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Posted

For my 89 GP 5spd...

 

Ok, first question.. is the parking brake cable on a 93 GP couple different than an 89?

I replaced the cable from the drivers side caliper to the coupling or whatever where it meets with the passengers side and the foot pedal. Well got it all on, set it and couldn't move the tire by hand, it was good and tight. Put the tire on, hold in the clutch with it set and the car moves freely on the hill and I was able to drive it with very little resistence. So is my problem in the cable I replaced it with or the whole setup itself, cuz it pumps about 2 and a half times and after the first pump, it's tough to push.

 

 

My second issue. I can't figure this out, we just had both front tires off again, and looked at everything and it was all tight, couldn't move the tie rods or ball joints at all, they were solid, struts look good, even the plastic guard is still fully intact on there, and I hardly ever see that. All the bushings looked good, a little cracked but nothin serious, only thing I couldn't get a good look at was the motor mount, but I saw nothing that looked like it had blew out, but I think I remember Nick sayin that was replaced.

It doesn't always do it, it;s normally only when I am goin slow, 40 or under it seems upon acceleration mostly is when it is felt, but does it when coasting too... It's kinda like a popping noise from the front end and it can be felt in the floor boards and the pedals too... I was thinking since everything else looked good it had to be a bushing or mount, but I can't understand why it only does it when goin slow, I drive 300 miles a week on the highway to school and it NEVER does it at highway speeds... any input would be great.

 

O ya, and I forgot, the key broke off in the ignition today too, but I can at least still turn it to drive, so that's good, how hard is the ignition cylinder to replace?

 

Posted

Yes, the previous owner replaced the lower motor mount, the frame cradle bushings, and the black upper dogbone.

 

I did the following on it: balljoint, tierod end, and alignment.

 

Thats strange, I don't remember it ever making any noises or vibrating. Make sure the frame cradle bolts are tight, someone told me that if they aren't tight enough, the car might make a creaking/popping sound. This is for all 1st gen W's btw.

Posted

Ya, I know you replaced all that shit, it's all super tight, I was yankin on the tie rods and everything and it wouldn't budge... now with the subframe bolts, can I just lay under it with a ratchet, or does pressure have to be off the subframe bolts for me to be able to see if they are loose?

 

It has only recently started doin this, and it's not often, but I wana get to it before it gets bad ya know.

Posted

I was just looking through my j/y pics, and remembered that that 4door 96 gp had a key in the ignition... Would that ignition work with my 89 2 door?

Posted

ok, can someone explain to me why there is a different ignition for the standard and automatics and why the standard one is like $20 more?... lol

Posted

The manual one has a button you have to push to remove the key.

Posted

so would the auto one work ok? I ordered it from advanced cuz it wasn't in stock, but I would ratcher spend $20 than $40... lol

Posted

ok, the lock cylinder has been replaced now, wasn't that bad of a job, took me about 25 min or so to get it all done.

 

I still can't figure out whats up with the parking brake though, does it just need to be adjusted you think, cuz as I said, when I try to move the wheel by hand it doesn't wana go, but once it's on the ground, the brake does next to nothing.

 

With the subframe bolts, do I have to take stress off the subframe at all, or can I just try to tighten em as it is if they are loose?

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