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I got a code 33


god910

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So, I was getting ready to put the Ign. module from my car onto the TGP today and figured what the hell, I'll see if it'll run. It started up and idle great. Better than it had even done when I test drove it. I noticed that the SES light was on. I hit the gas and boom dead. I checked the codes w/ my highly technical diagnostic tool (paper clip) and I got a code 33 which is:

MAP HIGH CODE 33

 

Set if the MAP sensor voltage is high (68 Kpa) for 5 seconds or more and TPS is not at a high throttle setting.

4% TPS max

If sensor vacuum hose is disconnected for 5 seconds or more.

 

Now this makes sense. It won't let the TPS read more than 4% open or it shuts the engine off. Is that how to interpret that? If so that is exactly what is happening. But why? Mitch took the gauges out of the gauge pod, one was an A/F gauge (I would have thrown that one in the river) but the other one was a boost gauge, and he just taped off the fitting for the gauge, and it leaks. So is my map sensor bad? Is this leak causing my car not to run? I don't exactly know how to enterprit (sp?) this code. Help people it needs to move today.

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this might help (i hope so)

 

i did an online look up it is OBD II i came up with this

 

P0033 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit

 

i dont know if that is right or not?

 

good luck!

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Well gee wiz I remember saying something about a MAP sensor...let me refresh your memory. :wink: :lol:

 

The 5-speed chip is faulty, but if you don't have a 5-speed chip you are really screwed as we don't have blow-off valves, and the auto chip doesn't know how to act!!! :| :cheers: :cheers:

 

What does any chip care about a BOV? There is no connection for the ECM to even care about the BOV. The BOV is a mechanical part...not electronic. The MAP sensor sees a vaccum in the intake when the throttle body closes...it could care less what is happening before the throttle body...just what is happening in the intake plenum.

 

My TGP did the same thing with and then without the auto-tranny. Turned out to be a a piece of carbon in the waste-gate butterfly that would not let the gate seal and allow full boost. The ECM sees the TPS at better than 50% and the MAP sensor sees no boost and then trims the fuel accordingly to try to recover. Thus getting the running motor, but not proper boost. Could also be a bad MAP sensor or it is not seeing boost or vaccum at all.

 

Jumping on the chip right away?? Doubtful...very doubtful! :roll:

 

You are going to learn the hard way like many of us have....these cars are extremely tempermental! Minor unseen cracks in the vacuum lines will completely throw these cars off. Slightly corroded electrical connections will throw these cars off. Putting 87-89 Octane in these cars will throw them off...trust me the list goes on!! :shock:

 

Our cars are OBD I not OBDII while some of the trouble codes may cross...many of them do not. My suggestion to you is to get a TGP Supplement manual from someone and your troubleshooting will become much easier.

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Okay, so here's what was done today. I went to the Parts store and talked to the guys there. A few of them are going to school to be mechanix and know what they are talking about. I bought and installed a CTS (I got a price last night and the guy said there are two of them 1 for the gauge and 1 for the ECM/Fans, then today they looked and only found one part. Anyone know what's w/ that?) It's right under the thermostat. I then fiddled w/ the MAP sensor, checked the connector, checked the vacuum line going into it. It looked good but the line diss. under the upper plenum, so I couldn't see it after that. I applied vacuum to it and it held, then applied pressure to it, and it held both w/o leaking. I rummaged through the boxes of parts in the trunk to see if the MAP from the red TGP was in there and it was. I hooked it up to see if it fixed it, it didn't but it's not a known good part either. I ordered one today from Advance Auto for $62. It will be in tomorrow, so if there is a problem w/ this part (such as the deal w/ plugs, must use GM parts that kind of thing) lemme know, because, "Once you install it, it's your's" The guy there thinks that w/ the bad MAP it still idled and ran, but since the ECM was unplugged it is having a hard time doing an idle re-learn w/o a properly func. map. What happens if I plug in a known good 1 bar MAP? Will it still run right at idle? (no boost, just vacuum) I have been wondering that. Thanks alot guys. You've been great help. Thanks for sticking w/ me.

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Oh boy...when you start to rely on Auto Parts Store "mechanics" to diagnose a TGP you might as well just give the car back!! I have been working on cars since I was 8 years old and when I got ahold of my TGP it was a whole new learning experience!

 

If you buy sensors or anything for your car...buy AC Delco or Genuine GM parts...anything else is shit and will fail real quick... 8)

 

There should be a warning sticker on TGPs like on a pack of cigarettes....if you are not a skilled mechanic DO NOT TOUCH!! :lol: :lol:

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Alright, although mine is an n/a I had a problem with my MAP. Where it disappears under the plenum, the line was pinched or something, so I must by-passed the old line. Just let it idle and take the MAP vacuum line off and put your finger on it, if it sucks in the line is good, if not, vacuum line. After I put the rockers in, I went to start it up (had battery off for a while) and it took like 10-15 seconds to start, and it turned out to be b/c of the bad vacuum line to the MAP. Like TGPilot said, its trying to relearn idle and provide proper fuel while not having a signal for how much fuel.

 

Robby

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Oh boy...when you start to rely on Auto Parts Store "mechanics" to diagnose a TGP you might as well just give the car back!!

Well, the guy has a pretty fast Turbo Supra, he know's his shit. I just want this damn car fixed. Hell I don't even want to drive it now, I just don't want to Fuck w/ it any more. I don't have the time.

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Oh boy...when you start to rely on Auto Parts Store "mechanics" to diagnose a TGP you might as well just give the car back!!

Well, the guy has a pretty fast Turbo Supra, he know's his shit. I just want this damn car fixed. Hell I don't even want to drive it now, I just don't want to Fuck w/ it any more. I don't have the time.

 

There is a big difference between say a Turbo Supra, or a Turbo Celica All-Trac, or a Typhoon/Syclone, or a Buick GN, and a Turbo Grand Prix...there is a very large market out there for bolt on performance parts for the cars mentioned before the TGP! Anyone can just drop in a performance chip, add an intercooler, put a short throw shifter in place to make you feel like you are really speeding along. Sure he may know a few things or is he just rambling off what he has read in magazines? Sorry in 20 years I have never met an Auto-Parts salesman who truely knows what he is talking about. If he did why is he behind a counter making minimum wage when he could be working for a dealer's garage or a pro-shop for $20/hour?

 

Just be careful what you allow people with no experience with a TGP tell you what to change! 8)

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Yeah, but aftermarket parts, and driveability are different animals. Sure someone can rattle off aftermarket parts, but if I'm trying to resolve a situation why would I care about what kind of boost controller he has. I'm just saying that he's good at diagnosing driveabitity. And I don't know about where you're from but here in IN you have two choices. Licoln Tech and IVY teck. One good one not so good. But all he did was confirm my suspicions when I went in there. I'm going to go pick up the part now and we will see what happens.

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