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Posted

my fiances grand prix has been sitting for a while and as long as shes had it its had a few quirks and shes never had them checked out and i figured the collective knowledge of w-body.com would know before anybody else. speedometer, tach, (possibly) oil pressure gauge are all doubled. reads about 40-50 psi oil pressure at idle even after about 5 minutes of warming up. what does this sound like? its a 3.1 auto, if that helps. and the SES light is on, probably the car thinking it has an unussualy high idle... battery is dead so i have to jump it with my monte every time it gets started. and she just told me the low fuel light is on all the time

Posted

40-50psi is high? I'm amazed my motor hasn't blown up then... I sit around 70 psi.. the ONLY time it ever drops low is when it needs an oil change and the motor's hot... I've got the 3.1 too. Different boat than you, my tach works. My temp gauge doesn't.

Posted

according to the repair manual it should have 15psi minimum so i assumed it would be 20-25 psi at max at idle.

i mean, hell my el camino with a ridiculously cammed 355 makes 65-70 psi hot at idle(bounces between 600-1100 RPM... gotta love holley spreadbore carbs...) but thats because i want it to(i was always told have 10 psi for every 1000 RPM you plan on running it to. ive never watched the guage when it was at 6500 but thats when it sounded like/felt like valve float, so i stop there).

Posted

40-50psi is high? I'm amazed my motor hasn't blown up then... I sit around 70 psi.. the ONLY time it ever drops low is when it needs an oil change and the motor's hot... I've got the 3.1 too. Different boat than you, my tach works. My temp gauge doesn't.

 

The oil pressure gauges on the cars are BS, don't use them to judge oil pressure. And who cares if the pressure is high? There's a reason why there's no red hash mark on the cluster. Anyway, the oil pump is driven off the cam. It can't possibly over-pressurize the system.

 

Anyway, mullet1, your cluster is shot. Replace it.

Posted

 

The oil pressure gauges on the cars are BS, don't use them to judge oil pressure. And who cares if the pressure is high? There's a reason why there's no red hash mark on the cluster. Anyway, the oil pump is driven off the cam. It can't possibly over-pressurize the system.

 

Anyway, mullet1, your cluster is shot. Replace it.

:werd: my oil pressure gauge maxes out at 80 all the time. I just ignore it.

 

 

Posted

40-50psi is high? I'm amazed my motor hasn't blown up then... I sit around 70 psi.. the ONLY time it ever drops low is when it needs an oil change and the motor's hot... I've got the 3.1 too. Different boat than you, my tach works. My temp gauge doesn't.

 

The oil pressure gauges on the cars are BS, don't use them to judge oil pressure. And who cares if the pressure is high? There's a reason why there's no red hash mark on the cluster. Anyway, the oil pump is driven off the cam. It can't possibly over-pressurize the system.

 

Anyway, mullet1, your cluster is shot. Replace it.

is that the only possible explaination or just really, really likely? voltmeter seems really accurate: 14 volts after it gets jumped. but the cluster has to get replaced as one piece, correct? any good sources where i could find one cheap... other than the J/Y?

Posted

40-50psi is high? I'm amazed my motor hasn't blown up then... I sit around 70 psi.. the ONLY time it ever drops low is when it needs an oil change and the motor's hot... I've got the 3.1 too. Different boat than you, my tach works. My temp gauge doesn't.

 

The oil pressure gauges on the cars are BS, don't use them to judge oil pressure. And who cares if the pressure is high? There's a reason why there's no red hash mark on the cluster. Anyway, the oil pump is driven off the cam. It can't possibly over-pressurize the system.

 

Anyway, mullet1, your cluster is shot. Replace it.

is that the only possible explaination or just really, really likely? voltmeter seems really accurate: 14 volts after it gets jumped. but the cluster has to get replaced as one piece, correct? any good sources where i could find one cheap... other than the J/Y?

 

Other than the JY? Ebay or on here.

 

Yeah, you will read the correct voltage, but it's the current that the cluster receives, and then produces the correct signal via the needle you see on your cluster.

 

Basically, you have no signal issues, it's just that your cluster fucked.

Posted

what years are interchangable? oldest one i can find on ebay right now is a 94? original one has oil pressure/tach/speedo/water temp/voltmeter/fuel level

Posted

what years are interchangable? oldest one i can find on ebay right now is a 94? original one has oil pressure/tach/speedo/water temp/voltmeter/fuel level

94 is OBD 1.5, it SHOULD work though, but i could be wrong.
Posted

just found some from 92-93... any problem with those working?

Posted

if i can put a ub3 in my 94 cutlass it should be able to be done. and you cant possible have too much oil pressure. the more the better :mrgreen:

New cluster should fix those problems

Posted

what years are interchangable? oldest one i can find on ebay right now is a 94? original one has oil pressure/tach/speedo/water temp/voltmeter/fuel level

94 is OBD 1.5, it SHOULD work though, but i could be wrong.

 

'94 is a completely new dashboard.

 

90-93 is directly interchangeable, 88-89 will work with minor harness modifications.

Posted

thats right. the cutlass didnt change till 95 but the GP changed to the more round and slim dash

  • 6 months later...
Posted

its been awhile but from what i understand the 90-93 gp clusters will work but what about other w cars are they the same or is this a gp specific part?

Posted

The answer to your problem probably has something to do with the car being 19 years old. Or can be found somewhere between fuck and all!

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