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3 starters later, problems, problems, problems


rockfangd

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well this all started about a year ago where once in a great while when i turn the key to crank everything would be normal except it would not even click, then within the past few months it got me stranded a few times so i decided the starter was shot so i went and purchased a new starter and a AC Delco 78n battery, it was great for 3 days then it started acting up again but it clicked loudly with no turn over. I again pulled the starter and bought a top of the line model and installed it, checked all my connections, battery terminals, alternator, everything i could think of. It was fine for 3 more days (not joking) then it started clicking again. Sometimes it will fire right up but then sometimes it will click like 10 times before it turns over. Honestly it usually messes up in the morning but the rest of the times is all random

I replaced the alternator about 8 months ago and i had everything tested good. I am just afraid that one of these days i am really going to get stuck somewhere lol.

Anyone help with this one 1994 oldsmobile cutlass supreme 3100 v6.

I have never double cranked either. (had to add that)

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Psychomatt had the same issue, but he thinks it was a loose battery connection.

 

 

check, clean and tighten all grounds. also, I was told my own 94's electrical issues might be due to a partially blown fusible link. that is... my POS chronically suffers from low voltage... but I keep finding the aux post or a ground loose... and tighten them constantly.

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well i dont see why plugs or wires would make the starter not crank but i have checked the aux post many times, is there any grounds i may be missing

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If you have an intermittent start problem where the starter will NOT engage and you have power everywhere it is your PASSLOCK wires in the column.I had to replace the lock cylinder in my daughter-in-laws 95 Cutlass in 1 1/2' of snow on Christmas.The little white wires run from the lock cylinder to a plug under the dash.From the thousands of turns of the lock cylinder these 24ga wires fray and eventually break.The lock cylinder with a new ign key is expensive because the key has a resister chip in the neck of it.Take the key to your local GM parts dept and they can tell you which lock cyl and matching key you will need.

You DO have the BLACK keys w/the chip RIGHT????

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Do yourself a favor...if you live where there's snow and salt on the roads, just change the damn battery cables. My original ones were corroded on the inside when I changed them out about 3 years ago, and I couldn't even tell until I cut them open.

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Do yourself a favor...if you live where there's snow and salt on the roads, just change the damn battery cables. My original ones were corroded on the inside when I changed them out about 3 years ago, and I couldn't even tell until I cut them open.

 

x2! Spend the 8 dollars and just get a new battery cable. mine wouldnt turn over at all, i drove to the girlfriend's house, ran fine, and than when i went to start it, wouldnt do anything. gayness.

 

My shock tower/jump point was corroded all to hell, and was also causing my ABS to not work and my E-brake light to always be on.

 

replacing that cable will take all of 15 minutes, and might save you some pain of replacing batteries and starters etc.

 

also, i agree, it might be you need a new tumbler... does the "SECURITY" light flash when it wont start?

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This happened to me awhile back and i kept getting free starters installed by my mechanic cause they were getting ruined. We (I) finally figured it out. First, the wire running to the solenoid, trace it with your fingers all the way back to wherever. Mine was grounding on the lower radiator support. Once that was fixed the problem went away, sorta. My starters still kept going bad after awhile. I used a meter and found out i was only getting 9 volts at the solenoid with the wire disconnected with the key in the start position. I didn't feel like tracing it anymore, so i ran a new wire from my column connector directly out to the starter solenoid. Voila! Problem solved. This starter's been in for over 4 years now with daily starts. A few months later, I finally figured out what the problem was. I was driving along and somehow accidentally turned the key to the start position with the car in drive and it cranked! I had bypassed the neutral safety switch. Oops. Oh well, my backup lights were crap cause of that switch, I had problems starting the car in neutral because of that switch, and the final straw was the switch dropping 3 volts or so across its contacts into heat when I'd try to start my car. So, if you've got problems with no reverse lights, difficulty starting your car in neutral, etc. Just by pass the damn switch (or replace it). Hope this helps. Another thing with everyone talking about battery cables and stuff. If headlights and stuff dont go out when you try to start your car, it's not the battery cables.

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I learned something interesting!!!!!

 

THERE IS A DIFFERENCE between 94- and 95+

 

on my 94, the Neutral safety switch actually interrupts the starter wire.

on my 95, the neutral safety switch interrupts the PASSKEY system!!!!!!!!!

 

I dismantled several NSSwitches... and the ones from 94 down were seriously scarred on the starter circuit. the 95's weren't, and now I know why!

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could that cause it to click? Awhile ago i could never start the car in neutral but recently it started working. Weird. Linked possibly????? :cry:

 

My TGP does that as well, It will start thou, inbetween nuetral and reverse..

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well today topped it 14 attempts to start the car this morning and nothing but clicks, but once i got it started it started no problem for the whole day. probably like 10 times :willynilly:

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