meltboy1 Posted July 17, 2008 Report Posted July 17, 2008 Well, all fuses and relays check to be good, so if my clutch on the AC compressor isn't engaging, does that mean I need a new compressor? I can freely move the clutch by hand and it feels fine. Quote
Crazy K Posted July 17, 2008 Report Posted July 17, 2008 No. it most likely means that you do not have enough system pressure to allow the system to operate. below a certain pressure the a/c system deactives as a failsafe. TRY THIS: take the A/C relay, remove the cap, and manually operate the relay with a toothpick or something. I do this with a re-charge can plugged in, once triggered and held for a maybe 5 seconds, enough pressure is built up for it to work on it's own. re-cap or replace the relay when everything is good. Quote
PCGUY112887 Posted July 17, 2008 Report Posted July 17, 2008 What all fuses/relays are there to check? I am curious since I am having the same issue. I know how to check a fuse but how do you check a relay? Quote
joey b Posted July 18, 2008 Report Posted July 18, 2008 take the cap off of the relay (located on the passenger side of the engine bay). With engine running manually operate the relay by pushing in on the springy-loaded-ish side. That should cause the clutch to engage and the compressor should operate with the engine. IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT MANUALLY OPERATING THE RELAY IF REFRIGERANT IS LOW MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE COMPRESSOR. This is why Crazy K does so with a re-charge can attached. Quote
shyguy164 Posted July 18, 2008 Report Posted July 18, 2008 No. it most likely means that you do not have enough system pressure to allow the system to operate. below a certain pressure the a/c system deactives as a failsafe. TRY THIS: take the A/C relay, remove the cap, and manually operate the relay with a toothpick or something. I do this with a re-charge can plugged in, once triggered and held for a maybe 5 seconds, enough pressure is built up for it to work on it's own. re-cap or replace the relay when everything is good. Ha ha. You could indeed take the cap off the relay and manually work its contacts. Or you could remove the relay and put a jumper wire in place of the relay contacts If you dont have a set of refrigeration gauges, which I'm assuming most dont, you can probe the low pressure switch for continuity. If it's open, low pressure. If its got continuity, charge is above the low pressure cutout. Make sure to not run the compressor for more than 10 seconds or so with the jumper method. If there is no refrigerant at all, you'll burn out the compressor pretty quick, the refrigerant flow cools the internal compressor parts in auto air conditioning. Quote
PCGUY112887 Posted July 18, 2008 Report Posted July 18, 2008 My high side is about 50psi while running, mechanic said that should be high enough for the compressor to kick in, but it doesn't. I guess this whole time (even winter with defog) I didn't know I wasn't using the compressor. Quote
meltboy1 Posted July 18, 2008 Author Report Posted July 18, 2008 ok I will check the pressure, I do have the gauges. But it hasn't been converted to 134a yet so I would probably have to get that done, good to know it isn't my compressor! ya, just to make sure, I did just jump it quick and it came on, so that leaves me with checkin the pressure when I get home tomorrow, I don't have my gauges on me. Quote
meltboy1 Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Posted July 20, 2008 someone refresh my memory, the low pressure side is the one that stands up vertical right? the high is the one that is parallel with the ground? Quote
slick Posted July 20, 2008 Report Posted July 20, 2008 The refill kit will only fit on one of the fittings. The other one will be too big. IIRC, the fitting you want is the lowest one of the two. Quote
joey b Posted July 20, 2008 Report Posted July 20, 2008 I dont' remember, but I do remember that the R-12 has the same high and low port. I think the high side is normally the thicker tube. Quote
Addicted To Boost Posted July 20, 2008 Report Posted July 20, 2008 The low side port is the one that points sideways toward the engine (and on your TGP it will point directly at the turbo). The high side port points straight up toward the hood. Quote
meltboy1 Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Posted July 20, 2008 ok thanx, I am refering to my 89, but it should be the same , the TGP blows colder than any car I have had. Quote
Fleeingpepper Posted July 20, 2008 Report Posted July 20, 2008 I dont' remember, but I do remember that the R-12 has the same high and low port. I think the high side is normally the thicker tube. The high pressure (liquid) line is thinner. The low pressure (vapor) line is bigger. Think about it. Higher pressure, more compressed, makes it smaller, it needs less space. Quote
DavidHowell3633 Posted July 25, 2008 Report Posted July 25, 2008 Your coolant temp sensor may play a part in engaging the clutch also. At least it does on mine. Quote
meltboy1 Posted July 25, 2008 Author Report Posted July 25, 2008 o ok, thanx, I will keep that in mind. Quote
frank b Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 You may only need the clutch, it can be purchased seperatly but you'll need some special tools to remove/install it. You can "rent" them at autozone. The clutch is engaged by an electro-magnet, and it can go bad. Just like an alternator, starter, or ignition coil, the windings can seperate or melt. Quote
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