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Front Tire Wiggle


PCGUY112887

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I had the GP jacked up today to rotate my tires and replace an ABS wire, and I decided to try to wiggle my tires around to check for problems. On both front tires, if I hold the tire at 9 and 3 I can wiggle the entire tire about 1/2" total in both directions. The wiggle is the same direction the tires would turn.

 

Normal to have some movement or should I have 0 movement? I have noticed no suspension problems while driving.

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1/2 an inch is a LOT more than normal.

 

Tie-rods (inner or outer) are the most likely culprit, although particularly loose balljoints can mimic this as well.

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9 and 3 is tie rods and if you can wiggle it from the 12 and 6 postion it is balljoint usually. i just had the same issue on my Z. i replaced both inner and outer tie rods. and problem was solved. i had just replaced the balljoints not long ago as well. everything is nice and tight now.

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That does sound excessive, but one question. Were BOTH front wheels lifted at the same time when you tried this? If so then you were just moving the steering gear inside the rack. If this was the case, look at the steering wheel when you tug on the wheels, and you'll likely see it turning back and forth a bit.

 

If one front wheel is still FIRMLY on the ground, then yeah I'd agree it is likely one of the tie rod ends.

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I jacked the whole side of the car up with the jack position right behind the front tire, so when I did the drivers side the pass side was still on the ground. How "firmly" though I don't know.

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Speaking of tie rods, is an alignment absolutely necessary after they're done? The Bonneville needs the outer tie rods replaced and I'd rather try doing it myself if I can stay accurate. Any ideas? I don't want to fork over $80 for an alignment right now. Maybe my extended warranty will cover it?

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$80 for an alignment?? wtf They're like $40 here

 

Well, 4-wheel I'm assuming. $40 is still $40, or a little over half a tank of gas.

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I jacked the whole side of the car up with the jack position right behind the front tire, so when I did the drivers side the pass side was still on the ground. How "firmly" though I don't know.

 

I mentioned firmly because I was was thinking of the possibility that it could squirm a bit if there wasn't much weight holding it down. It just strikes me as odd that you'd see as much movement as you did, and not feel it when driving, especially when you say that BOTH wheels exhibit that movement. I'd expect with that much movement that car would feel as though it had a mind of its own!

 

If you're certain that you aren't forcing the rack to turn though (see if there is any steering wheel motion when you pull on the wheels), then you would likely have at least one bad tie rod end.

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I bet that you're moving the steering gear. Even with only 1 wheel jacked off the ground, I'm able to move the wheel enough to move the steering gear. If there is that kinda play, you would feel it while driving. An alignment is recommended, however, I have done it before without having an alignment done and have never had any issues. what i do measure from solid reference point ( i've used a pair a vise grips on the tie rod) and the center of the tie-rod end. Measure it before you take off the original one, and then thread the new one on until it is at the same distance. I did this on my cutlass and the car still drove straight as an arrow once I had replaced it.

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Speaking of tie rods, is an alignment absolutely necessary after they're done? The Bonneville needs the outer tie rods replaced and I'd rather try doing it myself if I can stay accurate. Any ideas? I don't want to fork over $80 for an alignment right now. Maybe my extended warranty will cover it?

 

just count the number of turns it takes till it comes off, and put the new one on the same number of turns. I've always done it that way and have NEVER paid for an alignment.

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Speaking of tie rods, is an alignment absolutely necessary after they're done? The Bonneville needs the outer tie rods replaced and I'd rather try doing it myself if I can stay accurate. Any ideas? I don't want to fork over $80 for an alignment right now. Maybe my extended warranty will cover it?

 

just count the number of turns it takes till it comes off, and put the new one on the same number of turns. I've always done it that way and have NEVER paid for an alignment.

 

Awesome. That's exactly what I wanted to hear.

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Alright, got it back from the shop today. They put my springs on, mounts, etc. It's great!

 

I had him look at the wheel movement. Apparently my drivers side ball joint was about to let go, it was barely hanging on. He replaced both lower ball joints in each side. He said they had been replaced once before since they were just bolted in.

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He said the boot around it had been shreaded and it looked like it had never been greased either...

 

I have no idea how I could not feel that while driving. OR with pulling on the tire! 12 and 6 had no play!

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  • 2 weeks later...

He said the boot around it had been shreaded and it looked like it had never been greased either...

 

I have no idea how I could not feel that while driving. OR with pulling on the tire! 12 and 6 had no play!

 

12 and 6 wont have play with a bad tie rod. only with a bad ball joint. 9 and 3 will.

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Well my ball joint was very bad! On the drivers side, the entire boot was gone, there was no grease in there either, it was just rusted metal on metal. On the other side, the boot around it was torn in half and there wasn't really any grease left.

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