashed.

 

rust- get new doors, god knows whats behind the b4u. cheaper and more reliable to paint a rust free door than to fuck with your rusty door.

 

 

ps: to answer your 5spd question click the link in my sig. again, i recommend staying auto tho for that kind of power.

 

yes those wheels are actually mine... new doors it is!

[Venom]

If youre car is your DD I wouldnt even think about trying to hit 10s with it. You would probably have to run race gas and like Z34-5speed you would have to basically turn it into a drag strip car which would not be reliable at all.

 

As for the Xlaces, I say refinish them. And for the rust, its better to eliminate it all together so it cant come back.

[BIGBULS]

I say be realistic and shoot for low 12's (maybe high 11's).

 

A street trim LQ1 (even a lighter manual trans car) is going to weigh 3400lbs MINIMUM (most are closer to 3500 with options), and since a street-tired 3400lb Viper can run low 12's with around 400whp (a FWD car will require more than this........a FWD car on slicks launches about the same as a well driven Rear driver on sticky street tires)................and since it's going to be hard to get an LQ1 past 400whp without major MAJOR work..........

 

You see my point

 

 

 

 

 

 

*I* rather think that a W-Body turning 12.XX at the track will STILL be a pretty good conversation piece

 

Hell, there is a guy on Bstuff.com with a low 13 second Corsica, and he has people mob him (asking "WTF!!!") after his first run every time he goes to the track.

[AL]

this isnt my daily driver... this is going to be a track car

[dbtk2]

I think 10's will be harder to achieve than you realize. However, the easiest/cheapest way to do it BY FAR is to swap in a 3800/4t65e and turbo it. All of the tranny parts are available to make the tranny handle the power, and making enough power to run those times is actually fairly easy with the right turbo kit. Low miles L67/L32 bottom end, t67 z7 kit, big fmic, ST4 cam, ported heads, and then a tranny with all the goodies. Drop that in, and with slicks and actually getting them to hook up, even without a shitton of weight reduction, I'd expect high 10's at ~125-130.

 

I'm sure you could probably do it with a 3.4, but the amount of work/cost involved would be significantly more.

 

However, have you ever driven/ridden in a 10 second car? How about even a 12 second FWD car. Driving a FWD car with that kind of power is a handful, to say the very least.

 

A street trim LQ1 (even a lighter manual trans car) is going to weigh 3400lbs MINIMUM (most are closer to 3500 with options), and since a street-tired 3400lb Viper can run low 12's with around 400whp (a FWD car will require more than this........a FWD car on slicks launches about the same as a well driven Rear driver on sticky street tires)................and since it's going to be hard to get an LQ1 past 400whp without major MAJOR work..........

 

A 400whp GTP will typically go mid 11's with no weight reduction and bottom 11's with some weight dropped on slicks... Zooomers GTP went 10.87 @ 125 with a 410whp M90 setup.... Of course that car was gutted pretty well, obviously was an auto, good 60', good conditions, etc... My dads GTP, race weight of over 3400lbs went 12.0 @ 115 with 315whp. I agree it will be hard to achieve his goals with an LQ1, but just saying it doesn't take as much power to run those times as you are saying...

[BIGBULS]

I was looking at more reliable/repeatable times.

 

Don't get me wrong, I am SURE a really good driver on a well dialed-in car can run quite a bit faster..........but since *most* guys jump into slicks and start off cutting 1.8-1.9 60 times (NOT exactly awesome for slicks), AND that a 400whp LQ1 will leakly be a 400lb/ft (or LESS) car............*I* would say it'll take a SOLID 400whp to run low 12's-high 11's on a CONSISTANT basis.

 

And if I'm off, and he/she/it/they run faster, all the better

[AL]

I think 10's will be harder to achieve than you realize.

honestly, i dont care about how long it takes or how much i spend to achieve my goal

 

However, the easiest/cheapest way to do it BY FAR is to swap in a 3800/4t65e and turbo it. All of the tranny parts are available to make the tranny handle the power, and making enough power to run those times is actually fairly easy with the right turbo kit. Low miles L67/L32 bottom end, t67 z7 kit, big fmic, ST4 cam, ported heads, and then a tranny with all the goodies. Drop that in, and with slicks and actually getting them to hook up, even without a shitton of weight reduction, I'd expect high 10's at ~125-130.

 

ill look into that...

 

I'm sure you could probably do it with a 3.4, but the amount of work/cost involved would be significantly more.

 

what would it take?

 

However, have you ever driven/ridden in a 10 second car? How about even a 12 second FWD car. Driving a FWD car with that kind of power is a handful, to say the very least.

 

i havent but i want to... but after any mod i add, i plan on learning how the car handles with the additions before i take it to the track so i know what im doing

 

Don't get me wrong, I am SURE a really good driver on a well dialed-in car can run quite a bit faster

 

which i will be... even if i have to pay for lessons... i also plan on going to a stock car driving school...

 

*I* would say it'll take a SOLID 400whp to run low 12's-high 11's on a CONSISTANT basis.

 

which is why i considered the lsx swap, cause there around 350/400 hp at the crank so that would give me a nice start on track times

[Z34-5speed]

How about a Turbo LX5?

[AL]

lx5 is which motor? is that the 5.3L GXP/MCSS motor?

[jeremy]

lx5 is which motor? is that the 5.3L GXP/MCSS motor?

 

no...it is the 3.5 from the intrigues

[Night Fury]

How about a Turbo LX5?

 

HOT!

[AL]

ooooo000000oooooo i like that idea...

[bodeen2007]

if money is not an issue then why not go with a twin turbo northstar. Now that would be sick as hell.

[Night Fury]

if money is not an issue then why not go with a twin turbo northstar. Now that would be sick as hell.

 

Hloy tits!!!!

[AL]

the caddy 4.6? how do they compare to the ls motors

[Z34-5speed]

They are completely differant engines in that: LS series = Pushrod, Northstar = DOHC(IIRC). I have no experience with either but from what i've heard the LSs are the better/more modd-able engines. I believe Andrei(Sp?) has a Northstar in his Bonne.

[AL]

did the northstar come with a manual tranny?