shadow Posted July 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 yes i would say its very possible to have an air pocket in it. Very easy to fix start the car open both bleeder screws with a flat head screwdriver and wait until coolant comes out steadily of both bleeder screw holes. Then your air pocket will be gone. Wheres the second bleeder screw? thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krenzy Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 There's only one. But the screw has two holes, one on each side. You'll see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutty Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 There's only one. But the screw has two holes, one on each side. You'll see it. Thats what i meant! i just worded it wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow Posted July 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 I have just one screw on top of the tstat housing looks like it is made of brass. No two screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutty Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 yes, my mistake, only one screw and yes it is brass. Don't screw it all the way out though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow Posted July 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 Well he place says the waterpump is leaking. They offered me some time to decide if i want to do it myself. I bught the pump but everyplace claims I dont need a water pump cover bolt holding tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 you cant take out the rad, but you are going to attempt doing a water pump? I have never had to do a water pump on any of mine yet, couldnt help you there. oh and the one has almost 200k on it, guess I am lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow Posted July 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 you cant take out the rad, but you are going to attempt doing a water pump? I have never had to do a water pump on any of mine yet, couldnt help you there. oh and the one has almost 200k on it, guess I am lucky. Yeah the guy made it sound like doing the waterpump myself is really simple?? Says otherwise I am looking at a $350.00 job. I am trying to lean I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 You stated that if you remove the bleed screw at the top of the T-stat housing and no water comes out. You need to go through the bleed process to get all of the air out of the top of the coolant line. If you do not do this you will cook your engine...literally. Do you see puddles under the car? If not...your pump is not leaking or anything else for that matter. Do the bleed procedure and then see where your temps hover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 dont go back there. look in the phone book and find a radiator repair shop. like A-1 Radiator or something. do the radiator,then worry about the air bubble thing. usually if you see the temps climbing and there is air. you can open the check screw and squeeze the upper hose and still get nothing. if you just let it cool off, it will usually work itself out unless the stat is permanently stuck closed, just keep an eye on the gauge, and be easy on it obviously, but the rad is the first step in the process. see when you keep adding cold water in the rad, and the hot water is pressurized in the motor the thermostat cant open until the temps all even out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow Posted July 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 Well I changed the water pump myself today. Went pretty well and now I have no more coolant leak yay!!!. Left the bleeder screw off until coolant flowed thru and it did so I think the air is mostly out of the system. Its about 80 degrees today and the gauge hovered around 220 the entire time I was out so I may have fixed the problem. I will update this post is I drive the car more. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 160- 180 is a good temp range to shoot for. 220 is kind of hot. you need a chip and 160 t-stat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow Posted July 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 160- 180 is a good temp range to shoot for. 220 is kind of hot. you need a chip and 160 t-stat. Seems I just cant win.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 25, 2008 Report Share Posted July 25, 2008 you will get there, just take it one step at a time. you got the water pump done, but the rad is gonna have some build up in it after 18 years, unless it got flushed every few years. which most people never do. I got lucky and the previous owner just replaced it right before I bought it so it hovers just below 200. after the top gun chip I just put in its obviously way lower than that. I just dropped in a brand new 160 t-stat and it has not gone above 150 during idle learn I just performed. I haven't installed the new coolant sensors yet though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krenzy Posted July 25, 2008 Report Share Posted July 25, 2008 You can find the 160 thermostats on eBay, as I haven't found a single parts store that can find a 160 stat for our cars...atleast not cheaper than the Hypertech. I believe the part number is 9005...there's a post on TGPForums that has the part number, in an old auction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 25, 2008 Report Share Posted July 25, 2008 you can do a search at autozone.com but you have to do it for a regular N/A 3.1. it will not come up for the turbo motor they do cost more than they should but worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow Posted July 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2008 you can do a search at autozone.com but you have to do it for a regular N/A 3.1. it will not come up for the turbo motor they do cost more than they should but worth it. I am gonna check my local autozone tomorrow. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMNCFI Posted July 28, 2008 Report Share Posted July 28, 2008 Just quickly looking over this post, I have to agree, about 6 years ago my TGP would overheat every time the sun was out almost, I took it to a place where I lived at the time and they did a rod cleaning on the radiator, and it fixed the problem, my radiator was something like about 70% pugged. I know it is a lot but it is a repair that is necessary, but not needed that often Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSEiyah93 Posted July 30, 2008 Report Share Posted July 30, 2008 Please keep this going this is the exact same problem I have with mine, when I would sit in bump-to-bumper it would get way to hot for comfort, up close to the red... you got a lot more response on your post so please when you get it all said and done with let me know what it was and what worked... of course if you happen to read the "Help" post my buddy did for me, my car is out of commission right now...something else is seriously wrong with it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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