gmrulz4u Posted August 5, 2003 Report Share Posted August 5, 2003 Man, I'm totally lost here with regards to my Head Light Switch:( I have everything taken apart, and I don't know what to do next. I see there's 2 plastic connectors that plug into the back of the Head Light Switch. One at the bottom that is light blue in color, and has I think 8 wires connected to it. The smaller one at the top is light grey in color, and has 5 or 6 wires connected to it. I don't know what to do now though?? I see a grey wire that comes from the light grey plastic connector, I tried probing that wire with my Test Light when the headlights were turned ON but I didn't get any power. I'm not sure if my test prope went far enough into it though, because the damn wire is so thin! The bigger blueish connector seems to be the MAIN one though, because if I unplug it, and just leave the small greyish one connected, turning on the headlights does nothing at all...but if I just unplug the greyish connector, and leave the blueish one connected, everything seems to work OK... By the way, I never mentioned that my dimmer DOES and has always worked... Oh, and I see what you mean when you say "I bet your switch looks yellow", at first I was like what the hell is he talking about, but now that I've disconnected it and looked closer, the whole front of it has a yellow tinge to it... So what do I do next? I know that the small greyish connector has a white wire that I believe is the power wire or something, because when I touch my Test Light to that pin, I get power... Should I just cut the grey wire in order to test for power going through it, and then solder or crimp it later on when I put everything back together?? Or is there a way to just probe the pins instead of the wire insulation itself?? THANKS MAN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 5, 2003 Report Share Posted August 5, 2003 you should be able to make contact with the grey wire like you did with the white one. If you dont think you're getting a connection then just RAM it in. As a last resort if your probe is sharp enough, you can stab a small hole thru the wire insulation. You're not getting power cause the wire is dead though. Also your dimmer may work for the digital displays but that's cause your Brn/wht and yel wire gets power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrulz4u Posted August 5, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2003 OK, but here's what I don't understand... How could I just check the grey wire coming out of my cars wiring if the plastic connector isn't even plugged into the Head Light Switch? See what I'm saying? When you say "the grey wire isn't getting power", it's not getting power because there's an internal problem inside the Head Light Switch, right? So if I simply touch my Test Light probe to the grey wires metal connector coming OUT of the cars dash, how could that possibly indicate a problem with the Head Light Switch, if it's not even plugged into it?? I think that's what is confusing me...I mean, you're not saying there's anything wrong with the two wiring harness plugs that are coming out of the dash, right? So I figure I have to plug both connectors into the back of the Head Light Switch before I can actually check for power coming from the grey wire, right? I'm thinking there's certain power wires going INTO the switch, and then power wires that are supposed to come OUT of the switch, such as the grey wire, right? Fuck, maybe I'll just go buy a damn switch and see what the hell happens...if I waste the money, oh well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 5, 2003 Report Share Posted August 5, 2003 So I figure I have to plug both connectors into the back of the Head Light Switch before I can actually check for power coming from the grey wire, right? Yes. Probe the wire from the other side of the plug I'm thinking there's certain power wires going INTO the switch, and then power wires that are supposed to come OUT of the switch, such as the grey wire, right?... Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrulz4u Posted August 5, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2003 OK... I'm thinking, doesn't the Head Light Switch basically just act as a "jumper", in other words it's taking input power and then sending it back out based on what is requested. So it takes input power from the white wire, and then sends it out through the grey wire etc. when the Head Lights are turned ON. If this is the case, can't I just "jumper" the two pin connections, one for the white power wire and one for the "dead" grey wire. Won't that power-up the grey wire and send 12 volts through it? This way I can at least make SURE the interior lights illuminate etc... I placed an order for a New Head Light Switch today, fuckin' $120(Canadian) New. I still don't know if I'll actually buy it from the dealer or just go see if there's any good looking and functional ones at a local yard... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 5, 2003 Report Share Posted August 5, 2003 Why not just get a length of small gauge solid wire (you can get it at Radio Shack). You can do all sorts of stuff with small gauge solid wire. Yes, if white is the power feed (I don't remember if it is) then you can jumper it to GRY and see if your dash lights light up. That would be the easiest way. That small gauge solid wire would be real handy for doing that. Or you can always just take that solid wire, strip about 3/4" off the end of it, leave the switch connected, and just ram the end of the solid wire up the gray wire and into the connector. If you ram it up far enough, it will touch the metal contact. Then you should be able to get a reading off it that way. Red probe of your meter connected to the other end of that solid wire, and ground to any good ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 5, 2003 Report Share Posted August 5, 2003 OK... I'm thinking, doesn't the Head Light Switch basically just act as a "jumper", in other words it's taking input power and then sending it back out based on what is requested. So it takes input power from the white wire, and then sends it out through the grey wire etc. when the Head Lights are turned ON. If this is the case, can't I just "jumper" the two pin connections, one for the white power wire and one for the "dead" grey wire. Won't that power-up the grey wire and send 12 volts through it? This way I can at least make SURE the interior lights illuminate etc... I placed an order for a New Head Light Switch today, fuckin' $120(Canadian) New. I still don't know if I'll actually buy it from the dealer or just go see if there's any good looking and functional ones at a local yard... Try it out, sure as heck won't hurt anything. Dont bother buying it new, I told ya next junkyard run I'll pick one up for you, $120 CAD is insane considering I paid US $40 for one back when carparts.com was good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrulz4u Posted August 5, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2003 Yeah I know...after 15% sales tax, it'll end up running me $138 CDN, which is $98 US!! Crazy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrulz4u Posted August 6, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2003 Shit! Here's the update... Tonight I was checking all the pins that come out of the smaller grey connector...I think I realized that the switch controls each of the 5 other wires by grounding them with the white(power) wire...I think? Anyways, I was putting one end of my test light to the white wires pin, and then would experiment with the other 5 wire pins, mostly focusing on the grey wire, and seeing if it would illuminate my interior panel lights when the two were connected... For a while, nothing happened...my test light would light-up when I connected it between the white wires pin and the grey pin, but nothing inside would illuminate...then, all of a sudden, they lit-up!! I was SO happy...I couldn't figure out why they all of a sudden decided to light-up?? But now here's the strange part, I haven't been able to duplicate this since then!! I went out again a few hours later when it was actually dark just to verify everything and now I can't get the damn panel lights to illuminate again like they did earlier!! I tried everything!! Played around for about 45 minutes...couldn't get the same thing to happen again...I made sure the doors were shut, headlight switch was ON, and I even put the key to ON, and eventually started the car just to see if I could get them to illuminate again...but to no avail... While probing the other 5 wires, I found that one causes a "dinging" noise and makes the FASTEN SEATBELTS light come-on...another one makes the dash, radio clock and ECC display dim completely dark...I couldn't figure out what two of them did, and of course that just left the grey wire that would keep lighting up my test light but wouldn't illuminate the panel bulbs anymore... I checked the fuse to make sure it wasn't blown and still had power going through it when the switch was ON and it was still a-ok... So now I don't know what to do?? Is it possible that earlier I did something to force the panel lights to illuminate that I have not since been able to duplicate exactly?? This always seems to be my luck:(!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 6, 2003 Report Share Posted August 6, 2003 Instead of using a test light, just use a small paperclip or a thin wire as a jumper and see if that does anything. But dont fret, you know now its the headlight switch like I said, so replace it 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrulz4u Posted August 6, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2003 Yeah, you're right, but I just wanted to make sure it wasn't some bad wiring or a bad harness connector etc... Actually, I'm stupid anway, that white wire I've been talking about is apparently just the wire for the Courtesy Lights!!! It has nothing to do with being the "power wire" or whatever...I just assumed that because it was the only one that would light-up my Test Light when probed... Tonight I kept wondering why the white wire would loose all power/voltage when the door was open...well duh, because that's how the Head Light Switch get's it's signal as to whether any of the cars doors are open or not!!! So I bet when I was playing around earlier, I must have did something other than connecting the white and grey wires together...at least now I know I can FORGET about the white wire, as it means nothing with regards to what I'm trying to fix!!! I'm going to grab a used switch this weekend...only if I can find a GOOD one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrulz4u Posted August 7, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2003 Just thought I'd let you(Brian) know that it's all fixed...you were right, of course, and it was the Head Light Switch...I actually bought a New one through a friend of mines dad at dealer cost, which was only $65 CDN! So I figured since this seems like a common problem, might as well buy a New AC Delco one... Now that I can see all the other interior lights, for the first time, I can start replacing some of the ones that are burnt out. So far I can just see that my drivers side power window controls only light-up the WINDOWS and not the MIRRORS or LOCKS. Is it even possible to change the bulbs inside there? And if so, do I have to take the whole door panel off to gain access to them? And oh yeah, I also have to figure out why my Cigarette Lighter socket doesn't work anymore...I miss having my digital voltmeter:( THANKS AGAIN BRIAN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 7, 2003 Report Share Posted August 7, 2003 pop out the window switch panel carefully, bulbs come out the bottom with a screwdriver (twist em) glad to hear it's fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrulz4u Posted August 7, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2003 OK, thanks man! What about the Cigarette Lighter Socket?? All I remember is that it was working perfectly, has been since I had the car, and then the other day when I started investigating the Head Light Switch, I was using the Socket to make sure I had a good ground with my Test Light, and then next thing I know, the Socket is no longer working!!!?? Are these possible to replace or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 7, 2003 Report Share Posted August 7, 2003 well if you say the fuse is good, you might have to take that dash panel out and check the wiring behind it for being loose or something similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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