airbe5car Posted August 8, 2003 Report Share Posted August 8, 2003 Hey, everybody I have a problem, my driver side power window of my cutlass won't go down. It got stuck in down position but luckily I got it back up and it hasn't worked since then. I removed all of the door paneling to see what the problem is but I don't know. The motor makes noises like it still works, but no results. Not my area of expertise I guess. I'm hoping it's something I can fix so I don't have to pay like $300 or anything. If this has happened to anyone any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted August 8, 2003 Report Share Posted August 8, 2003 Most of the time, the problem is with the square plastic guide. The pivot arm of the power window motor connects to that square plastic guide. The square plastic guide moves horizontally in either direction along the rectangular bar in which the window bottom part sits on it. The square plastic guide may have cracked and it makes the arm of the power window motor to get dislodged out of that square plastic guide when the window is move down or up. Check that square plastic guide and if it is cracked then remove it and replace it. You can get it a local junkyard .. Make sure you put some grease on the rectangular bar where the square plastic guide glides on. If the square plastic guide is fine, then more likely some gears of the power window motor is torn and the power window motor needs to be replaced which is not hard either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 8, 2003 Report Share Posted August 8, 2003 If the motor is making noise, it sounds like some of the gears may have gotten chewed up. Does it actually sound like the motor is spinning? I had a regulator that had chewed up gears once. The window would only close about 2/3 of the way up and needed to be helped the rest of the way up. I ended up buying a new regulator from a junkyard and swapping it in. The annoying part is you have to grind the rivets out of the regulator to get the assembly out. If you were going to replace the motor/gearpak assembly on the regulator, you'd also need to drill out the rivets that hold it onto the regulator. I didn't have to deal with that because I swapped the whole thing. I held the new one in using nuts, bolts, and lockwashers. You can get motors and regulators a lot cheaper off Ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airbe5car Posted August 9, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2003 Thanks for some direction with the window. I looked at it and the motor is definetely working but seems in fact to have the final gear stripped. The gear teeth on the arm are apparently fine but when I hit the switch the motor shakes around like it isn't catching on something. I can get the window down manually and back up (I never really tried that) so I looked at the arm and plastic guide thing and they seem to be fine. I'll check into getting a new motor and a regulator off ebay or a local junkyard. So, installation isn't that bad? I'll give it a try this week. I appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPaganel Posted August 9, 2003 Report Share Posted August 9, 2003 Actually, today I found out that the best thing to pop GM rivets is DeWalt pilot point drill bits. First you knock the center of the rivet out with a punch, then drill with the appropriate size bit. The pilot point fits into the center hole. 99% of the time the rivet falls off. If it starts spinning, light pressure on the part will hold it still or it can be finished off with a chisel. I spent the day at the boneyard getting bracketry for my van, so I am speaking out of recent experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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