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Posted

How much are you paying for a quart of RP? Where is the cheapest place to get it?

Posted

I paid like $4.xx a quart.

 

Must be freakin nice!!! The lowest I have ever seen it in Canada is $6.99/qt, and that was on sale. Usually it is $7.99 or $8.99 here

 

Jamie

Posted

I paid like $4.xx a quart.

 

Must be freakin nice!!! The lowest I have ever seen it in Canada is $6.99/qt, and that was on sale. Usually it is $7.99 or $8.99 here

 

Jamie

 

employee discounts rock!

 

if it wasnt for that I wouldnt work there! :lol:

Posted

I paid like $4.xx a quart.

 

Must be freakin nice!!! The lowest I have ever seen it in Canada is $6.99/qt, and that was on sale. Usually it is $7.99 or $8.99 here

 

Jamie

 

employee discounts rock!

 

if it wasnt for that I wouldnt work there! :lol:

 

Where do you work? O_o

 

Posted

I paid like $4.xx a quart.

 

Must be freakin nice!!! The lowest I have ever seen it in Canada is $6.99/qt, and that was on sale. Usually it is $7.99 or $8.99 here

 

Jamie

 

employee discounts rock!

 

if it wasnt for that I wouldnt work there! :lol:

 

Where do you work? O_o

 

 

napa.

Posted

I have yet to see it in a Candian Napa. Although Part Source recently started carrying it. This after years of people complaining to their head office about them not having it. I guess the problem there was the company that usually does their shipments refused to bring it over the boarder. Dunno why...

 

What is the cost without the employee discount?

 

Jamie

Posted

I paid like $4.xx a quart.

 

Must be freakin nice!!! The lowest I have ever seen it in Canada is $6.99/qt, and that was on sale. Usually it is $7.99 or $8.99 here

 

Jamie

 

employee discounts rock!

 

if it wasnt for that I wouldnt work there! :lol:

 

Where do you work? O_o

 

 

napa.

 

I applied to the local AutoZone earlier today just for giggles.

Posted

I have yet to see it in a Candian Napa. Although Part Source recently started carrying it. This after years of people complaining to their head office about them not having it. I guess the problem there was the company that usually does their shipments refused to bring it over the boarder. Dunno why...

 

What is the cost without the employee discount?

 

Jamie

 

 

I know down here, we CANNOT ship oil via UPS ( carrier we use ) it has to be shuttled from store to store. That could be one reason why its not up there. Its close to $8/qt.

Posted

5 bucks a quart at Advanced Auto

Posted

Must be nice to get it for 4.xx! Now the question becomes how many miles do you run it in your engine before you change it? 5000? 7000? 3000?

 

Thanks

Posted

The royal Purple website claims you can go 12,000 miles with a filter change about half way, and toping up as needed.

 

FWIW, The mobile1 oil I just bought (because I can't afford Royal Purple right now) has the same claim for distance. Its called Mobile1 Extended Life, and I got it on sale, lol

 

Jamie

Posted

I change it every 3,000miles still. When oil is black its dirty, and then it needs to be changed requardless of mileage.

 

 

Here, Mobile 1 is more expensive than RP.

Posted

Must be nice to get it for 4.xx! Now the question becomes how many miles do you run it in your engine before you change it? 5000? 7000? 3000?

 

Thanks

 

I'd stick with the MAX limits specified for your model year. The main issue is the contaminants that end up in oil through normal combustion. The acidity is bad for bearings, and wear surfaces. The oil may still have good lubrication properties left, but the acidity is bad for the engine.

 

Generally with GM it was 7,500 miles / 1x year with Normal driving (trips more than 5 miles, fully warmed up)

 

Severe service is 3,000 miles / change ea. 6mos. (short trips w/o full warm up, extreme winter driving (condensation an issue), dusty conditions, stop and go driving (higher internal engine temps)

 

Condensation will also lead to sludge, which conventional oils are more prone to and can clog passages or oil returns in the heads.

 

Later model (later 90's and onward) years ran much leaner, tighter cylinder tolerances and higher average combustion temperatures = less contamination in the oil.

 

A lot of cars with oil life computers factor in running time, driving conditions, engine loads and some makers even have oil conductivity sensors (clean oil = less conductive, dirty oil = more conductive) to determine oil life remaining.

 

My 2001 car has such a system, and I average 10,500-11,000 mile oil life. If I drove long distances all the time on freeways, it could in theory go up to 16,000-19,000 miles (only full syn oil can be used). A lot of makes now have backed off this long interval and go for a max interval of 13,000 under the best conditions.

Posted

I don't see much point in useing synthetics. I have used regular oil in all of my cars , usually castrol GTX , quaker state and sometimes motomaster formula one. My cutty had just under 400,000k when it was parked for good. All of it's life with regular oil and the oil still looks gold halfway through a change.

Posted

Must be nice to get it for 4.xx! Now the question becomes how many miles do you run it in your engine before you change it? 5000? 7000? 3000?

 

Thanks

 

I'd stick with the MAX limits specified for your model year. The main issue is the contaminants that end up in oil through normal combustion. The acidity is bad for bearings, and wear surfaces. The oil may still have good lubrication properties left, but the acidity is bad for the engine.

 

Generally with GM it was 7,500 miles / 1x year with Normal driving (trips more than 5 miles, fully warmed up)

 

Severe service is 3,000 miles / change ea. 6mos. (short trips w/o full warm up, extreme winter driving (condensation an issue), dusty conditions, stop and go driving (higher internal engine temps)

 

Condensation will also lead to sludge, which conventional oils are more prone to and can clog passages or oil returns in the heads.

 

Later model (later 90's and onward) years ran much leaner, tighter cylinder tolerances and higher average combustion temperatures = less contamination in the oil.

 

A lot of cars with oil life computers factor in running time, driving conditions, engine loads and some makers even have oil conductivity sensors (clean oil = less conductive, dirty oil = more conductive) to determine oil life remaining.

 

My 2001 car has such a system, and I average 10,500-11,000 mile oil life. If I drove long distances all the time on freeways, it could in theory go up to 16,000-19,000 miles (only full syn oil can be used). A lot of makes now have backed off this long interval and go for a max interval of 13,000 under the best conditions.

 

I change my oil abut every 3000-4000 miles regardless of what oil I use or how I drive. I changed it like that using normal oil and still have the habit running Royal Purple. It costs like hell but I figure its cheaper than a engine transplant due to some goofy problem that could be avoided by changing the oil often.

Posted

The longest I've gone without changing my oil on the regal was 4500 miles with fully synthetic, and after an oil change, I noticed the car would have a periodic rough idle while stopped, which I could feel in the brake pedal and steering wheel. Whether or not that's attributed to the oil change is beyond me. The problem did go away though after a good 2 rounds of seafoam.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

My 2007 Cobalt SS/SC takes synthetic and despite the warranty requiring Mobil 1, I've run Royal Purple through it a couple of times, just because I could. Sadly, I really couldn't see any difference in performance. The Lumina, however, gets Valvoline Max-Live 10W-40 all year long... that engine despite having almost 180,000 miles on it, still pulls the mountains here with a fury.

 

I guess if you're going to keep a car for years, synthetic is probably the way to go.

 

Posted

RP here is $6.50 a quart, and i change mine every 4500-5000.

 

..oh yeah, i use RP.

Posted

The longest I've gone without changing my oil on the regal was 4500 miles with fully synthetic, and after an oil change, I noticed the car would have a periodic rough idle while stopped, which I could feel in the brake pedal and steering wheel. Whether or not that's attributed to the oil change is beyond me.

 

I've experienced something very similar!

Posted

Another boutique oil thumping thread. :sahurr:

 

Honestly, nearly any decent synthetic oil is going to give you good protection against thermal/longevity breakdown and will do a fine job of removing/preventing sludgy buildup inside the engine. There's no reason on earth to pay $7 a quart for it.

Posted

The longest I've gone without changing my oil on the regal was 4500 miles with fully synthetic, and after an oil change, I noticed the car would have a periodic rough idle while stopped, which I could feel in the brake pedal and steering wheel. Whether or not that's attributed to the oil change is beyond me.

 

I've experienced something very similar!

 

So how'd you fix it? One oil change later and its still happening...

 

Maybe I should dump a canister of seafoam in the crank case before I change my oil...

Posted

Royal Purple is not designed for daily use. RP is an oil formulated for racing and therefor lacks the detergent pack to hold up for day to day driving. I dont get why people would put it in their daily drivers.

Posted

Royal Purple is not designed for daily use. RP is an oil formulated for racing and therefor lacks the detergent pack to hold up for day to day driving. I dont get why people would put it in their daily drivers.

 

yeah if your using their racing oils... which is even more expsensive...

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