removing front seats

[AL]

how hard is it to remove the drivers seat... how many bolts? will a simple socket kit do the job? i need to take the drivers seat out to mount my trunk release lever

[AWeb80]

yep

 

on my GP, it's like 10mm bolts or so....

4 of them.

[AL]

where are they? do you take the whole slider track out with it?

[AWeb80]

4 corners....bolt right to the floor

 

the tracks come out w/ the seat

[AL]

ok thanks adam

[rockfangd]

mine are reverse torx but a 12 point 8mm works great too. SLide the seat all the way back to remove the front ones then slide it all the way forward to remove the back ones, Easy as pie

[Venom]

mine are reverse torx but a 12 point 8mm works great too. SLide the seat all the way back to remove the front ones then slide it all the way forward to remove the back ones, Easy as pie

 

I was about to say the same thing since Im taking my seats out to replace them with leather. I bet its going to be a bitch though to get the rear track bolts out of the junk yard car if its a power seat since I wont be able to move the seat.

[jeremy]

 

I was about to say the same thing since Im taking my seats out to replace them with leather. I bet its going to be a bitch though to get the rear track bolts out of the junk yard car if its a power seat since I wont be able to move the seat.

 

many of the yards around here will let you drag a used battery out in the yard to temporarilly power a car one if you ask.....couldn't hurt to ask the one that you are going to if they have one sitting around you could borrow for 10 minutes, it would make things a LOT easier

[rockfangd]

exactly. There is a way but it is hard to explain. It involves a power drill, a part from a power seat, and a pair of pliers.

IF you look under a power seat there will be 2 or 3 brown or yellow long parts, (unsure the name of the part but you cant miss them)

Basically what you do is either squeeze the end of one side with your fingers (or a pair of pliers) and pull it out. (just think of a snap in fuel line, almost the same concept) When you pull the side out it will have a square cable that is now exposed.

Now comes the hard part, grab a second adjuster (the brown or yellow tube looking thing lol) and insert it into the hole of the one you just removed and you will now have 2 cables exposed, one from the left track, and one from the right track.

Next take your drill and insert one of the sides of the cable into the drill and spin it clockwise or counterclockwise, (whichever way makes the side move the way you want it)

Do this to both cables a little at a time until the both sides are far back enough to clear the bolts.

This may sound confusing but it has worked in a pinch for me many times.

 

There is one other way that works only if the seat is raised up in the front (usually an old persons car lol) look for the black track section where the brown or yellow cable goes to each side (It will be near the front on both sides) and you will see a part that is held onto the track with 2 bolts, Remove the bolts from both sides of the track and remove the boxes with the cable assemblies still attached, They will have a gear screw facing doen that goes into the track assembly. Once you remove the bolts and pull the boxes you can move the seat forward or backward. This also has worked for me many times but is confusing also. This may not apply to all seat tracks but it is hard to explain without looking at the track lol

Or you can hope they will let you hook up a battery, usually around here they dont lol

Hope this helps

[AL]

yah its 8mm... got it out easy as pie... got my trunk release lever mounted finally

[Crazy K]

8mm 6 point 1/4"inch drive works best

[AL]

^^^^^^^ what i used

[rockfangd]

lol either one works^^^^

[Crazy K]

12 point = too much risk of rounding.

[Venom]

 

I was about to say the same thing since Im taking my seats out to replace them with leather. I bet its going to be a bitch though to get the rear track bolts out of the junk yard car if its a power seat since I wont be able to move the seat.

 

many of the yards around here will let you drag a used battery out in the yard to temporarilly power a car one if you ask.....couldn't hurt to ask the one that you are going to if they have one sitting around you could borrow for 10 minutes, it would make things a LOT easier

 

Yeah Im taking my jump starter box just in case. Kinda dont want power seats but Im not sure if you could get leather seats without the power option on them. But I can always swap tracks from my old seats if I really wanted to.

[Addicted to eaton]

Cutty's and Gp's are diffrent i remeber that.

[jeremy]

Cutty's and Gp's are diffrent i remeber that.

 

wrong....all 1G seats have the same tracks

[Addicted to eaton]

my 95GP and 96CS had diffrent Bolt's.... don't tell me im wrong lol. I have had them both.

[jeremy]

my 95GP and 96CS had diffrent Bolt's.... don't tell me im wrong lol. I have had them both.

 

again, all 1G w-bodies have the same seat tracks....and you will be the only on this forum to argue otherwise.

[Addicted to eaton]

yep

 

on my GP, it's like 10mm bolts or so....

4 of them.

 

The cutty's are not bolt's there reverse torx

[jeremy]

bolts ...I thought you were talking about Venom referring to the seat tracks in the post immediately before your post.... fwiw: the bolts in every 1G I have owned (lumina, GP, cutty) have been the reverse torx, your cutty might have had them swapped at some point in time

[GP1138]

All W seats are removable with an 8mm. I've never had one that was an exception.

[Venom]

Yup used an 8mm today at the yard to get my new seats. I brought along my battery jump box and it worked great to move the power drivers seat forward and back to get at the bolts. I still say the box was the best $2.95 I ever spent.

[jeremy]

$2.95 is a great price

[Andrew]

All W seats are removable with an 8mm. I've never had one that was an exception.

2nd gens use a T45 or T50, cant remember which.